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An Alternate Alternator?

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This is the Ford Fiesta Alt. that I was and still may put in my car if the Lucus happens to fail, The mounting looks very close to the original Alt.
but the shaft size is bigger, so I would have to try to match up the pulley and fan.

DSC01471.jpg

DSC01470.jpg



heres the Lucus:


alt.jpg
 
Remember you can order the alt. with the pulley from the web
 
I just did the Bosch unit. It was very simple. I reused the existing connector - pushed it out of the plastic housing (for now - will add an upgraded wire soon - any suggestions on size?)

These two sites were very helpful when figuring out which was which:

https://www.turbo-tr6.info/ford_alternator.htm

https://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/540-280.pdf

I did not use the Moss connector - don't know if it fits the Bosch.

Note: Mine is a '70 and the wiring was a little different than the sites above. The Dan Masters diagram shows that I should have a brown/red wire which for me was just brown. I hooked the small brown wire to the spade terminal above the large brown terminal and the brown/yellow to the small isolated spade terminal. Initially I had the small brown wire taped off and it did not charge.

-Lee
 
The original Lucas has 2 feet where it mounts to the engine with a few inch space between them for the mounting bracket on the engine, and then the big spacer goes in also. The Fiesta alternator has a solid foot 3-4 inches wide and will not bolt right on. The solid foot is the same width as the space between the lucas foot. I would like to see the mounting side of Kodjanas fiesta alternator as it is not shown in the pictures
 
Roofman- You might be looking at the wrong Fiesta alt. There are 2 different one. Make sure it is a Bosch.
 
Thanks for the photo Kodjana, that IS the same foot, but the ones I looked at apparantly were not Bosch. I did find at bumper to bumper auto parts a listing for 72 triumph TR6 which looks identical to mine but as you can see has a different wiring hook up.
P1040157.jpg

Mine on the right has 3 spades in the one area, with a single wire, and a jumper wire on the other hookup area. ( in the photo located in the 9 o'clock position) The one on the left has only the 3 large spades.No spades are where the single wire and jumper wire are located.( at the 12 o'clock position). Will this work?
 
I believe it will work, but ISTR you'll need to change the connections a bit. The small tab should be the brown/yellow to the dash indicator; the center tab should be a heavy brown (to the starter solenoid on a 72, I think); and the other large tab should be the brown/white to the ammeter.

Not sure, but I have a tech note that seems to indicate TRF sells the adapter as LUCYB400.
 
Anyone else with an opinion on TR3drivers wiring suggestion before I try it?
 
Thanks!!! How does the additional wire you added hookup, benifits of doing that etc.?
 
Well.. if everything goes well, you'll never need it, but if for some reason your battery gets substantially drained and you fire your car up, the new high amp alternator is going want to do what it does best: charge the battery as fast as it can. The stock wiring can't really hold that much amperage before melting, so I added that 8 gauge wire just in case of that very scenario. I just ran the wire along the wiring harness, inside the cockpit, and then out on the other side of the firewall down to the battery connection on the starter.

There's only one disadvantage really, my ammeter now only reads discharge, since I'm effectively bypassing it with the 8 gauge wire.

I've heard some people say that they don't add the second wire and just make sure that the battery is chargedbefore starting the car, but unfortunately, you can't always guarantee that you'll have a way to charge the battery before running the car.
 
Thanks to those who have helped. In reading the Moss chart, I have one odd colored wire.
I have a smaller diameter solid brown, a thick brown and white, and a thinner brown yellow.
According to the moss chart: I hook the brown yellow to the smaller terminal, and the thick brown white to either of the 2 wider terminals.
Ok so far.
But, it says to seal off the brown green, and black wire. I have neither color, only an extra solid brown thinner wire. Do I hook it to anything? Or seal it off? In the original hookup the smaller diameter solid brown wire went to the 2nd set of connectors which is now eliminated so........ I assume it gets sealed off?
 
Check your new alternator, to see if both big terminals are indeed directly connected to each other (as Moss says). If so, then you can leave the small brown tied off.

It was the 'sense' wire in the original configuration.
 
Update, I hooked the alternator up using the moss diagram, and leaving the brown solid color wire off, and seems to work fine. Showing charging on my guage with no flipping out wildly swinging needle. Kooks like I'm good to go.
Thanks guys.
 
DNK said:
A Saturn alternator looks like might be an option.

https://www.onefastmgb.com/alternatorupgrade.html
Click to expand...

In a previous life, I was a catalog specialist for a large alternator/starter rebuilder.

The Saturn Unit is a CS-series unit, and is subject to heat and bearing failure. I know these are common conversions, but I wanted to throw in the disadvantages to this particular unit. Our warranty rate was close to 1-in-4, and that was pretty standard in the biz for these units.

There is also a Hitachi option, and a Denso, in addition to the 10SI GM.

One final note - my old company put their products in a LOT of boxes - AutoZone's private label, pep Boys private label, advance's private label, in addition to Bosch branded boxes, Delphi, and AC Delco boxes (although in fairness the AC Delco boxed stuff had to be disassembled and then re-assembled by UAW workers before it was distributed)

My point - at more than 1 parts store, the "economy", "better" and "best" were the same part. FYI if anyones cares. If there's a yellow test tag zip-tied to all three choices, they came from the same shelf. (except AC Delco, of course)
 
Dang, that's some information worth knowing. Thanks for the inside poop.
 
I work for a large rebuilder, and what was said about the Delco CS alternator WAS true, but is no longer the case. The original CS's had undersized bearings and inadequate cooling which made them prone to failure. Delco quickly remedied the situation with larger bearings and a fan change. The later style CS is now a proven reliable unit. BTW, since there are ample cores of the later style around, I doubt that any rebuilder worth his salt would send out an early style CS.
 
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