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Hi everyone, As I posted some time back, I was having issues with door gaps when the car was raised and lowered. We had the usual rust behind the doors - rocker, quarter panels and small hole through the outter sill. I purchased some replacement shut panels and things are not lining up as before. After some minimal test holding with rivets and clamps, it seems the to new panel is a little further out and setting at slightly different angle to get the rear fender to line up. This make issues with the door latch pin. The old panels are at 70 degrees and these slop a little further back. We have only worked on the right side for now. Are there different panels available for 100's #223599 and earlier or after? Not finding much choice on vendors. thanks, again folks
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AH100-4 shut panel replacement
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Richard Dickinson
Jedi Trainee
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When I replaced mine I only cut out the rusted part at the bottom and cut a section out of a new panel and welded it in. This kept the original alignment and saved a lot of headaches. You might consider this on the other side.
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Hi Norm,
My body needed major reconstruction so I knew I was going to be doing alot of metal shaping and fitting. Since I replaced my inner sills, rockers,floors and toe boxes as well as my shut pillars I took this approach, The body's hinge pillars, and scuttle and front shroud were my constants. They had never been moved. I new that the hinge pillars were not moved and I did not move them so I used them as my reference. I hung the doors on the hinge pillars with the gap to the front fender that I believe appropriate, and built the rest of the body around the fact that the front shroud, the hinge pillars, the front fenders and the doors where not going to be moved. With the doors location fixed and lining up with a respectable alignment to the top, forward leading point on the rear shroud, I then placed the rocker panel to give a good gap to the door. You may have to trim the rocker panel to place itself on the lower edge of the inner sill. Or you may have to add material to the bottom edge of the rocker panel to make it look good. Then I placed the shut pillar to match the angle/rear edge of the door. And to set my gap at what I wanted it to be. You could constantly fiddle with these angles and gaps in order to get the best gaps out of each piece but I believe this will result in compromising the gaps to achieve something near acceptable. Since my hinge post and door was going to be fixed and hadn't moved since before the start of the reconstruction I chose to reshape any piece that would not give me the gaps I wanted.
My body needed major reconstruction so I knew I was going to be doing alot of metal shaping and fitting. Since I replaced my inner sills, rockers,floors and toe boxes as well as my shut pillars I took this approach, The body's hinge pillars, and scuttle and front shroud were my constants. They had never been moved. I new that the hinge pillars were not moved and I did not move them so I used them as my reference. I hung the doors on the hinge pillars with the gap to the front fender that I believe appropriate, and built the rest of the body around the fact that the front shroud, the hinge pillars, the front fenders and the doors where not going to be moved. With the doors location fixed and lining up with a respectable alignment to the top, forward leading point on the rear shroud, I then placed the rocker panel to give a good gap to the door. You may have to trim the rocker panel to place itself on the lower edge of the inner sill. Or you may have to add material to the bottom edge of the rocker panel to make it look good. Then I placed the shut pillar to match the angle/rear edge of the door. And to set my gap at what I wanted it to be. You could constantly fiddle with these angles and gaps in order to get the best gaps out of each piece but I believe this will result in compromising the gaps to achieve something near acceptable. Since my hinge post and door was going to be fixed and hadn't moved since before the start of the reconstruction I chose to reshape any piece that would not give me the gaps I wanted.
AH100M
Jedi Trainee
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vette-
Perfect description of the process. But it must be done WITH THE ENGINE, GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL IN THE CAR, F&R SUSPENSION MOUNTED, CAR ON ITS WHEELS ON THE GROUND. Otherwise all the work will be for naught. 100 thou chassis flexes really add up when it comes to body gaps.
Perfect description of the process. But it must be done WITH THE ENGINE, GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL IN THE CAR, F&R SUSPENSION MOUNTED, CAR ON ITS WHEELS ON THE GROUND. Otherwise all the work will be for naught. 100 thou chassis flexes really add up when it comes to body gaps.
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Yep i agree with you Bill. I delibritely left the engine, trans, rear end in as well as the front suspension. One difference is that after trussing up the vehicle with copious cross and longitudinal bracing and taking diagonal measurements on the ground, I then put the car on large truck rated jack stands an ensured that my measurements where unchanged before I cut anything apart.
Dave.
Dave.