• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

1275cc engine question

Thanks Doug!! Just what I needed!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
The 1275 needed the extra strength of the solid casting. If you get into these blocks there are 3 different 1275s. The early one is the thin flange. The flange to the oil pan is noticable thinner than the later blocks. Later blocks have a thicker flange, and the last have no oil galley above the center main. Each improvement was for the racer who at very high rpms were actually flexxing the block. This isn't a problem for a street motor, they all are good.
 
I used to have a chunk of a thin flange 1275 block, both halves of the center main journal, with a piece of crankshaft still in it. Went through the bottom of the oil pan, it did!
Talk about loud, expensive noises!!
Jeff
 
Most of the 1275 block also have a pie shaped hole below the center main web in the block, the 67-68 EN40B crank blocks were solid there, not really that important, but racers do try to find the earlier solid center main bearing web blocks, I got two of them in my personal stash. EN40B crank command goofy prices, I sold a nice STD./STD EN40B crank last year for $500! I wasn't going to sell it, but the guy knew I had it and just kept upping his offer, until I couldn't say no, the EN16T crank is still a good crank, even for racing, in fact some racers feel the EN40B crank is too brittle for racing.
 
If you have the block with the hole in it that Hap mentions, (as most of us do), gently radius the edges with a small sanding drum to minimize stress risers in this area.
Jeff
 
Hap, if you think $500 is silly for the inline engine, you'll laugh out loud to learn that the transverse EN40B crank (at standard grind) will easily command close to $1000. It doesn't drop to $500 until it looks like the crank is (or will require) a 0.020 grind.
 
I didn't know that there is a thin flange with the hole above the center main and also one without the hole. The one I have does not have the hole and I thought they all were that way. There is also a thick flange block without the hole above the center main. Mine came out of a midget that was about 1,000 from the end of production.
 
Hap, that's what I'm saying. The EN40B transverse crank alone will go for $1k if it's still in spec and not reground.
 
Back
Top