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Alignment questing after suspension work

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Rod,
it looks like you have an issue with the axle housing shifting. You need to put it on a lift, loosen the mounting bolts that hold the axles to the springs and center that sucker! Once you get the rear end centered you need to check the bushings, shocks, springs, etc. to make sure you don't have other issues.
Rut
 
Rut said:
Rod,
it looks like you have an issue with the axle housing shifting. You need to put it on a lift, loosen the mounting bolts that hold the axles to the springs and center that sucker! Once you get the rear end centered you need to check the bushings, shocks, springs, etc. to make sure you don't have other issues.
Rut
Click to expand...
These look like the 4 bolts that secure the spring to the chaise. Are there any others that I need to loosen? besides the ones on the other side
Thanks
Sim
 

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My BE axle was apparently not centered from the factory. Seems like those 4 bolts are not the only thing that holds it but, yes those have to be loosened. I currently am getting some torque steer and noticed my upper link bushings are going away.

Kurt.
 
Rod,
you have a Bugeye and I was thinking 1/2 elliptical springs. The bolts that hold the springs to the spring hangers need to be tight and the springs need to be straight. If the rear bushings are in bad shape they need to be replaced as well and good shocks will help. All of this needs to be corrected before you align your front end to make sure it is tracking straight.
Rut
 
AXend.jpgaxend1.jpg
Rut said:
Rod,
you have a Bugeye and I was thinking 1/2 elliptical springs. The bolts that hold the springs to the spring hangers need to be tight and the springs need to be straight. If the rear bushings are in bad shape they need to be replaced as well and good shocks will help. All of this needs to be corrected before you align your front end to make sure it is tracking straight.
Rut
Click to expand...
I did replace the bushing on the radius Arms. Were the bushing you were referring too? .The mounting plate for the spring is square. So it might just be the dampers. With the car on the lift a straight edge on the right side is now fine. On the left there is 1/16 toe in.
Thanks
rod
 
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Damp1.jpgdamp2.jpgPulled the right damper off.Still seems to be in very good working order. Bushings are solid No side play Still hard to move the lever Any ideas?
 
A set of Peter C's best front and rear. That's the best idea.
 
There is a bushing in the end of the spring, called a silantblock. As I remember it is two metal tubes sealed one in side the other with like a quarter inch of rubber. Are these good, Are the Bolts that hold them to the axle un damaged as well.

Gona have to remove wheel and take things apart, I can not beleive the four bolts on the front pad have moved, they are welded in the car body at the factory.
 
jlaird said:
There is a bushing in the end of the spring, called a silantblock. As I remember it is two metal tubes sealed one in side the other with like a quarter inch of rubber. Are these good, Are the Bolts that hold them to the axle un damaged as well.

Gona have to remove wheel and take things apart, I can not beleive the four bolts on the front pad have moved, they are welded in the car body at the factory.
Click to expand...
I have checked and they seem ok. Used a floor jack and a lenight of wood. placed wood on floor jack and under end of spring. As the jack was moved up, everything moved at one time. I also tried to push and pull the spring left and right. No play
I did have the wheel on the right side off to replace all 4 lug bolts. I am certain I got them all seated properly. The Alex bearing was nice and smooth
 
I doubt that things are out of line enough to worry about but if you want to investigate further and can get the car up on a hoist, try measuring diagonally to good reference points at the front and back. Then just front to back and you may find more.

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
I doubt that things are out of line enough to worry about but if you want to investigate further and can get the car up on a hoist, try measuring diagonally to good reference points at the front and back. Then just front to back and you may find more.

Kurt.
Click to expand...
Thanks will do that
Rod
 
If you would like to find the center of car in relationship to your differential there is a very simple way. If you’re familiar with under tray of the car there is a stiffener roll that tapers to a point on the rear edge of the center of floor panel. Take a Plum Bob hold it up to the tip of the roll edge. You will find that the top stud in the differential will align center of the tip of the Plum Bob when centered to the tip of rolled edged. If not you can make your adjustments according.
 
Now that is a slick tip.
 
Ok I have it back on the road. Waiting for standard springs to come. The 340 don't seem all that bad. Not sure if it is still crabbing down the road. However the left side is the side that is toed in the same amount the right side was. The right side is like the left side was. about the only bad bushing is on the link the connect the damper arm to the lower part.
 
Well, all good. Now if we going to get into right and left turns lets talk tire temperature. In the best world all should be equal when you come off the track and off course it changes every time you go out. Oh, you do have a temp guage for tires? LOL

To change the temp you change the tire pressure. Years of setting up stock cars, just had to get it out, sorry.
 
I just replaced the radius arms with adjustable ones. In doing so I noticed a lot of play in the old [FONT=Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]BUSH, silentbloc. Just ordered 2 today. Can these be installed with out removing the spring?[/FONT]
 
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