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100-4 interior
- Thread starter rossco
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stevebn2bj7
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Carpet first, panels second. The body trim panels need to overlay the carpeting.
AH100M
Jedi Trainee
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Actually, that's not my car. I didn't have a good photo of the carpeting. Here's my car:
I did all the interior trimming myself. Most of the kit was from Austin-Healey Spares in the UK.
The cockpit trim pieces can be re-finished, it they're not to bad, by using successive finer grades of sandpaper, starting with 220 and finishing up with 1000 or so. You can then get them clear anodized or do what I did, spray them with satin lacquer. Looks original to me.
I did all the interior trimming myself. Most of the kit was from Austin-Healey Spares in the UK.
The cockpit trim pieces can be re-finished, it they're not to bad, by using successive finer grades of sandpaper, starting with 220 and finishing up with 1000 or so. You can then get them clear anodized or do what I did, spray them with satin lacquer. Looks original to me.
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Nice, Bill. Your car looks great. Is the color bronze or is my computer miss reading it? I'm going to work on my surrounds. They can be better than they are, I wasn't sure how to treat them. Thanks for the tip. I don't know who could anodize them in my neck of the woods.
AH100M
Jedi Trainee
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The color is Reno Red, the original color of the car. The picture of the car in the driveway is better. Here's a better one:
You may need to attack the surrounds with a file first. It can be a lot of work. The key is to keep the re-work level. In other words, if the deepest scratch is 1/16" deep then the entire surface needs to be reduced by 1/16". I found it easier to use coarse sandpaper on a rigid block which kept the surface level. You're actually reducing the size of the trim pieces by the depth of the deepest flaw but it won't be apparent when you're done. At least if the deepest flaw isn't 1/2" deep or so!
You may need to attack the surrounds with a file first. It can be a lot of work. The key is to keep the re-work level. In other words, if the deepest scratch is 1/16" deep then the entire surface needs to be reduced by 1/16". I found it easier to use coarse sandpaper on a rigid block which kept the surface level. You're actually reducing the size of the trim pieces by the depth of the deepest flaw but it won't be apparent when you're done. At least if the deepest flaw isn't 1/2" deep or so!