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1275 oil pan removal

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Look closely at the original poster's photo, his head has had the plug replaced and apparently secured with two screws and then surfaced. It should be fine and the rest of the head looks good too.
 
Good catch. I see that now.
 
If you look at the image it looks like that has been done, you can see two welds either side of each plug then milled off it does look like a good job thats why I am at a loss. I am wondering if I am going down the wrong path , has anyone had issues with the oil pressure relief valve that could cause this???
 
Hi sgg,

The oil pressure relief valve is not going to have anything to do with blowing the head gasket between 2 & 3 or the fact that the engine was overfilled with oil. Replace the head gasket with a good quality composite gasket and run the engine long enough to burn all of the oil out of the exhaust system. 😀

Just curious, what oil pressure were you seeing on the gauge?

Rick
 
Thanks, I think about 70 but don't quote me on that. I did wonder if it was just a cheap copper gasket that failed with the extra oil load.
 
sgg said:
I forgot to ask what about the stuttering when she gets hot???
Click to expand...
In my case, the blanking plug recession, the sputter was due to pressure bleeding across #2 and #3 (and especially under load).
BTW, my oil pressure is often at 70psi when cold.
 
Not sure where you are at with this, but, this just showed up on my facebook Midget group:

I’ve had serious issues with my ‘67 Midget smoking intermittently and using oil. Recently we drove 100 miles and used up 1.5 quarts of oil. However I have terrific compression and it doesn’t smoke when it’s cold.
I figured I would look at the PCV and see if there was any evidence of a bad diaphragm. Upon opening the unit, I could see that oil had clearly gone through it and was being drawn into the intake manifold. I examined the rubber, the piston/needle and the spring and they seemed fine.
It was only when I started to reassemble the pieces that I realized that centering the piston/needle was not so easy and that if it wasn’t perfectly centered when the diaphragm and lid were put back on - it would not seat properly - and the PCV would therefore suck oil at high vacuum.
After several attempts - I got the piston/needle centered with the rubber diaphragm in place and the top set in place with the spring clip.
Drove 95 miles on the interstate over the last two days - no smoke and not a drop of oil used.
Pretty happy with the easy fix for a problem that has dogged my car for several years.

1635608584541.png
 
Had the same experience though not due to the diaphragm (or centering of the interior) but not necking down the intake to this unit. I seem to recall Gerard posting a recommended diameter so-as to not over-due the suction. I eventually just pulled the PCV off my 1275.
 
Hi there, thanks for the reply, mine is the later style with cannister being part of the timing cover, I am going to put the bottom end back together and then pour some parafin down the head and do a leak down test, unless someone can recommend another way of testing the valves??? I'll reverse back up slowly haha
 
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