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1275 street peformer, any hot rodders

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mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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building my Bugeye and doesn't seem that alot of people here are really into street performance upgrades. I cann't find a whole alot on web either. Please provide links if you know some. Brakes and suspension especially since I am building a V-8 Bugeye also

The follow is an outline of what I am thinking doing to my bugeye
1275 engine
3.73 rear gears
Rivergate 5 speed conversion
Eaton 45 supercharger
researching pistons,head and cams, need help !!!!
Header
Upgrade to front disc brakes
S/bar 3/4 rear ,5/8 front
maybe tube shock conversion and rear spring lowered

I need advice, if anyone knows of a good street set up, and or has tried any of above with good or bad results

My objective is a finish project I can hit the Interstate with and drive alot. that is why I want gears chosen, hoping the supercharger with take up the slack. Will not be used for any type of competion.
 
Hap Waldrop is the main A-series engine guy on this part of the board and he'll surely see your thread in a short while.

I don't understand what you're saying about your plans. In paragraph 1 you say you're building a V8 car, then you say you're using a 1275. Are these two separate projects?

Remember on a street machine that you'll want to balance performance with driveability and reliability. The more go-fast changes you put on the engine, the more it will cost, the shorter it will live, and the more it will take to drive the car.

For a street 1275 machine, I'd buy a big-valve 12G940 head, do a modest degree of porting, and a 3-angle valve job. Enlarge/shape the ports to match your intake and exhaust.

For a cam, I've been happy with the Swiftune SW5 which will give you a fairly good increase in low-end torque which is better for acceleration than a cam that puts most of its additional power at higher RPM.

I like twin SUs, some may suggest other carburetors. If you stay with twin SUs, you may want to work them over a bit for narrowed butterfly shafts and perhaps a bit of tweaking of the intake manifold. K&N filters are often used in place of stock filters with a corresponding change in needles... which you'd likely want anyway after you've done any other changes.

You may want to fit a lightened flywheel so the engine will rev easier. However, take off too much and you may find a less than smooth idle.

Finally, buy some of Vizard's books on modifying the A-series engine. A lot of what you will want to know is documented there.
 
Howdy neighbor. X2 on Hap's Acme Speed shop. He can build
what you need and gives straight forward advice.
X2 on Vizard's book for performance tuning an A Series motor.
Curious as to what V8 you are putting into one of your Bugeyes.
I've seen some YouTube clips of V8 BEs, a SBC on a drag strip
and a Hemi monster.
We love pics here.
 
I was able to find a cam for my 1275 turbo project that states that it is built especially for turbo/supercharger applications. I bought it from one of the onlnie parts suppliers but they basically source it from Elgin Racing. Everything for the cam was marked Elgin when it arrived. The cam set me back $300 +50 core and then I went ahead and spent the extra $100 to get an extra high flow oil pump that's marketed towards the turbo crowd since the turbo needs an oil feed too. Click here to see the complete grind sheet for the turbo Elgin Racing Cam.

Obviously I'm still building so I can't attest to the performance of this cam but I'm hoping it lives up to the billing.

I'm also running a Morrisservice Datsun 5-speed and I currently have 4.11s but I think the turbo will necessitate a lower rearend to help stay in the turbo range longer. With the 4.11s I'm afraid I'll be shifting just when the turbo is starting to spool so I want to have a little more in the legs. That shouldn't be an issue with a supercharger as you should have a linear boost across the RPM band.

If you look around enough out there, you'll find turbo/super specific pistons, and turbo/super specific head gaskets that have a fire ring milled into the block but you'll definitely need deeper pockets than I.

And finally, as for carbs, it depends on what comes with your supercharger kit. It looks like it might be the HIF44 which is the same as the MG Metro Turbo setup that I'm using. If that is the case, there is a Fuel Injection conversion that I'm working currently working on. For me, I couldn't have slept well spending all this money and then bolting on a crusty old carb and trust it to keep from burning up all the hard work I had just done.

Hope that gives you some ideas!


JACK
 
I think Hap has built a SC engine for an MGB, and he would be able to help advise you on piston choice to get the CR you need for a 1275. You won't get ultimate power from a 1275 SC, but the wide range of the powerband makes for big fun on the street.

I just got back from a club event/drive. On the way home I took the interstate to get home before dinner. I set the cruise control on 80mph. It held steady in 5th gear (with 3.9 rear end) and never got above 195 degrees during the 50 mile trip. (The air temperature was in the low 90's).

My suspension is stock, and I have disc brakes on the front. The important thing is to keep everything in top shape if you are planning on driving aggressively.
 
I'm driving a 59 bugeye with a turbocharged 1275. The pistons are from Avonbar Racing of England(web). Omega Turbo pistons, though they have better. If you're going to run pump gas, consider your CR and go for at least 11cc dish. I'm running Megasquirt fuel injection control and ignition control. A Ford 1.9L TB to a Rayjay turbo. 44lb/hr injector, Vizard advised cam from David Anton at APT for street turbo use. Big valves in a 12G940 head(skip the rimflow$$). No noticeable improvement from 1.5 roller rockers, back to stock 1.3 for now. The turbo oil pump is a good idea, as is a big oil cooler and an aluminum radiator.
Remember that whatever advice you get on all this cooling being "overkill" will be coming from people making south of 100 HP.
With ignition control indexed to boost, you can dial the timing back for each pound of boost. Adding a wide-band O2 sniffer like the Innovate LC-1 will let you richen the mix to any desired A/F ratio at any boost pressure.
The ability to run 23 BTDC/12.4:1 AFR at 10lbs of boost will save you lots of money on pistons. The ability to run 44 BTDC/15.5:1 AFR when coasting will save you gas money.
Supercharging will put you well above 100HP, so the little differences with high cost goodies(roller rockers, rimflow) are overkill for street use. Boring more than 40 over is likewise a life shortening waste of money.
All in all, its great! Good for everday street use, went 4080 miles to LotO and back, great mileage and HP up the gazoo. All Miyatas and many tuners will eat your dust.

