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110-amp Bosch Alternator Upgrade

A couple of comments:

Darryl's MGB is of the utmost quality in all respects, and has driven it more miles in the past couple of years than most of us drive our daily drivers - of any type. At the shows we've been at together Darryl has taken first place and I second, or vice-versa.

Darryl's a new member, invited by me to join the forum. I'm astonished, and frankly embarrassed by some of the responses I've read here.

He mentioned the reasons for the alternator on his website, and here. To emphasize something he mentioned: the alternator he's employing will provide around 55amps@2000rpm, 50amps@2000rpm for the 96amp build (compared to 14amps@2000rpm for the 40-amp alternator). The theory, I think, is with that extra overhead you're not taxing the alternator if you run a lot of power while the engine is idling. That theory may indeed be a debatable issue, but what isn't is that the extra overhead certainly isn't hurting anything.

Want to talk about high amperage? Take a look at the battery in your car. An Exide-72 group-24 battery is capable of producing 835 amps for 30 seconds at or above the freezing point. I haven't seen anyone complain about the ability of the battery to burn up the car though...and why is that? Because the battery, like the alternator, will only provide the current asked of it. The various circuits in the car are protected by fuses (or circuit breakers), the source of their power is irrelevant.

So then - is the stock wiring in the car capable of supporting a continuous draw of 110-amps through a single circuit? No it isn't. I dare say it also isn't suitable to support Adam's planned stereo system. For that matter neither is the internal wiring harness in the Saturn the 110/96-amp alternator came out of. It's for that reason you should run a dedicated high amperage, protected line to your equipment from the alternator/battery positive voltage terminal(s). At that point the wiring in the car is a moot point.

Finally - is a 110aH/96aH alternator really necessary? Perhaps not, but neither is adding a V8 engine or a high power stereo system, or twin SUs, or a Webber carb, or A/C, or a Supercharger. Those options are available for those who chose to use them for their own reasons - and like the alternator are completely valid alternatives to the stock car.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by mrbassman:


Lets see 87 amps ---times 12 ---thats 1044 watts. You are consuming 1080 watts with the radio and amp alone hmmmmmm. You might ought to consider that 110 at least.

[ 01-27-2004: Message edited by: mrbassman ]
<hr></blockquote>
well i think it will be enough, and i wont have the big driving lights on all the time and im tring to use as many led as possible so that should help a bit
 
Well, I don't think its necessary; however, if my postings came off with the wrong attitude, I apologize...I just can't fathom putting one that big on any of my cars & so made the comment...chuck & I then joked on one another as we all do...I expect everybody to slam me when they see what we're doing to my V8 project - that's their perogative...but, when modifying any car, one cannot have thin skin!

...& when I first read the post, it looked like one of the advertisements that Basil is hot about....when I went to his profile & saw that it was his first post, that made me wonder even more....when I went to his site I saw a beautiful car but I still wondered about the ad thing (I'm trying to be real careful about my used parts business on the BBS itself even when somebody asks about a part that they need that I have for sale)...
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by adam90009:

well i think it will be enough, and i wont have the big driving lights on all the time and im tring to use as many led as possible so that should help a bit
<hr></blockquote>

OK, Adam, unless you run that all the way up, you will probably be OK. I was just saying that because the rule of thumb in electronics is to over design by 20% and never run at that max rating. And they have to consider absolute max conditions. Just be sure you protect everything with the right size fuses. My son neglected to fuse his stereo and the large main 12v wire shorted against the car chassis and he had a frantic time trying to stop the fire.

Thanks for the info Darryl. I have bookmarked your site for my info. Nice site, by the way.

Sorry everyone, if some of my statements were taken offensively. I didn't mean them that way. Just trying to help.
Bob

[ 01-28-2004: Message edited by: mrbassman ]</p>
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by tony barnhill:
...I still wondered about the ad thing (I'm trying to be real careful about my used parts business on the BBS itself even when somebody asks about a part that they need that I have for sale)...<hr></blockquote>

No problem and thanks Tony: FWIW your "business" doesn't bother me in the least. Some people come on here and blatantly try to use the site as an advertising tool. You, on the other hand, are trying to be more helpful than anything (that's my impression anyway). In that regard I don't think Bas has any complaints
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by mrbassman:
My son neglected to fuse his stereo and the large main 12v wire shorted against the car chassis and he had a frantic time trying to stop the fire.<hr></blockquote>

