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The pickup tube goes from the bottom of the block down into the pan. Had one once where the engine builder put the pickup tube gasket in so that only one bolt was attached properly. The gasket covered most of the hole, didn't seal at all and the pump just kept sucking in air. Ever since then, I make sure I take care of the pan and everything under it.
Oh, that tube.
I did have it out
I sent it to the local machinist guy and he put it through his colossal parts washer.
Remember putting it back with a new gasket and both bolts and nut on the screen
Now that you have it, follow the telephone instructions, then start it up. Or, try to start it up. Remember, this is a General Misunderstanding TRiumph, and "just starting it up" sometimes isn't that easy.
OK, so spun the motor and it sounded like the starter wasn't hooking up with the fly wheel.
Sounded Like it was just spinning.
Brand new starter so I pulled the wires on it and rehooked them.
Same thing , this time I noticed the oil gauge was quivering.
Hmmm. Must be how these hi torques sound .
Spun it for a couple of seconds and the pressure rose to about 20-25
Did this 2 or 3 times and I think I'm good on this account ,I think
By the way Should not have waited to pull the relay for the fuel pump so late
PWEW!!
Very good John
When I refinished the plenum. I forgot to fill the one next to the MAP sensor
5/8's "
Big vac leak.
Just finished up with a 2 day golf weekend.(Don't tell SWMBO)
So back to work
I know that to prime the oil pump on a TR3A, you have to be driving your oil pump and distributor shaft counterclockwise with your electric drill for it to produce the right direction to get the oil to pump and flow.
Can't speak about the TR7s or TR8s.
I have never used this technique. Even after a full engine rebuild, I just use the starter to get it going with the spark plugs out. Within about 30 seconds or less, the oil pressure reads where it should just on the starter motor. This tells me that the pump is working fine.
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