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TR2/3/3A AC Fuel pump removal
- Thread starter GTP1960
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Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
I use a 1/4 drive extension with either a u-joint or a 'wobble' fitting.
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-wobble-socket-extension-set-67971.html
As I recall, Justin Wagner devoted a page on his website to that bolt (and removal of same). Anyone with a link?
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-wobble-socket-extension-set-67971.html
As I recall, Justin Wagner devoted a page on his website to that bolt (and removal of same). Anyone with a link?
Darrell_Walker
Jedi Knight
Offline
His website used to be https://jmwagnersales.com/, but it appears to be gone.
But as they say, nothing on the internet is really gone:
https://web.archive.org/web/20080719163535/https://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html
Darrell_Walker
Jedi Knight
Offline
Here is the picture from Justin's site.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I found that it could be done with a short flat open end wrench, but you have to flip the wrench over after each 1/12 turn. Justin's setup with the U-joint socket works MUCH easier and is easily worth the $8 you'll spend at Sears.
https://www.sears.com/gearwrench-1-4inch-drive-6-pt-flex-socket-1-2inch/p-00992163000P
Comes in handy in other places, too. Here it is removing the lower nuts from the front carb
https://www.sears.com/gearwrench-1-4inch-drive-6-pt-flex-socket-1-2inch/p-00992163000P
Comes in handy in other places, too. Here it is removing the lower nuts from the front carb
OP
GTP1960
Jedi Knight
Offline
Thanks guys',
i'm going to order that wagner set up from Sears.
i tried using my 1/4 " drive, universal, & 2" ext. but with no success.( no room for standard socket to get around the nut).
i don't believe this fuel pump is original, so it may not have exactly the same specs as OEM.
im also going to find a short skinny offset open ended, if I can.
but what I really need is for my wife to come out here with her tiny hands and fit that socket.
(Ha! Fat chance there, she doesn't like Sheila anyway)
BTW: here is another sign of the times:
Local Sears store closed up & walked away from my town last year.
I always thought of Sears as a rock of Gibraltar kinda business.
My first real job was with Sears hardware dept. In Dallas,
at age 15. Loved it too.
thx again.
guy
i'm going to order that wagner set up from Sears.
i tried using my 1/4 " drive, universal, & 2" ext. but with no success.( no room for standard socket to get around the nut).
i don't believe this fuel pump is original, so it may not have exactly the same specs as OEM.
im also going to find a short skinny offset open ended, if I can.
but what I really need is for my wife to come out here with her tiny hands and fit that socket.
(Ha! Fat chance there, she doesn't like Sheila anyway)
BTW: here is another sign of the times:
Local Sears store closed up & walked away from my town last year.
I always thought of Sears as a rock of Gibraltar kinda business.
My first real job was with Sears hardware dept. In Dallas,
at age 15. Loved it too.
thx again.
guy
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Sears has been teetering on the brink for a long time now. In fact, they would probably already be gone if K-mart hadn't bought them just before the recession. Last I heard, they plan to close over 100 more stores (counting both Sears and K-mart) this year.
PS, there are a couple of tricks you can try to get the socket on. The first method is to hold the extension up extra-high, so the opening of the dangling socket is above the nut and then kind of wiggle the socket onto the nut while lowering the extension. If there isn't room for that, you can try the same thing from the side or bottom, by bumping the socket against the engine block (in this case) and turning the extension so the opening is again towards the nut.
I've even been known to take a punch and spread the pivot pins in the U-joint, to make it stiff enough to hold the socket horizontal (but still flexible enough to work around corners).
PS, there are a couple of tricks you can try to get the socket on. The first method is to hold the extension up extra-high, so the opening of the dangling socket is above the nut and then kind of wiggle the socket onto the nut while lowering the extension. If there isn't room for that, you can try the same thing from the side or bottom, by bumping the socket against the engine block (in this case) and turning the extension so the opening is again towards the nut.
I've even been known to take a punch and spread the pivot pins in the U-joint, to make it stiff enough to hold the socket horizontal (but still flexible enough to work around corners).
OP
GTP1960
Jedi Knight
Offline
"I've even been known to take a punch and spread the pivot pins in the U-joint, to make it stiff enough to hold the socket horizontal (but still flexible enough to work around corners)."
Thx Randall,
i'm going to try your tricks. So far it's been an exercise in frustration. It's probably a good thing it will be a week before that flex socket arrives. (Give me time to lower my BP.)
in the mean time I think I'll buy a couple HFT 1/4"- 1/2" sockets to grind down and experiment with.
maybe try a crows foot.
Thx Randall,
i'm going to try your tricks. So far it's been an exercise in frustration. It's probably a good thing it will be a week before that flex socket arrives. (Give me time to lower my BP.)
in the mean time I think I'll buy a couple HFT 1/4"- 1/2" sockets to grind down and experiment with.
maybe try a crows foot.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Alternately -- When I need to stiffen the u-joint I wrap a piece of duck tape around it.
Bo_Bogaty
Freshman Member
Offline
I modified a cheap open end wrench to deal with the back fuel rear pump nut. After cutting it to fit, I put a machine bolt near the end. Now the modified wrench can be placed on he back FP bolt and a pull handle with a hole in the handle can be placed over the machine bolt and pushed/pulled as needed. Never leave home without it.
Lukens
Jedi Warrior
Offline
same here
OP
GTP1960
Jedi Knight
Offline
Seems like every one derived there own trick for this one. my pump was made in Canada,
so I doubt it was original(pls correct me if I'm wrong). & may not have met original specs.
it was leaking gas at the bowl seal & the top, it appeared to have a hair line crack in the top, probably from one of the screws being over tightened.
i went back HF today and bought a crowfoot open end & that worked for me, with a 1/4" adapter, universal & 8" extension that I used as a lever(sticking straight up).
Luckily, the nut was not torqued down real tight. I suspect the PO had the same issue I had,
thanks for all your input, helped me keep trying stuff until something worked.
GP
so I doubt it was original(pls correct me if I'm wrong). & may not have met original specs.
it was leaking gas at the bowl seal & the top, it appeared to have a hair line crack in the top, probably from one of the screws being over tightened.
i went back HF today and bought a crowfoot open end & that worked for me, with a 1/4" adapter, universal & 8" extension that I used as a lever(sticking straight up).
Luckily, the nut was not torqued down real tight. I suspect the PO had the same issue I had,
thanks for all your input, helped me keep trying stuff until something worked.
GP
Attachments
CJD
Yoda
Offline
Now you guys have me wondering if repro pumps are different from the originals.
I handed my son the fuel pump today to mount on the TR2, and after reading this thread, I turned around to dig out the crow-foot for the rear 1/2" nut, thinking it was going to be a problem. Well, he had the pump mounted and torqued in the minute it took me to turn back around from sorting through the crow's feet! For our pump a standard 3/8" socket extension on either a 1/2" deep socket, or a 12 point std socket works just fine. I used both, as after he mounted it we had to remove the nut to add the oil tube clip...since he had been so fast I hadn't had a chance to tell him about it.
Both my fuel pumps are originals that I have rebuilt. I have to wonder if there is a later reproduction that gives everyone trouble with the rear bolt, as it is a non-issue on the original pumps...
OP
GTP1960
Jedi Knight
Offline
Hey John,
can an you take some pics of your original FP? Especially the rear of mounting plate area.
i'll do the same on my Canadian FP. See if there is an obvious difference.( here's one I took earlier, but it doesn't show a real good angle.)
Geo, my steering column is removed for refurbishing.
GP
