An Alternate Alternator?

[eschneider]

I doubt that any rebuilder worth his salt would send out an early style CS.

The largest rebuilders absolutely, positively do not throw away any cores if they don't have to. You betcha the biggies are rebuilding the small bearing cores!!! (and putting them in Bosch and AC Delco boxes)

Yes, I agree with you 100% that any rebuilder worth their salt would machine all the housings for the larger bearings, use new stators, and consolidate the myriad of variations out there - but AutoZone, Pep Boys, and Advance began using their purchase power to set their own prices and the manufacturers responded accordingly.

...what was said about the Delco CS alternator WAS true, but is no longer the case. The original CS's had undersized bearings and inadequate cooling which made them prone to failure. Delco quickly remedied the situation with larger bearings and a fan change. The later style CS is now a proven reliable unit.

Absolutely, the CS130D/CS144D have better bearings and a much improved cooling system. Even the CS144's had larger bearings, and some of the late CS130's did too.

But the Saturn unit - at least the first generation, and I'm pretty sure the second generation - did in fact use the smaller drive end bearing. It certainly didn't have the CS130D series internal fan.

I didn't mention this before, but CS units are VERY sensitive to pulley nut torque. Anyone who does use this unit should make sure to properly torque the pulley nut to 90 lb-ft.

With respect, I am responding to communicate that, whether I'm right or wrong, there were OE issues with these units. Some rebuilders address these issues, others don't. For those who would prefer a Hitachi or Denso alternative, they do exist.

Again, my deepest respect for everyone's contributions here. I'm just throwing in my $0.02, and happily acknowledge that not all rebuilt CS alternators are bad.

 

[Guest]

Interestingly, I installed AutoZone's best new alternator in my TR6 as a conversion (Delco-style 7127) and after a while I decided to bring it in to an alternator repair shop to have it checked out. The only improvement that they said they needed to do was change the bearings (Chinese) to a high-quality US-made set. All the other components they claim were of a good quality. I have no idea who builds AutoZone's units for them but the thing cranks out 71 amps, not the stated 66. Seems to work good so far. I made sure that all wiring was ultra-duty, like the big wire to the battery is 8-gauge and very well insulated. I went with an aftermarket positive connector on my battery where everything is spliced with giant crimp connectors (the kind that require a hammer-activated guillotine tool) and then soldered and triple shrink wrap insulated. (Now, THAT was a trick)

 

[eschneider]

Interestingly, I installed AutoZone's best new alternator in my TR6 as a conversion (Delco-style 7127) and after a while I decided to bring it in to an alternator repair shop to have it checked out. The only improvement that they said they needed to do was change the bearings (Chinese) to a high-quality US-made set. All the other components they claim were of a good quality. I have no idea who builds AutoZone's units for them but the thing cranks out 71 amps, not the stated 66.

Yep, the 7127-xx is a "10SI" unit, which are reliable, cheap, and plentiful. AutoZone should carry a 1-wire version (not sure if their countermen know where to find it) and also a chrome unit. For those with a bumpin' stereo, there are also 78 and 94A variations ("12SI"), just as plentiful, reliable, and economical, with the same outer dimensions.

Converting these to a 1-wire is easy, as well....

 

[TR3driver]

For those with a bumpin' stereo, there are also 78 and 94A variations ("12SI"), just as plentiful, reliable, and economical, with the same outer dimensions.

The 12Si that came on my Chevy as part of the "heavy duty electrical" option was slightly larger than the standard 10Si. The difference became obvious when changing alternators as the 10Si would just barely slip between the engine & frame, while the 12Si required taking a motor mount loose and prying the engine just a bit farther away. As I recall it was a bit farther between mounting tabs as well, but I was able to use the same adjustable link when I converted back to the 10Si.

 

[martx-5]

eschneider is correct when he says that the 12SI is dimensionally exactly the same as the 10SI. The only obvious difference is the plastic turbo type fan on the front. There are internal differences, but they do not affect the outside dimensions. The larger unit you are talking about is most likely a 15SI. They look the same, but are physically larger.

Also, I'd stay away from the one wire 10SI. Besides being harder to find in a loca parts store, they come with several distinct disadvantages. One of them is price. It's no big deal to hook up the other two wires...in most cases, they are already in the car.

This site will explain the differences.

 

[DNK]

Who has put 1 on a TR8?

 

[Guest]

Great site. Exactly the reasons I went with a three-wire even though the salesman tried to get me to buy a 1-wire unit.

 

[TR3driver]

The larger unit you are talking about is most likely a 15SI. They look the same, but are physically larger.

Yup, my bad. It was a 15Si. Sorry, eschneider.

 

[eschneider]

Yup, my bad. It was a 15Si. Sorry, eschneider.

No offense taken. The point of the discussion is alternatives to our stock Lucas bits..... Thanks for your consideration, though.