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Another Paint thread

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I wetsand with pure water keeping the paper and surface as clean and wet as possible. BTW, Many body shops are now color sanding with special dry sanders. Anyway, yes, you use blocks. You want to use the a semi rigid block and the longest one possible for a given area. There are many tricks and tips, but it is very hard to describe (or even think of them all). A local autopaint shop could recommend some sanding blocks and give you a few pointers and suggestions.

When colorsanding you can not focus on a "spot" you must treat the entire area as one unit and sand it the same amount in each direction (cross hatch type pattern).
 
Kim, there are a lot of resources on the web and at your local library. I know it seems intimidating, but wet sanding is easy. Just use a block when possible, and be careful around ridges and edges. I wouldn't go less than 1,000 unless you have some serious problem areas to fix. Work your way up, 2500 is practically printer paper.

Really, look online and at the library, and don't be scared to try. Unless you really gouge the paint, you can always fix it.
 
Kim, wetsanding a clear coat can help the mirror finish, it'll take out any imperfections/orange peel/waves in the clearcoat.
 
If the clear coat has not worn too thin, then yes. But you must be careful not to work down into the color.

I've sanded and buffed an 8 year old car and made it look better than new (IMO).
 
And from the video, from what I could see, it looked it.
 
Will it take out overspray? I was thinking of my truck that got overspray when I was spray canning the trunk of the midget with rustoleum. Sorry to be off topic, but I have kept that truck like new since I bought it. Would love to get that stuff off of it but I am scared to use sandpaper on it. I should just try one area. You are right I need to reserch this. I have used rubbing compound to remove oxidation from older cars, it must be kind of the same thing. It sounds like a lot of work getting the scratches back out. Maybe I should practice on my wife's car /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif
 
2000 and 2000+ wet sandpaper does not leave scratches, get a sheet and try it under the trunk or hood or what ever.
 
Yeah, 2000 and 2500 will just make the finish dull, no real discernable scratches. You're picturing 80 grit, not recommended! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

I'd think some 2000 should take off overspray. You'll have to polish it after.
 
Use lots of clean water to keep the paper clean.
 
I didn't use rubbing compound. I can't remember, I think I used 3M machine glaze. Worked great on the Sprite. Can't remember which #'s I used...3 and then 7?
 
think ill get some red and orange and mix up some custom colors!.....cant look any worse than the paint on it now.

that stuff looks kinda like Color Magic, that polish/paint stuff that was out years ago....
i really think rustoleum will last as long or longer than anything else, and obviously the touch up is easy too....
lookin good Baz, especially for 1 coat!....z
 
If the paint looks good for 3-4 years thats long enough for me /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Beaulieu
 
It is worth your time to rent a good variable speed buffer. 300-1200 rpm. Then of course you'll need some new clean buffing pads that are appropriate for the type of compound you are using (see the directions on the bottle). The retail 3M buffing/rubbing/polishing compound system would work for most people and most paint (again, see the directions).
 
Is their "Micro Pore" stuff still sold? That was a great product, IMO.
 
Dunno about the Micro Pore. However, if that was a retail line, then you can bet it is probably still around under a different name.

Generally, The Marketing Dept develops the retail product lines, and the R&D Dept develops the professional lines. And guess which one always has more "new" products?

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Haven't seen it retail. Our old supplier is 50 miles away and I think they "folded the tent" in any case. I'll 'sniff around' the supply houses here. This thread triggered the memory. We did a 300SL Gullwing in black a decade ago... that 3M stuff was the finishing touch and the result was georgeous.
 
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