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TR6 Advice on TR6 potential purchase and title

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Bruce100

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I just ran into a 72 TR6 that might fit my budget. I have owned Spitfires and recently a TR3, but never a TR6. I saw it through the windows of a garage, and am going back later this week for a closer look. What TR6 specific things should I look for in evaluating it for purchase?

Also, the guy has a title that the PO signed in the presence of a notary, but left the new owner section blank. The previous owner passed away. Suggestions on how to make sure I don't get into trouble on the title?
 
If you say TR6 specific, then there are 2 things that come to my mind that might set a TR6 apart from a lot of other old cars.
Rust that has weakened the outriggers that the Trailing Arms attach to.. It's fixable but dangerous if not and related in a way, is the condition of the rear wheel hubs, check for the rear wheel looseness due to worn out ungreaseable bearings.
Maybe a third, although crankshaft Thrust Washers are not unique to the TR6 engine, worth checking the crankshaft end float to see if the TW's need immediate attention.

Everything else should be fairly common to buying most any old British sportscar thats probably seen better days, yet looking for a new start in life.

An innocent preemptive phone call to your DMV could get you an answer about title transfer.
 
He's referring to the section of the frame that part #121 (in the Moss diagram you linked to) bolts to. This is a rust prone area.
 
I don't have a dial indicator, and was wondering what is an inexpensive way to measure end float. Saw several sites showing use of a snap gauge and a vernier caliper. Where can I get a snap gauge locally? Suggestions?
 
Dial indicators are fairly cheap. Check Harbor Freight.
 
If you have third party Title Co in your area I would call them. Trying to make a phone call to the DMV in AZ is not an easy thing to do.

Make sure the panel gaps in the doors are the same at top and bottom. A weak frame will cause the car to sag in the middle.
 
If possible get the car on a lift where you can really examine and "hammer" on the frame especially the TA attachment point that PB mentioned and the Tee-Shirt area which can hide a lot of rust. After that look for any sign of exterior body rust because if you can see a small bubble, chances are there's a lot you can't see. door panel gaps.........well mine have been the same for 15 years: very even along the front edge and very uneven along the back edge..........and I've got a very solid frame. In my case it's probably more a sign of body mounts needing to be replaced.

In my mind the best thing you can do is pay a shop (that both parties agree on) $100 or whatever to go through the car and give you an estimate on what needs to be done to get it through state inspection and what else needs to be done. I did that and saved $3K on the asking price.

Or look at it this way...........rust, any rust has the potential to equal BIG $$$ or even render the car unsafe to drive while anything mechanical (within reason) can be fixed for a whole lot less money.
 
All the Notary does is verify that the signature signer is who he is. If the name matches the title on front, there should no problem with the title. You don't have to tell the DMV anything.
 
If the title change was not registered, then that implies the tags are not current which would be a minor problem.

I would not worry about the thrust bearings. While there are a few horror stories about them, they usually were on really abused and service neglected engines with high mileage. The important thing is that the engine starts. You may also want to take off the valve cover. If it is all gunked up, then the engine was not properly maintained. That does not necessarily mean there is a thrust washer issue, but maybe the gunk could be a negotiation point.

On the gaps at the rear of the door, they are normally wider at the top then at the bottom to allow for frame flex. Anything over 3/8" is of some concern.

Bubbled paint on the rocker panels or along the rear fender seams, means rust holes underneath, usually more then you would think. Lift the carpet ahead of the seats to see if the floors are still intact.
 
I was able to look a little closer today. Only had 5 minutes on my way between meetings! I did not have a lift, but was able to reach under where the trailing arm attaches, and could see somewhat. Could not feel or see any rust. It may or may not have been my imagination, but pushing on it with my thumb, I thought I could detect a slight deflection.
Here are pictures of the door gap on drivers side. I am concerned about the driver side door.
This gap seems too great to me... thoughts?
 

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Re: Advice on TR6 potential purchase - Pictures

Not unusual gaps. None are quite the same. Seen more with gaps like that than not. Not much quality control on panel fits.
 
Re: Advice on TR6 potential purchase - Pictures

:eeek: Marvin must not have looked at the picture on the previous page..
 
RE: pic #1. That would concern me, too... Yikes!
The door was closed, right?
 
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