100-4 interior

[rossco]

Starting to trim out. I assume panels first, carpet second. Any input?

 

[stevebn2bj7]

Carpet first, panels second. The body trim panels need to overlay the carpeting.

 

[AH100M]

Do the gearbox tunnel and the tunnel extension (piece between the tunnel and the firewall) first. It's the most difficult, determines how the floor carpets fit and will make the rest of the fitting seem simple!

 

[rossco]

Thanks for the quick responses. Bill. (AH100) Tell me about the cockpit surrounds. Mine are a little rough. Yours are a good look. Everything looks great. Who did the seats?

 

[AH100M]

Actually, that's not my car. I didn't have a good photo of the carpeting. Here's my car:


I did all the interior trimming myself. Most of the kit was from Austin-Healey Spares in the UK.

The cockpit trim pieces can be re-finished, it they're not to bad, by using successive finer grades of sandpaper, starting with 220 and finishing up with 1000 or so. You can then get them clear anodized or do what I did, spray them with satin lacquer. Looks original to me.

 

[AH100M]

I'm trying to attach another photo but the system won't let me. I'll try again later!

 

[AH100M]

Here's the other photo.

 

[rossco]

Nice, Bill. Your car looks great. Is the color bronze or is my computer miss reading it? I'm going to work on my surrounds. They can be better than they are, I wasn't sure how to treat them. Thanks for the tip. I don't know who could anodize them in my neck of the woods.

 

[simon1966]

I agree, really nice job Bill. My surrounds are all the original ones from the car and have numerous nicks and scars on them. It sounds like it will be a bit of a challenge to get them as nice as yours.

 

[AH100M]

The color is Reno Red, the original color of the car. The picture of the car in the driveway is better. Here's a better one:



You may need to attack the surrounds with a file first. It can be a lot of work. The key is to keep the re-work level. In other words, if the deepest scratch is 1/16" deep then the entire surface needs to be reduced by 1/16". I found it easier to use coarse sandpaper on a rigid block which kept the surface level. You're actually reducing the size of the trim pieces by the depth of the deepest flaw but it won't be apparent when you're done. At least if the deepest flaw isn't 1/2" deep or so!