After market rear tube shocks

[AUSMHLY]

Interesting what people have done to their Healeys.
Here is a photo of a guy who added a pair of tube shocks to compliment the rear leaf springs.

 

[GregW]

Looks like the Cape International kit .

 

[Randy Forbes]

Those are more common than you think; I've seen them fitted to several cars in the past.

Lever-arm shocks, as good as they may be (?) don't have the instantaneous (change of direction) dampening that a good tube shock has.

I made up a set of brackets for my car some twenty years ago, copied from the ones on a buddy's BJ8. His were Konis, and I still have the contracted/extended length on file, but I'd love to know what the part numbers were so I could get some. My shocks are just some auto-parts store gas-charged specials.

Here's the front upper mount, shown without the shock, during coating of the wheelwell:

 

[GregW]

Maybe a call to Koni will get what you’re looking for. Ironically their website has a photo of a bunch of Healeys.
Koni classic

 

[Lin]

Hi Roger,
I used the Bilstein shocks and the kit provided by Udo Putzke. I have only had my car around the block 3-4 times so it is too early to judge the performance. My initial read is positive. The kit was high quality and uncomplicated.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

 

[Randy Forbes]

Maybe a call to Koni will get what you’re looking for. Ironically their website has a photo of a bunch of Healeys.
Koni classic

Thanks for the link.

After a quick look, they don't specifically list a Big Healey, but I'm sure I can contact them with the extended/retracted specs and they can figure something out for me.

It's looking like $450.00 for four (4) shocks, based on what's listed for an MGB. That is a shock /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[GregW]

Hi Randy,
I’ve been to a couple sites that don’t list anywhere near all their products. K&N filters is one. Even Isky cams has dropped the Healey from it’s site, though I know they have two grinds for the six cylinder. Just ask to speak to a guy who’s been at Koni for twenty years. $450 seems like a deal since I’m faced with $750-$1200 for <u>one</u> shock for my motorcycle. Maybe KYB makes a shock that would work?

 

[Randy_Gay]

Randy,
You might take a look at the Modified Healey website. There is a post in the tech section on the Koni's and it think it includes a part number for the shocks. I'm not sure the listed one is still being made, but surely it can be cross matched.

 

[PeterC]

Lever-arm shocks, as good as they may be (?) don't have the instantaneous (change of direction) dampening that a good tube shock has.

Really? Why is that?


Peter

 

[Randy Forbes]

Lever-arm shocks, as good as they may be (?) don't have the instantaneous (change of direction) dampening that a good tube shock has.

Really? Why is that?


Peter

If you've ever taken one apart __(I know; what is WRONG with me?!)__ you'll see that the two (2) pistons operate from a central rocker-arm, or pivot. It takes more than a few degrees of shaft rotation to get them stroking in their bores (one goes in, while the other goes out). The moving piston(s) is what forces the oil, through the respective valves, into the other bore (chamber).

You can usually feel the deadband when operating a shock by hand; just move it up and down a little when the link is disconnected and the shock is still mounted.

I mean they work, but have you seen any used in design lately? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Modern tube shocks are a lot more efficient, and when tuned for sporting work (like Konis or Bilstein) respond much quicker in transient manoeuvres (say, a slalom).

 

[Randy Forbes]

Lever-arm shocks, as good as they may be (?) don't have the instantaneous (change of direction) dampening that a good tube shock has.

Really? Why is that?


Peter

If you've ever taken one apart __(I know; what is WRONG with me?!)__ you'll see that the two (2) pistons operate from a central rocker-arm, or pivot. It takes more than a few degrees of shaft rotation to get them stroking in their bores (one goes in, while the other goes out). The moving piston(s) is what forces the oil, through the respective valves, into the other bore (chamber).

You can usually feel the deadband when operating a shock by hand; just move it up and down a little when the link is disconnected and the shock is still mounted.

I mean they work, but have you seen any used in design lately? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Modern tube shocks are a lot more efficient, and when tuned for sporting work (like Konis or Bilstein) respond much quicker in transient manoeuvres (say, a slalom).

Okay, so now I've gone to your link and have seen that you "baited" me. Good on you!

 

[PeterC]

[/quote]
Okay, so now I've gone to your link and have seen that you "baited" me. Good on you! [/quote]

Randy, no, it wasn't my intention to "bait" you. Please don't feel I as out to trick you. I apologize if you feel that.

I am always on a quest to defend the engineering and reliability of Armstrong and Girling lever shocks. (yes, it is part of my business.) We have many successful racers running lever shocks. My belief is that lever shocks are not intrinsically inferior. In many ways they are superior. I do enjoy the discussion, and wanted to hear any new evidence. I will agree that there is slack in the linkage very often. That is repairable. A worn lever shock is no better than a worn tube shock. The valves in many (most?) tube shocks is no more sophisticated than that in a lever shock.

My approach has been with many components of these cars that the engineering and design are sound, and are part of a system, but that sometimes manufacturing corners were cut that we can improve upon given a bigger budget or better materials. This holds for Lucas electrics, brake systems, and suspensions.

Thanks Peter C.

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Randy,
I find no dead band at all on a lever shock that is in "good" condition. Same with the connecting link.

I suspect that much of the reason that manufacturers changed to OEM tube shocks is that they cost less to build, can be mounted in a tighter space, & require less costly mounting arrangements & linkage. To each his own.
D

 

[Michael Oritt]

FWIW--

I've dealt with Peter several times in identifying and sourcing hard-to-obtain parts for the Elva. He is a real helpful guy and a great resource.

 

[Lin]

I am not an engineer and I have no idea if one type of shock is better than the other. I have lever shocks on the Bugeye and it handles like a jewel. I am trying Putzke's Bilstein tube shocks on the Big Healey, front and back, for no other reason than I thought I would give something different a try, and now was the time to do it since I am completely restoring the car. I am not sure that I can compare the two types because it has been so long since I drove the Big Healey (30 years), I certainly don't remember the feel. To tell you the truth it wouldn't matter if I did remember the feel since I am sure the lever shocks were worn out at the time!

I do agree with Mike Oritt. Peter is a great service to our Healey community. I am a happy customer.

After I get some miles on the car, I will let you know what I think about the Bilsteins.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

 

[anthony7777]

randy/all, many years ago the adjustable koni rear shocks i put in a friends bj7 are part # 801504. the koni adaptors are part # 9198a. my friend still has the car and the original boxes these parts came in. dont know if this stuff is still available or any cross ref. numbers. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif

 

[Randy Forbes]

randy/all, many years ago the adjustable koni rear shocks i put in a friends bj7 are part # 801504. the koni adaptors are part # 9198a. my friend still has the car and the original boxes these parts came in. dont know if this stuff is still available or any cross ref. numbers. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif

WhooHoo!

Thanks for that.

Incidently, Tim Moran sent me the scan that is on the Nasty Boys forum, and the front shocks used were Gabriel #'s
E-Series: 63174
Strider Series: 45054

 

[AJAX50]

I agree with Dave Russell, good condition lever arms are just fine, watch out for poor exchange items. In the photograph, the telescopic shocks seem to be fitted a long way in-board, this is not great for function or handling. I guess if one were to go to the expense of turreting the telescopics so they are outbaord as far as possible then the results could be as good as top condition lever arms.

 

[anthony7777]

ajax50, i also agree, however the car i but the "koni" kit in has a limited addition small block ford build by the people at shelby, carol himself sighned several items,

 

[anthony7777]

randy, im sending you a p.m.