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TR4/4A 1965 TR4A

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83Pbass

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Hi All,

New guy here, recently purchased a 65' TR4A. Runs but needs some body work and TLC. At this time not looking to do a complete restoration just want a presentable weekend driver. A couple of questions if I may,
The car did not have a jack, can one use any scissor jack on that car? It is a live axle 4A not IRS, I have seen rear tube suspension up grades for TR4's and TR4A IRS. Would the live axle 4A use the kit for the TR4?? Is the upgrade worth the $$$

Thanks,

Jim
 
Jim-

Welcome to the forum.

As to tube shocks, I'd save your money for other things right now - no, the kit for live axle is not that same as for the IRS version. Those lever shocks aren't all that bad, you might just check yours out first to see if they are leaking badly - if not get that car on the road and see how you like the overall handling first, then decide what to tweak later (just my opinion).

Scissor jack - absolutely, thats what I carry in my TR4.

Randy
 
I agree with Randy. I'd pass on the shock conversion and stay with your lever shocks. I'd focus on good shock links and good lever shocks, even if rebuit or remanufactured from the "Big Three."

You do know that many experts will tell you that a live axle TR4A is the best one to have? I wouldn't for a moment feel compelled to change anything there.

Just be sure you have good shock links and shocks, and be careful not to strip the bolt holes for the shocks. In fact, check those to be sure everything is snug and tight anyway.

A scissor jack is perfect for emergency tire removal. The riser of the jack should be the correct size to fit the frame width.

As you can imagine, you want jack stands and a good padded floor jack for anything else. You don't want to go under the car on a jack alone, including a scissor jack. Years back I wrenched a nut and nearly pulled scissor jack over.

If you're patient and careful, and barring major rust issues, you can do one heck of a good restoration leaving the body fully on the car. You can totally restore the interior, and both the front and rear suspension, as well as the engine and wiring. You can also clean up and restore the frame with the car on jack stands and a few weeks of patient cleaning, washing and chassis painting.

Maybe save the body work for last.

Good luck.
 
Welcome to the forum!

Please post some pics of your new ride. You will find this forum to be a great source of good advice for keeping your TR going. Use the search function to search old threads for the lever shock vs. tube shock debate.
 
Welcome my friend to the show that never ends.

If you haven't already -- see if you can hook up with a club in your area. I come here (Forum) for tech advice and turn to my local club for driving experiences and sympathy.

I see that these guys have their annual show coming up next month:

https://www.goldcoastbritcar.org/
 
Jim, The Roadster Factory just put online today their TR4-4A GloveBox Companion where they have listed a Scissors Jack. This looks like their best catalog yet for 4-4A but is not all they carry. If you don't have a Moss catalog it is more complete.
 
Thanks Again,

Here are a few pics If I can upload them. The car has very little rust and from 10' looks pretty good. The hood however has some paint issues. The finish is cracking on vintage guitars they call it checking. OK on old Guitars not so cool on my TR. Something to add to the list. Mechanically the car is pretty sound.
 

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Nice looking car!

Speaking as a fellow live axle owner, you'll be fine with the stock setup. Rebuilt/serviced levers and properly lubricated leaf springs work pretty well for me. Get the car sorted out and then you can start thinking about the upgrades in other areas.

Oh, I think I might get your username now. If I did that I would be 76Jbass. :laugh:

Good luck!
 
All the bass players in the same topic. P bass here, also. Along with Dyna-bass, acoustic/electric, and dog house.
 
Beautiful, I had a live axle 66 4A in college in the 80s, loved the car, once all sorted they are rock solid reliable and beautiful too. This forum is a great resource, as is the Buckeye Triumph tech section (google and bookmark now if you are a DIYer).
 
Jim,

Nice looking car! Some day I'll have time and a place to get mine back to that point.

And checking like this? :smile:

dcp_1799.jpg


Scott
 
Well it seems bass players have a penchant for TR's. Like Ampegs and Fenders.

The TR when at running temp shows oil pressure at 30-50 psi and around 15 psi at idle. From what I've read 50-60 is desirable. Took it to a local mechanic he said the engine sounds fine and appears to be getting plenty of oil. Basically told me not to worry. Have put~150 miles on the car no problems. A paint guy told me that most likely someone over sprayed the hood with the wrong type of paint resulting in the cracking. Will post a few more pics later. Thanks for all the advice and comments. Fellow bass players may wish to check out Talkbass.com. The 83'P is actually a Fullerton 83' 62RI. Killer bass.

Jim
 
83Pbass said:
Well it seems bass players have a penchant for TR's. Like Ampegs and Fenders.

The TR when at running temp shows oil pressure at 30-50 psi and around 15 psi at idle. From what I've read 50-60 is desirable. Took it to a local mechanic he said the engine sounds fine and appears to be getting plenty of oil. Basically told me not to worry. Have put~150 miles on the car no problems. A paint guy told me that most likely someone over sprayed the hood with the wrong type of paint resulting in the cracking. Will post a few more pics later. Thanks for all the advice and comments. Fellow bass players may wish to check out Talkbass.com. The 83'P is actually a Fullerton 83' 62RI. Killer bass.

Jim
Click to expand...

The paint thing happened on one of my cars. It wasn't the paint, it was the improperly applied primer.
And, Oil Pressure? The old cast iron 6 Chevys had babbitt bearings and only 15 lbs oil pressure most of the time. There's a few still running! I wouldn't worry about it so much. PJ
 
83Pbass said:
The TR when at running temp shows oil pressure at 30-50 psi and around 15 psi at idle. From what I've read 50-60 is desirable. Took it to a local mechanic he said the engine sounds fine and appears to be getting plenty of oil. Basically told me not to worry.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have a good mechanic there. 30 psi at high rpm does sound a little low, but if you are running say 50 psi at 3000 rpm when warm that is pretty typical. I'm also down to the 15 psi or so level at low idle under those conditions.
 
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