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TR2/3/3A Another Steering Box Question

I've taken 3 off without a problem. They appeared untouched original boxes, though. I bet PO's have a tendency to over tighten the shaft nut. With 60 year old parts I always stay to the low end of the torque range, especially when the nut has a tab lock. It won't be coming off!

Bobby, if we're talking a full rebuild...you'll want to replace:

The upper worm shaft seal/packing.
The pitman seal at the bottom.
The pitman bushng (mentioned by others)
New peg (cheap, but often you can re-use the original by turning it)
Top cover gasket.

Remarkably, the front cover uses shims, not a gasket. I seal them with locktite 518 on both sides of the shims. It seals, does not harden, squeezes out so as not to add to the shim stack thickness, and any globs on the inside will resolve and not cause a problem.

Edit...and likely a new olive...
 
Remarkably, the front cover uses shims, not a gasket.
I believe there should be a gasket, P/N 60370 (although the SPC calls it a "washer, joint, between end cover and box"). A little sealant on the shims certainly won't hurt though.

I've never found a replacement olive that fits properly. Originals are only tapered on one side instead of both sides, and have a split to make them easier to remove (and also more prone to leak).
 
I believe there should be a gasket, P/N 60370 (although the SPC calls it a "washer, joint, between end cover and box"). A little sealant on the shims certainly won't hurt though.

I've never found a replacement olive that fits properly. Originals are only tapered on one side instead of both sides, and have a split to make them easier to remove (and also more prone to leak).

Maybe that was it...there is a gasket available, but I would never use a gasket on a shimmed joint. Just seems absurd when you think about it. I.e. Do I put a gasket between the cover and shim, the shim and the case, between every shim? Not to mention paper is not the most stable medium. I might consider it if I had a box that needed no shims, maybe...

I used the new single taper, split olive over 4 years ago and the box has not lost a drop. I. Did use a dab of sealant when I installed it.
 
I used the new single taper, split olive over 4 years ago and the box has not lost a drop. I. Did use a dab of sealant when I installed it.
And where did you find that ?? I've tried buying from both Moss & TRF, and what showed up was a common hardware store, double taper solid olive.
 
Ok John you were lucky 3 times and if you do 6 that would be 50%, maybe. John you probably have the correct Pitman arm puller judging from what I have seen of your work. Anyways, the last one I did I used the permatex gasket seal between everything. I did see a paper gasket before on some of them. Something to look for is the end piece is sometime warped and damaged. I guess the PO over tighten them up in hopes of sealing the end.
 
John if you find you have an upper column let me know how much you want for it. I was just at Harbor Freight this morning. Should have looked for the pitman arm puller. Before buying the pitman arm on ebay I attempted to remove one using a two jaw puller. Like Randall, they kept slipping off and when I was able to keep them on, they cocked. Anyway wasn't able to get the pitman arm off. Have two but only tried on one since I was having such poor results. While we're on the steering box subject, take a look at the attached picture. It was on the rigid column I installed and didn't notice it until I added oil. Of course it leaked, big time. Would anyone like to venture a guess as to how this lid got in this shape. I don't have a clue. DSCN1487.jpg
 
Wow! Is there similar damage all around, or just on that side? I still can't imagine what would do that. I don't think freeze damage would spread it that far; and I wouldn't think the adjusting screw would either (without substantial damage to the screwdriver slot anyway). Bad accident maybe? (Driver's chest against steering wheel) Still seems unlikely.
 
Randall, no other damage to the steering box at all. Probably a good guess on freeze damage. Water could have filled the box, frozen and lifted the top. But you're right, that's a long way for water expansion. It's distorted back to the two attaching screws. The adjusting screw is fine, no distortion of the threads and turns without difficulty. Just thought I'd throw it out there for everyone to see. It's obviously useless. Luckily I had other boxes with usable lids.
 
Interesting! If that was freeze damage I would be suspect of all the internals of that box.

I know I have an upper column. PM me with your address and I'll get it to you for the cost of postage.

The dangly type puller will never get a bite on the arm to remove it. The one I use has screws on the 2 jaws that clamp down tightly on the arm. It becomes a solid part of the pitman arm before you ever start the pulling operation.
 
That peg and shaft almost got away. I have seen some shafts that are bent, but that one took a real hit and I too would not use inners.
 
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