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TR4/4A Advice on stripped Rear Hub wheel stud for TR4

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Wow, you guys have a lot of good knowledge and if you are willing to answer my basic questions, I will continue to ask. The enjoyment of fixing these cars almost equals the enjoyment of driving them. I am returning to spending more time working on mine and having a blast.

So I decide to go the helicoil route and decide to drill out the hole to 29/64 per helicoil instructions (there seems to be plenty of hub on the edge to accommodate this). When I get into the brake I find a lot of grease so it looks like the rear oil seal is bad. I pulled the hub and axel out. Now I presume I pull out the bearing from the hub to clean and repack it with grease and a new seal. My basic question before I start pulling things apart is if are there are any hard knock lessons waiting for me.

As a side note the knurled press in stud approach woke me up at night in a cold sweat as I envisioned what would happen if that thing strips if someone over tightens it. Wouldn’t that be a nightmare as it spins with no way to remove your wheel?

Paul
 
No problem, Paul, but it's usually best if you start a new thread with a suitable title. That way others with the same problem can find the thread easier.

The "nightmare" isn't too bad at all; worst case, you just grab the nut with vise grips (or mole grips if you're British
grin.gif
) and drill into the stud. But it's not likely anyway, since as the nut is tightened, the head of the stud also grips the flange harder.

To replace the outer grease seal, you have to first remove the hub from the shaft, as above. My rule of thumb is to plan on replacing the bearing as well, since it's easily damaged during the removal process (and may have been running dry due to the failed seal). Otherwise I understand it's a fairly straight-forward operation.
 
Just went through this last week.The original "stud" is a shouldered bolt that is screwed into the axle flange till the shoulder is tight to the face.Then it is treated to a good smashing in a press so it can never come out again.I dont know if these are sold but if you cut up a bad old flange you can save the studs,clean up the smashed end and re-use them.I suggest mig welding the stud on the back side.You will find that removing the flange from the shaft is VERY hard to do and MUST be done at a machine shop.It requires heat and a serious press to release it. Then a new bearing and seal are a pretty straight foreward matter.If they are not carefull, you will have the afore mentioned "bad old flange" since the force necessary to pop it off is in excess of the force it takes to bend it very badly.....BTDT.
MD(mad dog)
 
MDCanaday said:
Just went through this last week.The original "stud" is a shouldered bolt that is screwed into the axle flange till the shoulder is tight to the face.Then it is treated to a good smashing in a press so it can never come out again.I dont know if these are sold
Click to expand...
Available from TRF, P/N 100869 or 110365 for the shorter, wire wheel version.

Possibly I'm being overly paranoid, but I don't like heating on components like this. Hot enough to make a difference is also hot enough to potentially alter the tempering, which can lead to breaks later on. Somewhere I've got a video of Tony Drews breaking an axle inside the hub ... I'd rather mess with finding access to the right tool than take a chance, however slim, on that being me.
 
Randall, yes you could over heat the flange but we were only talking enough heat to let the press work its magic.If the part does not dis-color it was well within its specs of heating.Dont forget this part gets pretty hot during braking
too.Its machined steel not a casting.So after putting in a new one it should be migged in for life IMHO,since duplicating the factory swagging of the inner end is not too practical.
MD(mad dog)
 
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