TR2/3/3A Alloy Radiator TR-3B

[deadair]

Aloha,

The original TR3A generator amperage output depend upon the specific model generator, but they are between 19 and 22 Amps. Here is a table determine the max amperage of your generator:

Thanks Dave, that helps alot.

Does anyone know how many amps are generally required by the ignition system?

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

I currently use a 10" diameter fan that is rated at 500 CFM as an auxiliary cooling fan for use in stop and go traffic. It is mounted in a pusher configuration. Even with this small fan I had to modify the front apron in front of the radiator to accommodate the fan. Larger fans may not fit. I also have replaced the stock metal four blade fan with a modified flexi-blade polymer fan with six blades. I bought it at NAPA and had to decrease the overall diameter to 13" and make a spacer to move it slightly forward to clear the cross tube. I rarely need to use the electric fan. I also have the fiberboard radiator duct in place which helps direct most of the air entering the grille through the radiator.

The radiator and fan are just a few components in the engine cooling system and focusing on them alone may not solve the problem. An older radiator may hold coolant at operating pressure without leaking, but if the cooling fins are not in contact with the radiator tubes there will be poor cooling. Sediment and scale in the radiator can also cause poor thermal performance. Often over looked is sediment in the engine block were it tends to collect in the bottom of the block at the rear of the engine.

Water pump and hose problems are less frequently a source for problems but can not be neglected.

 

[TR3driver]

I believe that those fans are meant to be accessory fans and not primary fans.

According to the Hayden 2003 application catalog, the 800 cfm 12" fan is suitable for primary cooling to 2.0 liters. They recommend their 14" fan as minimum primary cooling for 2.2 liters (and oddly enough have no recommendation for motors between 2.0 and 2.2).

I'd have to check to be sure, but I think I had the 14" Hayden on my 59 TR3A with 87mm liners, and it worked quite well for me. The edges of the fan housing do hang off to the sides a bit, but air leakage is minimal. I also had it mounted as a puller, since logic and my own experiments seem to indicate that 'pusher' fans do interfere with cooling at speed.

None of these fans move enough air to cool the engine at full output for very long; fortunately the car's motion through the air does that. One of the big advantages of an electric fan is that it can be turned off when not needed (which is most of the time).

 

[TR3driver]

Here is a table determine the max amperage of your generator:

Worth noting, perhaps, that although that table does describe the ability of the generator; the primitive 2-bobbin control box found on the TR2-4A will let the battery discharge somewhat before the current reaches the maximum.

The problem is that it really regulates the sum of current and voltage, rather than controlling them separately as a 3-bobbin control box does. (Dave's table is actually taken from a service manual for the 3-bobbin unit). The net effect is that you will see a discharge on the ammeter, before the total load reaches the capacity of the generator (and a slight charge all the time when the load is light).

The ignition only draws around 2 amps with the engine running, but don't forget the other loads like wipers, heater, lights, etc.

 

[deadair]

If you take a look at my pics above, there is a pic with my thumb in it....just below my thumb is the threaded port for the coolant temperature sensor.

I just received my radiator from TRF and it is also a Wizard. However, it doesn't have the threaded port for the temperature sensor. :frown:

Nice radiator, but REALLY easy to dent. I'm going to cover both surfaces with cardboard during the installation.

 

[ReadT]

Not a TR, but somewhat applicable:

I run an aluminum radiator and 2 FAL puller efans (each flows ~2000cfm) on my daily driven/AutoX nissan 240. I was having overheating problems with the stock engine driven fan and radiator, but the aluminum rad and efans keep my engine running nice and cool -even at AX events. Throttle response also feels a bit better to me.

-RT

 

[deadair]

Not a TR, but somewhat applicable:

I run an aluminum radiator and 2 FAL puller efans (each flows ~2000cfm) on my daily driven/AutoX nissan 240. I was having overheating problems with the stock engine driven fan and radiator, but the aluminum rad and efans keep my engine running nice and cool -even at AX events. Throttle response also feels a bit better to me.

-RT

That's good news. I'm hoping that the radiator, combined with an electric fan and six-bladed water pump and new housing, will put my TR3 back on the road.