That sounds all too familiar! We acquired an airplane a few years ago that had a couple of open, unshielded spade-lugs poking out of the glareshield that inadvertantly got bumped together. They immediately welded themselves together creating a huge hot bundle of wires that melted through part of the wiring harness going to the radios. Turns out the >>DELETED<< that put the wires there ran the +24v lead directly to the +24v input to the main bus with no circuit breakers or fuses.
shocked.gif


I usually try to include at least an in-line fuse holder for radio installations in the car, putting the fuse up near the battery if possible. All the HF rigs I've had that came with cables seemed to have the fuse on the radio-side for convenience, but I always had a vision of the fuse staying intact while the +12v line is pinched somewhere against the chassis.
rolleyes.gif


A good source for information on installing audio equipment and figuring out current draw for amps and radios, etc is https://www.bcae1.com/caraudio.htm
 
Originally posted by aerog:
[QB]



I usually try to include at least an in-line fuse holder for radio installations in the car, putting the fuse up near the battery if possible. All the HF rigs I've had that came with cables seemed to have the fuse on the radio-side for convenience, but I always had a vision of the fuse staying intact while the +12v line is pinched somewhere against the chassis.
rolleyes.gif


The bad part about it was we bought the fuse but but for some reason, in a hurry or what, it wasn't put in there. It also melted some of his harness and his water overflow container.
I guess you are a felow ham if you are or have run HF rigs. I have done that in the past but not lately.
Bob
 
Piman:

We are not talking voltage here. The discussion is regarding ampreage. Amperage being the draw of power and will change as required by switching on lights, heater blower etc. Voltage does not change.

This is why your turn signals will not blink when using brakes and running lights and other equipment. The draw is more than the alternator can produce. The voltage does not change it remains a 12 volt system.

[ 01-28-2004: Message edited by: One Fast MGB ]</p>
 
All I can say is WOW!!! Very nice site. I've bookmarked it and will visit often!

I really like the nice touch with the reinforced hoses under the bonnet! What is your source for them?
By the way, the upgrade looks clean and professional. Nice work.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by tony barnhill:
chuck...you may be correct...especially with the way they're modifying the tr5unk to hold a kicker stereo! But, 110? Maybe 60 but not much more!!

Actually, I'm surprised that ad got past Basil!

[ 01-27-2004: Message edited by: tony barnhill ]
<hr></blockquote>

I don't understand the advertisement thing. I don't sell any MG related items. If there is an advertisement on my site please let me know. Although is sounds as though you feel you should be able to advetise here. I'm sorry, but I am sure there are valid reasons why you can't. But you did get the point across that you do sell MG parts. Well done.
 
The crossflow head allows cooler running temperatures, higher compression ratios with out fear of detination, and better mid-range power due to higher gas velocities. Not much benifit on the top end unless its been ported.
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[ 01-28-2004: Message edited by: David Kiehna ]</p>
 
Well said David. One other benefit is the SU intake manifold will accept up to HS8's. I am running HS6's on mine with excellent results. I did not shave the head so I am running the stock compression ratio. Since the head and intake manifold are aluminum they are considerably lighter than the OEM components. I have been running mine for 4 years now and have logged on many thousands of trouble free miles
 
I see that you have several upgrades. Are you able to attribute any enhancements directly to the head? I really like the idea and in theory it seems like it would help keep things cooler, and therefore enhance reliability.

With the miles you put on, it seems like you're the guy to ask.
 
Daryl, I for one found it very interesting and plan to steal, er use the idea on my car, instead of the delco I was gonna use. what color ignition wire did you use? and Tony, now you know why that battery cable I made you ain't too big
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Chuck Cougill:
Daryl, I for one found it very interesting and plan to steal, er use the idea on my car, instead of the delco I was gonna use. what color ignition wire did you use? and Tony, now you know why that battery cable I made you ain't too big<hr></blockquote>

Thanks Chuck: The hot leads from the starter on my '80 are brown. I hope it works as well for you as it has for me.
 
chuck...I finally got around to picking that battery cable up & moving it the other day - sucker must weigh 25 pounds!
 
Anyway....

I've always been curious about the cross-flow head. Can you, One Fast, based on your experience, or anyone else give the low down on advantages, etc. to that head?
 
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