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TR2/3/3A Leaking O.D. section of Transmission

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Redoakboo

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I am finishing the restoration of a 1954 TR-2 long Door. I have the engine running, haven't got the slave cylinder set yet, so can't get it in gear. I have been working with some of the Brit members in a effort to sort this problem.

But, the transmission only has 27k miles so I am assuming the inners are O.K. My problem is the O.D. section of the transmission leaks bad. I have replaced the gasket on the brass plug and new O rings on the lever shaft, little help. It is coming out all of the gaskets. No shop help is available in Orlando so I thought I would try and tackle the gasket replacement my self . I do have the Laycock overhaul manual, and have watched several U-Tube videos.

Any hints before I undertake this gasket replacement would be greatly appreciated. Maybe any videos you might have? Dick
 
If it is leaking in this area the adaptor plate is probable distorted. If the 2 long studs are used to pull the OD on to the gearbox it is easy to distort the adaptor plate.
Getting the splines in the OD section aligned with ehe gearbox shaft can be difficult and you have to hold the oil pump plunger down so the pump cam can pass over the roller.

David
Leak s.jpg
leak from Pas side.jpg
 
All as David says.
and it’s not a case of doing up the bolts you can see outside.

the bolts securing the plate to the gearbox it within the od assembly.

you MUST remove the bolts securing the od THEN EQUALLY release the tension on the long studs. There are 8 springs under compression in there.


 
Hamish Racing said:
All as David says.
and it’s not a case of doing up the bolts you can see outside.

the bolts securing the plate to the gearbox it within the od assembly.

you MUST remove the bolts securing the od THEN EQUALLY release the tension on the long studs. There are 8 springs under compression in there.


Click to expand...
Thanks, I found the u-tube that includes your attachments. As the leaks are only in the OD section, looks like it going to make my job alot easier.

Dick
 
I would not take anything for granted, like the internals being good because of the mileage. As a minimum, replace the input seal, output seal, counter-shaft bearings, all gaskets, and synchro rings. I recommend using permatex 51813 on all contacts for the overdrive, including the gasketed surfaces. As always, here is one of my "how to" threads. The OD will be towards the end:

General Tech - TR2/3 Gearbox Rebuild

This thread will be another one of my long drawn out "How to's". Again, I'm not trying to replace the manual, just adding pictures to the dull verbiage. Anybody feel free to jump in with other tips and tricks as you see fit. Gearbox inspection and assembly is a bit of an art, and no tip can...
www.britishcarforum.com www.britishcarforum.com
 
Redoakboo said:
Thanks, I found the u-tube that includes your attachments. As the leaks are only in the OD section, looks like it going to make my job alot easier.

Dick
Click to expand...
But they are linked as far as the oil is concerned.
you need to seal both sides of the plate - after ensuring that it is flat and straight.
elin yakov rusty beauties on YouTube have done a rebuild it’s worth looking at.
Be careful with the bolts and studs - it’s only aluminium and you can strip the threads.
 
When I tore down my OD transmission, there was a rather thick, soft gasket between the adapter plate and transmission. The new one, in the gasket set, was a useless thin paper gasket. Similarly, the gaskets for the brass plug were rather hard and didn't conform well to their mating surfaces. I used those gaskets, although with plenty of sealer. Still, I got some leaks; three guesses where they were.

If I were to do this again, I'd get some thick, soft gasket material and make my own. I suspect that better gaskets and sensibly used sealer would solve the problem.
 
When I fixed my OD leak I used the gaskets that I got from Rimmer as patterns and cut new ones from Karropak gasket material 0.025" thick. The gaskets from Rimmer had a couple of extra holes in them.

When I checked the adaptor plate it has a 0.015" distortion around the holes that the long bolts go through. The sealant pattern indicated the OD pulled up tight at those bolts and the top bolts but not across the bottom edge of the adaptor plate to OD.

Used a thin film of Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker 51813 on both sides of both gaskets. I spread the gasket maker with an acid brush to get a very thin coating on the gasket.

David
OD adaptor and gaskets.jpg
Adaptor plate with DTI.jpg
Adaptor plate with DTI 2.jpg
 
In the last image you can see a void in the sealant. There is a similar void across the bottom edge of the adaptor plate.
I did use a new plate from Rimmer.

David
 
Sarastro said:
When I tore down my OD transmission, there was a rather thick, soft gasket between the adapter plate and transmission. The new one, in the gasket set, was a useless thin paper gasket. Similarly, the gaskets for the brass plug were rather hard and didn't conform well to their mating surfaces. I used those gaskets, although with plenty of sealer. Still, I got some leaks; three guesses where they were.

If I were to do this again, I'd get some thick, soft gasket material and make my own. I suspect that better gaskets and sensibly used sealer would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Steve, when you tore down the OD section, is that the only area you replaced the gaskets? The U-Tube illustrates the procedure, which doesn't appear that difficult. Did you just open the OD section, with the 8 springs, and just replace the gaskets ? Do you have the P/N for the adapter plate? I have purchased many parts from Rimmer. /
 
I have made the adapter plate&accumulator gaskets from Victor Reinz gasket material. It feels soft and flexible. Also, use a Hylomar type sealer from Permatex (I don't recall the number.
Berry
 
titanic said:
I have made the adapter plate&accumulator gaskets from Victor Reinz gasket material. It feels soft and flexible. Also, use a Hylomar type sealer from Permatex (I don't recall the number.
Berry
Click to expand...
I have several tubes of the Hylomar sealer. Do you have the P/N for the adapter plate?

Dick
 
It was one of the items I picked up when the shop that I worked at downsize. They threw in (not literally) a height gauge free.

David
Height gauge.jpg
 
very nice. Starting out with accurate measuring equipment only leads to accurate measurements and fewer surprises during assembly. Frank
 
Awesome...I have been using an old granite countertop, but a nice granite flat reference is high on my list!
 
Hamish Racing said:
But they are linked as far as the oil is concerned.
you need to seal both sides of the plate - after ensuring that it is flat and straight.
elin yakov rusty beauties on YouTube have done a rebuild it’s worth looking at.
Be careful with the bolts and studs - it’s only aluminium and you can strip the threads.
Click to expand...
I need to only replace the O rings on either end of the rod going through the OD section on my TR-2. The manual has a good pic of replacing the O ring under the lever side. But, nothing showing replacing the one under the solenoid cover? The seems are O.K. it is only leaking out bof neither end of this rod. Dick
 
Seems that there is a seal behind the setting lever on the passenger side of the OD that is held in place with a roll pin. You may be able t replace that.
The one on the solenoid side you just have to remove the plate and replace the "O" ring.

David
1629432146943.png
 
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