Glen Byrns
 
This months issue of Hemmings Sports and Exotics has a very good article about 1275 upgrades. (it might be "last months" by now)
 
I hadn't really given much thought to your desire to add a supercharger. If you haven't already bought the hardware, you may also want to give at least a little consideration to buying a used Metro Turbo setup from the U.K. There is a lot of literature out ther on how to fit that to Minis with the 1275. Fitting it to a Spridget may (or may not) be possible due to space constraints and the intake and exhaust manifolds would likely have to be modified or changed. However, it should cost a lot less than a new supercharger.
 
Having dabbled with forced induction ... I can safely say that it is addictive.
 
A fairly low buck (relatively- compared to new hardware anyway) method of street rodding a Spridget is to lighten/balance all your engine rotating parts (flywheel, crank, rods).
Combine that with a ported/polished head, some minor carb rework, and a decent cam and you can get rapid response from your engine. Which is what most of us are after. The instant torque response makes the engine feel bigger than it is.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
Having dabbled with forced induction ... I can safely say that it is addictive.
Click to expand...
Yes this is my problem, I purchased a new 03 Cobra and put 75K miles on it before I sold it. so yes I am sold on superchargers.
Thanks for all the leads and information. it takes me about a year of daydreaming a set up before I buy any parts so I know exactly what I want before I buy first part
 
For the forced induction you may find a used Metro Turbo setup for less money than a new supercharger. I have no first hand experience with them but I know they are available from sources in the U.K. and of course... eBay U.K.
 
So much info here that I can only agree to. My BE has a Moss SC unit with a motor built by Kent Prather out of Topeka KS. for street use and pump gas. It is the best of both worlds. Since I put it in 3 yrs ago I've put over 10,000 miles on it, including a trip to Elkhart Lakes, Wisc about a month ago. The SC does give a nice blend of low rpm power and not run out of power at higher rpms. The lightened flywheel again is a great compromise for a street engine. I've thought of a 3.7 rear diff, but am really happy with a 3.9 and just haven't tried one out. 80 mph is a tic above 4000 rpm. On my trip I ran at 75, seemed a happy compromise. Miles and smiles.
 
There are a couple of guys from the Topeka area with almost identical supercharged Bugeyes. Here's one at the Spridget 50 last year. Engines were built up by Kent Prather, but I'm sure that Hap can fill you in on a good compression and cam combination. I don't think either of them has the 3.7 rear gear though, works just fine with a 3.9 and the 5 speed. As far as suspension upgrades, those are pretty basic unless you want to get into a lot of custom fabrication. Just install good uprated pads on the front discs, something like EBC green or yellow, poly bushings, and a good anti roll bar and you'll be fine. I wouldn't recommend a rear bar for the supercharged car, perhaps for the V8 depending on final weight up front. Some modified Spridgets on the British V8 Newsletter photo area and a couple of V8s under construction being discussed off and on in their forum. https://www.britishv8.org/British-HotRod-Photo-Gallery.htm or https://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,5291
 

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Glen_B said:
With ignition control indexed to boost, you can dial the timing back for each pound of boost. Adding a wide-band O2 sniffer like the Innovate LC-1 will let you richen the mix to any desired A/F ratio at any boost pressure.

Glen Byrns
Click to expand...

Glen, can you tell us a little about the LC-1, how it was to install, and what kind of carbs you have?

I've always wanted a wide band setup, this looks interesting.
 
Glen's car is a fuel inject turbocharged monster.

To install an LC-1 is pretty simple. A local exhaust shop can weld the bung in for you to install the sensor, then the rest is simple wiring.
 
kcbugeye1275 said:
So much info here that I can only agree to. My BE has a Moss SC unit with a motor built by Kent Prather out of Topeka KS. for street use and pump gas. It is the best of both worlds. Since I put it in 3 yrs ago I've put over 10,000 miles on it, including a trip to Elkhart Lakes, Wisc about a month ago. The SC does give a nice blend of low rpm power and not run out of power at higher rpms. The lightened flywheel again is a great compromise for a street engine. I've thought of a 3.7 rear diff, but am really happy with a 3.9 and just haven't tried one out. 80 mph is a tic above 4000 rpm. On my trip I ran at 75, seemed a happy compromise. Miles and smiles.
Click to expand...

which transmission is in your car, stock or 5 speed conversion?
 
Rivergate conversion with a 210 tranny. Easy to do and no cutting on the body. As you can see, my BE is a driver, I've finnished it, it is in nice shape, but not perfect. Can only tell you the looks, interest, and interaction it gets when I have it out. My buddies claim that fuel stops take a while, just for the interaction, seems everyone has had one, had a friend or family member that has had one, or simply are not afraid to ask what it is. Is fun!
 
Yes I am hoping for a fun car to take up to the mountians for week-ends. The mountians are 5-6 hours away and 90% interstate so I want the car to be able to handle 70-75 MPH 5 hours at a time and then the hills of North Carolina.
 
Lots of very good info on BMC's great little engine but consider what some on the list are doing with a 4AGE toyota motor or what has been done with a mazda rotary!
KA
 
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