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TR6 '74 TR6 Fuse Box [UPDATE] SOLVED!

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Re: '74 TR6 Fuse Box HELP!

I'm with Bill on this. I do <u>everything</u> on my cars myself.
When I started on this journey, 40 years ago, I didn't know doodelly squat. But, I learned. To me, waving a checkbook at a problem doesn't teach me anything.
Jeff
 
Re: '74 TR6 Fuse Box HELP!

Steve,
Did you do anything else to the electrical system at the time you switched out the fuse box? Your wiring and harness tape look fairly fresh so I don't think you have a short at mid wire, probably a connection that has come loose and is grounding out. Maybe the fusebox is defective? Never seen that but they aren't much to replace. Go with Danmas's sugestions to narrow the search. Get Dan Masters electrical maintenance book, It's written so that even I can understand it (though sometimes it takes a second or third reading) I mapquested Mechanicsville Va. to see if you were close by and came up with four results. There is a reason mechanics own towns.
Phil
 
Re: '74 TR6 Fuse Box HELP!

You need to check if the fuse block is oriented correctly end for end. On my sons 79 Midget it matters, as the connections at the end of the fuses aren't necessarily connected to that fuse. This is not to say that all of the Lucas fuse blocks are built this way. I am the other Phil this time. Phil
 
Re: '74 TR6 Fuse Box HELP!

did you try putting the old fuse box back in and see if everything goes back to working? then you know you might have a bad new fuse box.
 
found out (on my own /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif) that the headlight switch was bad and the current was shorting out at the switch.

$12.95 @ Moss. Any better prices out there? Its part #55 on the image below.

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Congratulations! You've learned something and so did I. Thanks for posting your results.
 
and I got some of those correct 35 amp fuses too!

I'm curious though, if amps are amps, why would Buss 35 amp fuses be different than the Lucas ones? Aren't amps pretty much measured on the same basis all over the world?

I know in hi fi they are.

Regardless, I ordered a whole bunch. Of the RIGHT ones.
 
Yes and No. I'll try to find the thread explaining and post it for your review.

Got it! Here's quoting Geo Hahn quoting Odd H:

"Here is an old post from elsewhere that I saved. Same answer as Bill's but with some explanation (and I agree about using Lucas fuses as they are also the right physical size).

==== quoting Odd H ====

A Lucas fuse is rated by what current it would blow at. Ordinary automotive fuses are rated by what current you can draw WITHOUT blowing them, or the maximum continuous current. They don't really specify at what current they'll blow...

Anyway, these old Lucas fuses of mine have both the Lucas "will blow at" rating, and the maximum continuous current rating, i.e. the normal rating labeled on them. [Or rather in them, because it is a small paper strip inside that carries this info. The more modern Lucas fuses have the info printed on the glass tube in an abbreviated form.]

So here's your equivalents:

Lucas 50 amp - continuous 25 amp
Lucas 35 amp - continuous 17 amp
Lucas 25 amp - continuous 12 amp
Lucas 20 amp - continuous 10 amp
Lucas 15 amp - continuous 8 amp
Lucas 10 amp - continuous 5 amp
Lucas 2 amp - continuous 1 amp

See the trend here? Each fuse is actually good for a continuous current that's roughly 50% of it's Lucas rating.

==== end quote ==== "

Here's the thread: https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post121293
 
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