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Alloy Valve Cover Oil Baffel

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R

richards

Jedi Hopeful
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Two much oil going out of my TR6 Alloy Valve Cover vent tube to the carbs.
Has any one ever "made" a baffel and attached it to the inside of one of these Alloy Valve Covers.
I know about the Oil Separator that Good Parts sells, but I am not ready to take off the oil pan on a car that does NOT leak.
I do have the external oil line that feeds additional oil to the rocker assembly.


I am open to other ideas...

Thank you,
Richard
1974 TR6
 
Hi Richards, Another Idea is to locate a small oil separator in series with the hose going to the carb. The early Volvo P1800 cars used this technique.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
I had a long post about this same exact issue on my 74 TR6. I ended up removing the oil line and installing the original valve cover after chrome plating it. Oil consumption issues went away.

How about installing one of the old style round PCV valves in line, just outside the valve cover?

This is just some of the oil that was in my original intake as it sat on the bench when I installed my triple carbs.
 
I run the aux oil feed line with the original cover. I use a silicone valve cover gasket and Goodparts oil separator with their PCV valve. I also have Goodparts valve guides with their valve guide seals. On the valve cover studs I use the rubber seals for the Spitfire engines. I have had the valve cover off a couple of times to re-torque the head and adjust the valves with no attention given to the gasket except to wipe the mating surface on the head.

The result for me is that I have had no leaks or oil consumption in 2,500 miles.

If an electric fuel pump is used the Goodparts oil separator can drain through the fuel pump blocking plate. Since I use an Italian BCD Torino mechanical pump mine drains into the pan.
 
This is a good question - hasn't someone figured out a baffle of some kind? There must be a zillion of these alloy covers out there in use.....
 
The problem with welding or bolting (never an option!) any type of baffle plate is the limited amount of clearance between the rockers and the cover. With the extra thick alloy cover, the baffle would have to be very thin.

The auxiliary line just adds to the problem as shown in the picture above. The other intake port had mucho oil in it as well.
 
Brosky said:
The problem with welding or bolting (never an option!) any type of baffle plate is the limited amount of clearance between the rockers and the cover. With the extra thick alloy cover, the baffle would have to be very thin.

The auxiliary line just adds to the problem as shown in the picture above. The other intake port had mucho oil in it as well.
Click to expand...

Good point Paul, yet still, you would have thought either the manufacturer, or one of us would have figured something out.
 
TR6BILL said:
I use the Goodparts oil separator with success.
Click to expand...

I looked up the Goodparts separator Bill, not a really attractive item, either cosmetically, or mechanically.
 
tomshobby said:
I agree with you Ned, it is not a raving beauty. But I also agree with Bill, it does work!
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom. Ok, well I could probably bury it somewhere, paint it black, and explain to folks its a Lucas frizalator.
But I don't want to chop a hole in the pan, nor do I run an electric fuel pump. Any other ideas on how to drain the sucker.

This seems so preposterous to me, but I agree with all the comments about excess oil consumption, and nowhere is this mentioned by Moss, TRF, or others selling these nice covers.
I love mine, but I sure don't want the oil issue either.
 
How about plumbing it right back thru the external oil feed.
 
bunzil said:
Brosky said:
The problem with welding or bolting (never an option!) any type of baffle plate is the limited amount of clearance between the rockers and the cover. With the extra thick alloy cover, the baffle would have to be very thin.

The auxiliary line just adds to the problem as shown in the picture above. The other intake port had mucho oil in it as well.
Click to expand...

Good point Paul, yet still, you would have thought either the manufacturer, or one of us would have figured something out.
Click to expand...





I welded a 1/8" x 1 1/2" aluminum plate up against the inside of the cover (vent hole side), I angled it out slightly at the top of the cover about 1/2". It runs the length of the valve cover except I stoped short at each end about 1/2", this allows the gases to pass around the ends and then on the inside of the baffle and out the vent hole. It worked beyond what I had hoped for---no more oil out the tube and I run an Aux. oil line. The rockers (Goodpart rollers) are very close but do not hit. sorry no pictures but if you need more description I can give it.
 
Why do alloy covers have the breather but stock ones do not?
 
I made my own oil separator using a Greddy oil catch tank. I didn't have to cut a hole in my oil pan.. but I will have to empty it once a year or so.

Kinda hard to see, but it's mounted above the passenger foot well.

normal_2007-08-26%20-%20TR6%20Engine%20Pics%20006.jpg
 
DNK said:
How about plumbing it right back thru the external oil feed.
Click to expand...
Uhm maybe because the external oil feed is at 60psi? those drips of oil from the separator wont exactly join the flow!
 
Allan,

That is the ideal fix, if you are capable of the aluminum welding. Due to the weld heat requirements, I would think that some may have issues with the finish on the outside of the cover. Did you have any problems with the outer finish?
 
eejay56 said:
Why do alloy covers have the breather but stock ones do not?
Click to expand...

Stock TR6 covers do have breathers, they also have a rudimentary filter/baffle set up inside the valve cover. The alloy covers just have a straight tube with no baffle/filter.
 
Brosky said:
Allan,

That is the ideal fix, if you are capable of the aluminum welding. Due to the weld heat requirements, I would think that some may have issues with the finish on the outside of the cover. Did you have any problems with the outer finish?
Click to expand...



A friend of mine welded it, mig or tig I cant remember which, and no problems with the finish, you cant tell from the outside.-----After rechecking my cover--the plate that I used was 1 1/2" and I left the ends open 1/2", I angled the baffle out to where it rested against the large round casting supports for the mounting bolt holes.
 
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