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MGB 25D dizzy rebuild

Buy a spool. You own an MG. :ROFLMAO:

OH! And if you don't have one, a 12V "test light" and you can static time the dizzy.
 
Don't take this as insult, but where do you sit on a scale of one to ten as experienced with vehicle maintenance? Zero being complete noob, ten being ASE Certified? Hard to know how familiar you are from just a few posts, y'see. I'd hate to "talk down" to a fellow Tech, or omit some step because I took for granted it was already known.
 
Ok, I started with 62 midget, did the valves and adjusted su’s
TR6, replaced strombergs with SU’s..
several BGT’s I did interior work
Current B, just redid interior..replaced radiator etc.
Electronics is my Achilles heel. Mechanical is intuitive to me, sparky stuff is still foreign.
 
Ok, I started with 62 midget, did the valves and adjusted su’s
TR6, replaced strombergs with SU’s..
several BGT’s I did interior work
Current B, just redid interior..replaced radiator etc.
Electronics is my Achilles heel. Mechanical is intuitive to me, sparky stuff is still foreign.
Great! So did you get to the coil trigger wire rigged up? Did it start?


I can send you some white wire with a black tracer wire if you would like it.
👍 That'd keep it accurate to the wiring diagram, but at this point methinks anything that carries current is good. :yesnod:

(I'd figger out a way to MacGyver up a couple paper clips and some lamp cord just to see if it would start! :devilgrin: )
 
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Great! So did you get to the coil trigger wire rigged up? Did it start?



👍 That'd keep it accurate to the wiring diagram, but at this point methinks anything that carries current is good. :yesnod:

(I'd figger out a way to MacGyver up a couple paper clips and some lamp cord just to see if it would start! :devilgrin: )
I had a spool of white 12ga..female connectors are on it. Time prevented me from hooking up the battery and seeing if she fires up..tomorrow I will give it a try
Thanks for your encouragement
 
Like I said, I really don’t have a handle on electronics. I didn’t follow a wiring diagram, I just hooked the wires up as I thought they’ve were before. I turned the key, I had no fuel pump noise and the tach needle went up to about 2000.
I quickly turned it off.
I am now looking at a Rick Astley Electricsl Systems manual to see if I can make sense of this debacle.
..so, no vroom vroom at this time.
 
Don't take this as insult, but where do you sit on a scale of one to ten as experienced with vehicle maintenance? Zero being complete noob, ten being ASE Certified? Hard to know how familiar you are from just a few posts, y'see. I'd hate to "talk down" to a fellow Tech, or omit some step because I took for granted it was already known.
Greetings,
I finally got everything hooked up..well as best I could from pictures I had taken. I did not look at any wiring diagrams, well I wouldn’t understand them anyway.
I turned the key, no sound from fuel pump and tech jumped to around 2000..turned off quickly
I now have Rick Astleys Essential Electrical Systems manual open trying to understand where the wires should be because obviously they aren’t correct.
So, no vroom vroom yet
 
Not familiar with that book but looking at the descriptions it seems it should help.

As for wiring diagrams, one of the easiest to decipher is a "ladder" style one. Austin-Healey Club member Bill Young's is good, even if specific to a Bugeye Sprite. It would apply to about any of the British cars of the time. Differences are minor, most notable is the positive ground vs. negative. But the ignition circuit is color correct and annotated for negative ground difference. The Bugeye tach was mechanical, so not in the diagram, but the white wire to "feed" yours is just going on a detour from ignition switch to it and then connected to the coil's "SW" or "+" connector.


> For the Moderators< If I'm stepping on any toes here, please delete the JPG.

I took the liberty of converting the PDF file to a JPG:

Bugeye WD  rev G.jpg
 
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