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TR2/3/3A 2 questions; raising the body and taking out that lean to the right

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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I'm planning on replacing the rear shackle spring bushings and possibly the fronts too. I plan on driving he car for another 20+ years then plan on giving it to the kids to enjoy. Never noticed a problem with the rear suspension but the rear fenders and doors are off so now is the time to do it. How many of the body mounts should I remove or loosen to get the rear end up high enough to pull the spring off the front mount? Also should I have the doors installed when I lift it?

Although that lean in the body is suppose to be there it's always bothered me. If the springs are off I don't plan on replacing the spacer that causes it. My question is with removing the spacer will it change my door gaps that I worked so hard to get perfect?
 
You should not have to lift the body unless the front spring pin is stuck in the frame.

The spacer will have no affect on the body panels.
 
If you're lucky the pin can be withdrawn using some all-thread and an assortment of washers and sockets (as spacers). I have never failed to them out that way.

You may want to be soaking them in PBlaster or such for awhile before you try to pull them. I also run a blind tap into the pin to be sure the threads are clean.

Seems unusual to me that the lean to the right is so much that you want to correct it - by now most of these cars have developed a lean to the left from years of solo drivers.
 
Soak those pins for weeks in PB Blaster and tap the area with a hammer to encourage the solvent to seep in. What a **** of atime I had removing the pass side pin. I ended up drilling most of the pin out and even buying an expensive reamer to ream out the hole. Hope you have better luck. What a #@&*^ nightmare.:nightmare:
 
I haven't read the manual yet but it looks like the castle nut comes off and the spring "should" slide off. If not all the way then almost to the end of the pin.
 
Got_All_4 said:
...looks like the castle nut comes off and the spring "should" slide off...
Click to expand...

I don't think that's going to happen. Longer soaking is best. I actually soaked mine by applying PBlaster every time I was under the car for something -- for several years.

What I lack in patience I try to make up for with forethought.

It's a good feeling when that pin draws out of there like a cork from a wine bottle - hopefully that is how it will go for you.
 
I will agree with everyone, this is a tough job! The front pin was a big problem for me, more on the left side than the right but very difficult. I had the body off the frame and had complete access to the pins. I banged, heated and PB blasted the front two for weeks, I think I used a large pipe wrench to twist on it because it was not moving and I could not get it to twists using a socket, spacers etc. Once it stated to move, which seemed like forevah.... it went a lot easier but getting the darn thing to move was a chore. I'd say spray, bang over and over for as long as you can then try to get it to move but be ready to spray bang for a lot longer than you'd think, not a Saturday afternoon task. If you persevere you'll get it out! The rears were simple. If the rear fender and doors are off is the body shimmed correctly? Maybe you lost a spacer and the tub is on the frame? Or are your springs broken? Just a thought? Oh and when I put the front pin back in, I put anti seize on them just in case I ever needed to remove them again!
 
DornTRoriginal said:
... I think I used a large pipe wrench to twist on it because it was not moving and I could not get it to twists...
Click to expand...

Just to be clear - there is no chance of twisting it until it had come out about a quarter inch. The head of the pin is a D shape and is captured by a boss on the frame. Pushing or pulling are the only ways to move it and with the body on a TR3 then pulling is the only recourse.
 
Got_All_4 said:
I haven't read the manual yet but it looks like the castle nut comes off and the spring "should" slide off. If not all the way then almost to the end of the pin.
Click to expand...


Mmmmmm, no. The spring cannot come off with the body on unless you get the long pin bolt to push inward through the frame. I would try to press (pull) the pin, and if it absolutely will not move, then lifting the body is a "last resort" move.
 
Up until 4 years ago I've driven the car for 30+ years after it's first restoration. Hopefully that kept something loose. Started spraying it yesterday with penetrant. Wouldn't be a job I would start until the weather changes for good around here. Did some searching on the site and for now I'm convinced that lifting the body would be the easier and the shortest method. If that doesn't work then it will at lease give me more room to work with. I was working around the carpeting but will have to remove it now but no big deal. It will be easier to clean out of the car. I'll keep spraying it over the next several weeks as I do other work on the car. Should be finishing the overdrive this weekend and need to clean up and paint the engine too before it goes back in. Keep the ideas coming though. Thanks!
 
If you lift the body, you will not need to mess with removing the pin bolt that usually sticks. To tilt the body, you will need to remove the following bolts:

2) rear body mounts in the rear of the rear wing wells.
2) recessed bolts under rear of seats.
8) main body bolts in foot wells and under outer rear of seats
1-2) remove and clamp fuel line coming from tank
2) rear wing brace bolts

Then you will need to loosen these bolts:

4) diagonal mounts reached in engine compartment
2) front body mounts forward inside front wheel wells
4) bumper bracket mounts.

This will be enough to tilt the body just enough to reach the front spring eye and remove it without removing the pin bolt. Do not tilt more than needed, or there are more bolts/lines that need to be removed. Some of them are major, like hard brake lines, so this is very important to remember!

Any of these bolts may end up being rusted solid or have spun caged nuts...so it would probably be advisable to attempt to remove the spring pin bolts before going to the trouble of removing all those others! It would likely be less work in the end.
 
Of course there is one other approach though I have never resorted to or even seriously considered it. A hole can be drilled in the body to allow a drift to be hammered against the end of the pin/bolt to drive it out. I have heard some use a chrome plug afterwards to cap the hole but to me it looked like it might be concealed by the small/forward stone guard.

But I agree - it is the work of a few minutes to set up the arrangement of washer, deep socket, washer, nut on a length of all-thread and see if that pin will withdraw. You double-nut the all-thread to get a deep, tight grip on the pin. Grade 8 may be advisable though my hardware store only had regular all-thread and that did it fine for me.
 
Yep I agree that is logical to try to extract the pin first. Anyone have a pic of the washer/ socket double nut set up? I did read about drilling a hole in the rocker panel to drive out the pin. However I haven't looked at it close enough to see if the stone guard will cove up the plug. Not too thrilled with that idea. It will be quite a while before I get to it and I'll keep spraying it and hopefully it will suck in and the pin will pull right out.
 
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