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TR2/3/3A 1956 TR3 fan pulley alignment is off

I think this has been pretty much covered but...(My 2£)
There was a guy here in San Diego in the 40's - 80's that
made his living rebuilding water pumps. That's all he did..water pumps.
When I was into pre-WW2 GM cars he helped me a lot, so when I took
the pump from my 1960 TR3A to him he said "Oops, this is an aftermarket,
but you're OK because the pulley will line up. Some of the aftermarket
shafts, although the total length is correct, have been machined with an extra 3/16" of thread and 3/16" less to the shoulder." "If you have one of those, you will need to put a 3/16" spacer behind the pulley or 1. It won't line up and 2. The pulley will drag on the pump body casting." This from my notes when I was doing the restoration on my TR in 1989. Boy, I sure miss the parts "fixers" as opposed to the parts "re placers"
Frank
 
6TTR3A said:
"If you have one of those... The pulley will drag on the pump body casting...

Indeed, every aftermarket pump I have used required some grinding on the pump body to get clearance for the stock pulley. Makes me think these (body fouling pulley & misalignment) are 2 aspects of the same problem -- though even an original pump w/ original pulley doesn't line up well.
 
Thanks everbody for the great advice, ideas, and pictures. I did understand what Randall was saying about the spacer between the bearing and the pulley, not on the end of the shaft. My idea of a sleeve that would go over a portion of the threads and tight against the inside of the pulley may not be needed. I have a tendency to over think things. I'll go with the spacer to improve the alignment, and put this to rest. Now to make some shims so I can get the crank bolt to seat at 10&4 at TDC.
 
mallard said:
My idea of a sleeve that would go over a portion of the threads and tight against the inside of the pulley may not be needed.
OTOH, it wouldn't hurt, as long as you be sure to leave some space (so the washer pulls up against the pulley not the spacer).

BTW, with the original pump & pulley shown above, the pulley came off very easily with a puller, and I was literally able to push it back into place with my hands. So while some of them may be very tight, certainly not all are. Likely just manufacturing tolerance; precision fits were expensive, so the engineers avoided them as much as possible (which is partly why you find so many tapers and shims in these cars). There can also be some differential expansion between the shaft & pulley, that might make it looser (or tighter) at temperature extremes.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Now to make some shims so I can get the crank bolt to seat at 10&4 at TDC. [/QUOTE]I assume you are aware that they are available ready made (TRF P/N 108494 $1.25 ea), and are only required if you are going to hand-crank the engine to start it.
 
TR3driver said:
...BTW, with the original pump & pulley shown above, the pulley came off very easily with a puller...

Since a pulley puller was mentioned, I'll note that is is pretty simple to make a puller that knocks down small for travel. Okay, not much point in that unless you carry a spare pump but I take that too.

PumpPuller1.JPG


PumpPuller2.JPG


waterpump.JPG
 
Geo Hahn said:
unless you carry a spare pump but I take that too.
And I thought I carried a lot of spares!
:devilgrin:

Seriously, have you ever had to change a water pump pulley on the side of the road? In 30+ years of TR ownership, I've only had one pump start to weep a bit, and it wasn't much. No telling how long it had been leaking, but I topped up the radiator on Tuesday then drove it to/from work the rest of the week, topped it up once more, then 200 miles round trip to Moss to pick up a pump. That had to be around 1990, maybe 150,000 miles ago and the pump is still good ("repro" in the photos above).
 
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