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TR2/3/3A Alloy Radiator TR-3B

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V

Vaark01

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Hi,

I saw a car (hot rod) with an alloy radiator and thought it looked great. Does anyone have any experinece or thoughts on an alloy radiator in a TR-3B?

Thanks,

Paul
 
I just ordered one for my TR-3A, which has serious overheating problems. I'm hoping that the radiator, combined with an electric fan, will fix my woes.

I restored the car from the ground up about 20 years ago and haven't driven it much because of the overheating problems. I'm finally cycling back to this project and hope to get it running well without too much effort. However, I might end up tearing down the engine again to see if I missed something during my initial rebuild.
 
Hi Paul,

I purchased A Wizard aluminum rad complete with a SPAL fan mounted and a fan eliminator kit for my 3A restoration. It is a drop in rad that utilizes the stock mounting locations.

If you want some pics, let me know.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Here are some pics

img_0308.jpg


img_0309.jpg


img_0312.jpg


img_0315.jpg


Price was 645.00 with the fan mounted/fan wiring and relay kit/fan eliminator. Purchased from Art Lipp.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Pied,

Radiator looks great. I searched today and noticed Wizard and TRF had
them. Do you mind if I ask why you chose Wizard over TRF.

Do you like your radiator? Is the fan necessary?

Thanks,

Paul
 
Hi Paul,

I chose Wizard as I have a TR6 as well with a Wizard Rad installed and it works great.

I don't have my 3 on the road as of yet as it is undergoing a frame off restoration.

I don't think that the e fan is necessary if your car has been well maintained...however, with the fan eliminator, it will lose some weight off the front of the engine and that will be a good thing.

I am pretty confident based on what I have seen on here and what I have seen in person that this will be a good set up for me.

Cheers,
M.Pied Lourd
 
Hi Dead,

It is my understading after doing some reasearch, that puller fans are more efficient than pusher fans (up to about 20% more efficient).

Having said that, I think some guys with pusher fans also keep their stock belt driven fans operating....I am not sure what effect this would have on the number above....

As indicated above, since I am going with the puller fan, I am eliminating the stock fan/snout and going with a fan eliminator kit from Rick Patton.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Unless I'm missing something, the fan eliminator kit looks like an expensive washer. Seems that one could be easily made from a piece of stock aluminum.
 
just remember that not all fans of equal size are the same. Look at the cfm rating. They vary from about 1500 cfm to 3600 cfm. That is a BIG difference in air movement and amperage that they will draw. (In my mind, bigger is better because it just turns off when cooled down).
Rob
 
I'm going with a Hayden 12" Model 3680, which is the one recommended by Moss for the TR3.

Here are the stats:

CFM: 800
CFM across a typical radiator: 675
AMPS: 8.8
 
that's not much air.
That's how much a CARB sucks in on a mild big block v8 or a fairly hot small block. A waste of money IMHO. (i don't take any supplier's advise because their purpose is to sell stuff-no matter if it works or not- at a price they can make money at).
Rob
 
Dead,

I am no expert, but you should be looking for something in the 1400-1600 cfm range for the TR3.

I believe that my SPAL fan is around 1450 cfm.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
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