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Alignment questing after suspension work

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You can get the old sleeves out by carefully cutting the sleeve with a hacksaw. DO NOT cut into the spring! Once thats done the old sleeve will come out fairly easy but to put the new silent block in while the springs are still on the car I would bet you will have to make up something with a bolt thru the middle and shims and washer's to pull the new silentblock into the spring eye.

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
You can get the old sleeves out by carefully cutting the sleeve with a hacksaw. DO NOT cut into the spring! Once thats done the old sleeve will come out fairly easy but to put the new silent block in while the springs are still on the car I would bet you will have to make up something with a bolt thru the middle and shims and washer's to pull the new silentblock into the spring eye.

Kurt.
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Thanks I was thinking this tool for spiting chainsaw cases may work. the hack saw is a great idea. But the through bolt should do it.
thanks
rod
 

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You'll probably ruin that precision tool not heavy enough for the job. And I did bit read beginning if this thread but I think was about suspension bushings. Heat and cutting is the only way to easily remove. Cutting wheel on angle grinder or Dremel and cut in half. Thus stuff metal on metal bushings is always too rusty to press or pound apart.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
You'll probably ruin that precision tool not heavy enough for the job. And I did bit read beginning if this thread but I think was about suspension bushings. Heat and cutting is the only way to easily remove. Cutting wheel on angle grinder or Dremel and cut in half. Thus stuff metal on metal bushings is always too rusty to press or pound apart.
Click to expand...
Thanks i think a long through bolt with washers will wor as a good on the car press. Will let you know how it goes
Rod
 
Jim, if the old bush is shot getting the old rubber out often isn't too tough. If you can get the rubber out of the bush then put the hacksaw blade thru the eye and saw thru the old outer sleeve I've always been able to get them out. If the old rubber is still in the bush then things get a little more complicated.
Kurt
 
nomad said:
Jim, if the old bush is shot getting the old rubber out often isn't too tough. If you can get the rubber out of the bush then put the hacksaw blade thru the eye and saw thru the old outer sleeve I've always been able to get them out. If the old rubber is still in the bush then things get a little more complicated.
Kurt
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I think I can get the center out with out any problems. they are only 54 years old. If they are a problem , then Oxe Acetylene cutting torch works wonders.
 
SB1.jpgSB2.jpgSB3.jpgSB4.jpgInstalled new leaf spring bushing and replaced 340 fast road springs with standard. now the standard dampers are happy. standard springs changed alignment again
Rear axle is now a little toe in on each side. Is this the way they should be?
Thanks
Rod
 
So how does it drive. That's the important question.
 
The ride is smoother but I do not think i have the alignment just right. After i get the sway bar on , I will take it to a shop for alignment. Steering still seems a little off
 
Rod you need to replace shocks as well. Didn't you say the bushing or msomething on one was shot? That will finish the job.
 
Hi
No the front shock did not have any side to side play. They seem to be working fine with the standard springs. the rear may be another matter.
By next Friday I should have the standard sway bar installed. Will see what happens then
Thanks
rod
 
Just keep refining and tweaking. It just gets better and better as the worn out parts get replaced. On Bugsy I my '68 Sprite had an issue where I would go into a hard right turn, car turning great and all of a sudden I'd get a shift and could fel rear end want to come around. Got into replacing rear spring bushings and had to remove front spring mounts out. Unbolted to discover that DPO had used bolts that were too small on the front spring mount and there was a 3/4" V shaped groove worn in the front spring plate on the DS and smaller groove on right spring plate.

As as I went into a hard turn the entire axle was rotating moving as much as 3/4" on one side. TAlk about causing strange handling issues. New spring mounting plates were not welded correctly and took done work with angle grinder to get them to fit in place.

Afain in just going through and making sure all is tight, make sure rear axle U bolts are super tight as well. The difference when you take the time to do it right and the result is point and go handling and most importantly FUN!
 
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