• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

67 Midget Clutch travel.. one more time...

Share this page

G

Gunner

Senior Member
Offline
I'm sure this has been well discussed... but I'm still unsure about my clutch... before I pull my engine to check my clutch/throwout bearing, etc...
I jacked up my midget, disconnected my slave cylinder and clamped a pair of vice grips to the clutch rod... can anyone tell me how much pressure it should take to disengage the clutch? It seems like I was having to apply an inordinate amount of pressure to move the clutch rod even 1/2 inch... It could be that my clutch plate is frozen to my flywheel...
Thanks for all your help.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Sid,

I have never been able to manual move any clutch. If you can move those clutch fingers by hand you have a problem. That is why there is hydraulic pressure and before hydraulic pressure there was linkage and levers. If you clutch plate is frozen to the flywheel your transmission will not disconnect from the engine.
 
That's exactly what I was needing to hear, Wolfman.. Thanks.
I may just pull that engine anyway now that I have the engine accessories off...
Who sells the ball bearing throw out bearings?
 
For example, 1000psi hydraulic pressure is about 450 lb at the fork lever & 1500psi is 650lb. That's a lot more force than you could pull with a vice grips.

I would stay with the carbon throwout bearing. They are made to last a good long time with normal usage. I'm not convinced that the ball bearing type would be an improvement.
 
Back
Top