TR6 74' - Clutch replacement

[EWD]

Morning folks! Greetings from sunny Virginia.
Finally got the trans out and found the problem (fork set screw shear).
A couple of questions please:
1. Original clutch - 89,000 miles. Should I assume that at this point, the clutch should be replaced?
2. Best product choice. Lux, Borg, other?
3. Other, now that the door is open....
Thx,
Will

 

[Hamish Racing]

AP for me clutch wise
And cross drill and pin or another bolt the fork to the cross shaft to prevent another failure

 

[mctriumph]

IMHO replace the X shaft with the earlier, greaseable style, and cross drill and tap an extra bolt.
This is a 100% cure. On a 6 the bushings in the bellhousing must be refreshed if worn,also.
Mad dog

 

[EWD]

Thx. Certainly plan to cross drill. Have pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel removed. Trying to determine if pressure plate plate and throw out bearing need replacing. Will send photos for any thoughts.
Will

 

[Sarastro]

Since you have the thing apart anyway, a clutch replacement is prudent. It's only a couple hundred bucks, and 89K miles is close to the limit. As for the shaft and fork, I like to use a taper pin for this, as it gives you good contact to both sides of the fork. But do something, or you will have another broken pin to deal with.

Transmission and Overdrive

 

[EWD]

My first rodeo with the clutch assembly and not really sure of whether to replace:
1. Pressure plate
2. Throw out bearing - spins fine but……
Assume I should get the flywheel buffed
Re: Trans - while out, should I replace the gaskets?
Re: Fork - best size hole for a taper pin?
Thx, Will

 

[Hamish Racing]

You will need an old splined main shaft or the (often plastic) clutch plate alignment tool.

Probably worth a replacement throw bearing - just get a good one !
Unless deeply scored I’d leave the flywheel face alone.

As to cross pin. This is mine done by a uk triumph gearbox specialist.
It’s similar to the factory but in the opposite plane.
Some use a 2 or 3mm roll pin which are sprung hardened steel so very strong.

 

[Hamish Racing]

 

[EWD]

Thx for your replies. Still sorting all of this out. Certainly don't want to do it again.
How to tell if pressure plate needs replacing? Or, should this just be done?
Re: throw out bearing replacement - suggestion? Noticed that Moss has a bronze upgrade carrier. Needed?
Have loss some trans fluid over time (and maybe this is normal). Replaced the rear back seal which helped. Noticed some small seepage from lower inside plate while cleaning (to put in new fork and pins). Is it best to just leave well enough alone or replace the gaskets?
THx,
Will

 

[Sarastro]

Get a clutch kit, which will have the disk, plate, and release bearing. Also check the carrier closely for wear, also the pins in the fork that engage it. Replace everything worn.

I don't think there is much risk in replacing the shaft seal, but be sure to use sealer in replacing the front plate. Some of the screw holes go all the way through the trans wall, so you can get leakage around those screws. Use sealer on the threads. That might be the reason for your slight leakage.

Don't just run off to Moss and take whatever they offer. Check prices at BP Northwest, Rimmer, and see if The Roadster Factory is offering these parts by now.

 

[EWD]

Thx Steve. Checking now. Appears that AP, Lux, Borg and Beck, just a matter of preference?

 

[EWD]

Just checked out markings/ number/brand on what I removed. I bought the car from the original owner and the paperwork file show no clutch work. So, I assume its original -
* Clutch - one side stamped England 53131 - looks like the AP logo. Other side stamped 51580 with "Flywheel side" in both English and German
* Pressure plate (hard to make out) - AP - 4LCKF16005A 543H104 LC 03JR 003B
* Throw out bearing - RHP UK 14/W 2 1/16
Trying to determine the best kit. Inventories are low.
Will

 

[Sarastro]

I'd just get any well known, respected make. I used a Borg & Beck kit, but that was largely a random choice. Others might have more experience with these makes, so I'll let them comment.

 

[Hamish Racing]

Only to explain robustness my AP clutch is on my 3a converted to the more modern clutch. I use a tr6 gearbox anyway. I put about 175bhp/tonne through it.

It drives very well on the road with a nice feel yet when I fit my wide sticky near slick tyres it copes with burn outs and lots of very quick sprint starts.

I think buying the kit as one is a good idea plate cover and bearing
Shaft cross drilling then enjoy many years of summer motoring.

Enjoy

 

[mctriumph]

If it is not an OD tranny go to a 5 speed conversion. The 6's cry out for a 5th gear/OD. The factory box looks great
under the bench....
Mad dog

 

[EWD]

Here’s the flywheel. No gouges but some discoloration. Thx everyone for your time and comments. It’s an education.
Will

 

[EWD]

Update. Bought TR6 from original owner several years ago. Turns out he had just replaced the clutch and pressure plate before he sold it to me and the info was not in the file. Items have <1K miles so, they’re going back in tomorrow.

1. Going with a new (rebuilt) OD tranny. Would like that 5th gear. With the new hardened taper pin, supplier does not recommend cross drilling for a second pin/bolt through the fork and shaft (not needed and shaft integrity). But, they will if I want. A little confused on this. Wonder if this new pin has solved the shearing problem?
2. Flywheel - looks good. Should the bushing insert be greased?
3. Rear bearing - Before I take my rear axle to a shop, has anyone tried screwing 1/4 bolts through the two holes in the hub and using them against the back plate to force the hub off? (may not have enough force)
Thx. Anxious to get back on the road.
W