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Adding an Ammeter

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Frameman 1949

Frameman 1949

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I tried to find any articles dealing with the issue but couldn’t find anything.
I’m going to add an ammeter to my Austin Healey 100-6. Can anyone recommend the best way to accomplish this?
Regards
Roger
 
Do a Google search on "adding an ammeter" and you will find what you need to know. An ammeter in a Healey isn't any different from any other car.
 
Another plus for the voltmeter and if you add one like this it gives you somewhere to plug in your phone .
Purists may want to avert their eyes 😇
 

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You need to insert a pair of wires--in series--to the wire at the VR that sends current to/from the battery and route them through the scuttle to wherever you want to mount the gauge. You can use spade connectors to make the install easily reversible (cover the connectors with shrink wrap). Those lobbying for a voltmeter, while not answering your question, will maintain a) a short in the circuit or the ammeter will make a real mess (possibly a fire) and b) it's a lot easier/'safer' to install a voltmeter. A voltmeter will only indicate battery/generator output, not whether or not the battery is dis/charging. Ideally, you'd want both.

I have a Smith's ammeter and a bracket, but never installed them because I 'chickened out,' and I couldn't decide where to mount the gauge on the underside of my BJ8's fascia.
 
My car had an ammeter wired at the control box and the old wiring showed signs of being hot and cracking. I had never seen an amp meter installed this way and without a shunt so I’m a bit paranoid about how it was installed.
I’ve changed the entire harness from headlights to taillights.
The volt meter alternative seems like a better approach.
Thanks for all your replies.
Regards to all
 
Healey Nut said:
Another plus for the voltmeter and if you add one like this it gives you somewhere to plug in your phone .
Purists may want to avert their eyes 😇
Click to expand...
Yes, a voltmeter is a bette way to go. I had mine custom made with an oil temp gauge to match the stock look of the 1957 Smith gauges in # 414.


'57 Interior Race Gauges.jpg
 
The advice I've heard is to have an ammeter if one has a generator and a voltmeter with an alternator.

If wiring up an ammeter be sure to use a shunt which avoids bringing a wire with full current into the interior and through the dash.
A friend of mine has a Dino 246 which came with an ammeter sans shunt--a short destroyed his interior.
 
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I agree with Michael. When I installed the alternator I added the voltmeter and removed the anmeter.
 
I agree with Richard; ammeter with generator/voltmeter with alternator, AND the use of a shunt for an ammeter!
 
There's not much space on a Healey 100's dash to mount auxiliary instruments in a practical manner. I used an Eddie Motorsports angled gauge bracket to mount a voltmeter on the right side of the dash adjacent to the passenger grab-handle and the angle created by the mount makes it easy to view the gauge even from across the cockpit, The bracket comes in both chrome and powder-coated black. I selected the latter and subsequently had it painted red to match the dash and car. (> Eddie Motorsports MSANG-216P Eddie Motorsports Billet Aluminum Angled Gauge Bezels | Summit Racing <) .
 
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dougie said:
Yes, a voltmeter is a bette way to go. I had mine custom made with an oil temp gauge to match the stock look of the 1957 Smith gauges in # 414.


View attachment 89517
Click to expand...
Dougie--

When I am racing I find it difficult to spend much time scanning gauges and have installed warning lights in both race cars for high water temperature, high oil temperature, low oil pressure and of course high RPM's. The lights easily catch my eye and I can then check the gauge for detail or verification. Nevertheless that's certainly an impressive dash.

On my street Healey I at one time considered mounting a vintage Heuer Monte Carlo rally set (see picture) consisting of a 60-minute stopwatch and a 12-hour clock but ultimately decided against doing so as--like the Healey--the instruments are not waterproof.

Nevertheless the Heuer set would certainly dress up the interior of a car, especially if it is either used for rallying or portrays one of the factory Healeys which were campaigned so successfully/. If anyone is interested in purchasing the Heuer set please contact me directly at: michael.oritt@gmail.com.
 

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Norman Nock always insisted on an ammeter. There are pros and cons for either. In simple terms, think of an ammeter as a flow meter. A slight amount of current flows into the battery most of time, a larger flow right after starting when the draw on the battery was heavy. An electrical fault will quickly cause loss of current, hence the negative reading on an ammeter. An ammeter is an immediate warning system. To wire an ammeter, you need to tap into the large brown wire at the control box, run it through the ammeter and back to the box. Yes, the danger is that you are running the full electrical current into the cockpit. A volt meter is like a fuel gauge; it measures the amount of voltage in the battery. An electrical fault will cause the voltage to drop and you will see this on the volt meter and while it will be apparent fairly soon, it is a slower drop, not immediate like the ammeter. But you only need to tap into any circuit to wire in a volt meter, making it safer in that regard. I followed Noman's advice and installed an ammeter, but I also have a digital volt meter/USB port, which is there the heater box and parcel shelf meet.

IMG_3651.jpg
 
I just came upon this entry, and I have easily installed a voltmeter in my 100/4. I find most informative for the electrical system. Before start up it can show battery condition, 12 volts, the charging condition, 14 volts, the ability of the generator to support electrical loads (headlights) fan belt slipping, etc. My is mounted on the parcel shelf and is in sight with an easy glance.
 
jimmyr said:
I just came upon this entry, and I have easily installed a voltmeter in my 100/4. I find most informative for the electrical system. Before start up it can show battery condition, 12 volts, the charging condition, 14 volts, the ability of the generator to support electrical loads (headlights) fan belt slipping, etc. My is mounted on the parcel shelf and is in sight with an easy glance.
Click to expand...
In addition to Norman Nock's insistence on the ammeter, it is also what was installed by the dealer, so I wanted to retain the period application. That said, I do have a digital voltmeter/USB port as well.
 
Bruce, nicely installed yours looks great. I just commented on the voltmeters as a topic for others who may be thinking about an electrical gauge of some kind. Jim
 
FWIW-The Voltmeter will tell you the battery voltage by just turning the ignition Key, typically 12.4 VDC. Once started the voltage should rise to 13.7-14.7 VDC approximately. This shows that the Generator or Alternator is producing enought voltage to power all of the electrical systems and charge the battery. If the voltage goes below 12.4 volts or above 15 volts there is a problem with the voltage regulator or generator/alternator.

The Ammeter will just tell you which way the current is flowing and not the voltage.

Even if you install the ammeter, you can easily purchase a plug-in voltmeter/USB port charger that plugs into a 12 VDC outlet socket.

My thoughts, Peter.
 
David Nock, Norman's son, is of a different opinion. He just did a tech session at California Healey Week in Lake Tahoe last week. He strongly recommended installing a voltmeter instead of an ammeter.
 
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