TR2/3/3A Bleeding the Slave Cylinder

[Madflyer]

It is true the book calls for the SC to be on the trans side of the plate. I put mine as shown and with a flexible hose I can hang the SC down and open bleeder and remove all air. A longer rod my be needed for full travel

 

[Redoakboo]

It is true the book calls for the SC to be on the trans side of the plate. I put mine as shown and with a flexible hose I can hang the SC down and open bleeder and remove all air. A longer rod my be needed for full travel

As shown? No pic?

 

[sp53]

If everything is mounted correct and most the air is out, try giving the clutch one pump for pressure to see if that lets it go into gear, like you are pumping brakes. I would avoid gridding--- can chip teeth. If that does not work try a ½ inch longer rod, but there should be enough thread adjustment. The older Spitfires did not have threads on the rod and they had a little piece to put onto the rod until the clutch wore in some.
steve

 

[Redoakboo]

If everything is mounted correct and most the air is out, try giving the clutch one pump for pressure to see if that lets it go into gear, like you are pumping brakes. I would avoid gridding--- can chip teeth. If that does not work try a ½ inch longer rod, but there should be enough thread adjustment. The older Spitfires did not have threads on the rod and they had a little piece to put onto the rod until the clutch wore in some.
steve

Will do, what is Gridding? Is your SC plate on the back or front side of the bellhousing? Dick

 

[Madflyer]

Pic 1 added turnbuckle to adjust to max travel SC on motor side of plate

 

[Redoakboo]

Pic 1 added turnbuckle to adjust to max travel SC on motor side of plate

I'm sorry, I don't understand the pic?

Dick

 

[Madflyer]

I'm sorry, I don't understand the pic?

Dick

When you mount the SC on the motor side of the plate that adds 1/2 inch that needed to get max travel to clutch arm so you may have to extend shaft. I cut the shaft and threaded cut shaft end at clutch pin end. rounded the other end at SC same as supplied OEM. I then could extend rod to required length. This mounting allows one to remove SC without taking the HY line off and you can bleed line without pumping peddle. Just drop down SC and easily open bleeder until no air is seen tighten bleeder and remount SC. The bleeder must be on top and can be hard to work.
The math is as follows; your Master cyl is 1 inch bore the SC in 3/4 inch bore. so one inch of master Cyl travel equals 1 1/4 inch SC travel you need every bit of that to disengage clutch. The above pic by others shows mounting. NOTE the early TR had a 3/4 Master CLY and 3/4 SC

 

[Redoakboo]

When you mount the SC on the motor side of the plate that adds 1/2 inch that needed to get max travel to clutch arm so you may have to extend shaft. I cut the shaft and threaded cut shaft end at clutch pin end. rounded the other end at SC same as supplied OEM. I then could extend rod to required length. This mounting allows one to remove SC without taking the HY line off and you can bleed line without pumping peddle. Just drop down SC and easily open bleeder until no air is seen tighten bleeder and remount SC. The bleeder must be on top and can be hard to work.
The math is as follows; your Master cyl is 1 inch bore the SC in 3/4 inch bore. so one inch of master Cyl travel equals 1 1/4 inch SC travel you need every bit of that to disengage clutch. The above pic by others shows mounting. NOTE the early TR had a 3/4 Master CLY and 3/4 SC

When you mount the SC on the motor side of the plate that adds 1/2 inch that needed to get max travel to clutch arm so you may have to extend shaft. I cut the shaft and threaded cut shaft end at clutch pin end. rounded the other end at SC same as supplied OEM. I then could extend rod to required length. This mounting allows one to remove SC without taking the HY line off and you can bleed line without pumping peddle. Just drop down SC and easily open bleeder until no air is seen tighten bleeder and remount SC. The bleeder must be on top and can be hard to work.
The math is as follows; your Master cyl is 1 inch bore the SC in 3/4 inch bore. so one inch of master Cyl travel equals 1 1/4 inch SC travel you need every bit of that to disengage clutch. The above pic by others shows mounting. NOTE the early TR had a 3/4 Master CLY and 3/4 SC

You reference a pic I can not find?

 

[CJD]

I am at a loss of ideas. Not enough throw at the slave can only be one of 3 possible conditions:

1) Air in the system.
2) Improper adjustment of the slave and/or master pushrods.
3) A problem in the master valving.

 

[Redoakboo]

I am at a loss of ideas. Not enough throw at the slave can only be one of 3 possible conditions:

1) Air in the system.
2) Improper adjustment of the slave and/or master pushrods.
3) A problem in the master valving.

John,
Would the larger SC for the Girling System work on my 54 TR-2? I do have the Girling rear end and brakes?

 

[CJD]

We need Randall! The TR2 slave is shorter and appears to have a fatter diameter. The later Girling is longer, and appears to have a lesser diameter. I also do not know if the bore for the TR2 MC is the same as the later separate cylinders used for the Girling systems. So...it is possible, if the bores changed, to come up with a combination which would have too much or too little travel. But I do not have the information about the actual bore sizes to know which combinations would work and which would not.

 

[Redoakboo]

We need Randall! The TR2 slave is shorter and appears to have a fatter diameter. The later Girling is longer, and appears to have a lesser diameter. I also do not know if the bore for the TR2 MC is the same as the later separate cylinders used for the Girling systems. So...it is possible, if the bores changed, to come up with a combination which would have too much or too little travel. But I do not have the information about the actual bore sizes to know which combinations would work and which would not.

Randall was a BIG loss to the Brit Forum. He solved many problems for me over the years; wish you lived next door, because you have been a big help to me.

Dick

 

[sp53]

It should work the way it is--- maybe crappie, but should work. IIRC this started with a new suspected bad master that got rebuilt and nothing has worked ever since. It is probably the master. Is it possible to use the brakes master for the clutch? Can you hillbilly a temporary line swap from brake to clutch.

steve

 

[Redoakboo]

It should work the way it is--- maybe crappie, but should work. IIRC this started with a new suspected bad master that got rebuilt and nothing has worked ever since. It is probably the master. Is it possible to use the brakes master for the clutch? Can you hillbilly a temporary line swap from brake to clutch.

steve

I could just swap the lines at the MC. I will look at it. Several people have suggested I let the slave cylinder hang down and gravy bleed. Do you think the larger TR-3 SC would work on my TR-2? Noticed they are on sale at Moss for $14.?? Dick

 

[Graham H]

Just take the master cylinder to a brake and clutch repair shop and ask them to check it out for you and have them explain how to set the pedal clearances.

Graham

 

[RGK]

I would think any good transmission shop could diagnose your issue.

 

[sp53]

Dick if the master has enough pressure, it should push the slave and release the clutch . The system is simple. It sounds like you have adjust the slave for maximum travel and that did not do it. I would take another look at the master. Get a new rebuild kit and see what might be wrong inside the master.

steve

 

[Redoakboo]

Just take the master cylinder to a brake and clutch repair shop and ask them to check it out for you and have them explain how to set the pedal clearances.

Graham

I wish we had a good brake and clutch repair shop in Orlando, they don't exist! I have searched far and wide.

Dick if the master has enough pressure, it should push the slave and release the clutch . The system is simple. It sounds like you have adjust the slave for maximum travel and that did not do it. I would take another look at the master. Get a new rebuild kit and see what might be wrong inside the master.

steve

I have rebuilt the clutch side, recently. Think I will try swapping the lines next.

 

[sp53]

I am curious how the swap works out. Personally I have never owned a triumph with both cylinders in one housing; it should work both cylinders are the same a tr3a????????