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How to remove the lever control?

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PHulst

Jedi Hopeful
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As you can see below, I found the shifter bushings that were missing. :smile:
Anyone know where I can purchase a new circlip, or what size to get, so that I can reuse these if possible?

The real question is how does one go about removing the lever control? I have removed the stop bolt (loose in photo), and cleaned all the gunk from the threaded end on the exterior of the transmission cover.
Using a threaded bolt into the end it does not slide out easily, so I stopped. Any suggestions on how to remove it so I can have the lever control machined and reinstalled?

The worst part of the job was the dowel in the bottom corner which didn't want to release the cover at all. Other than that it went well.

Patrick

P.S. I've looked in the service manual in the gearbox section as well as looked through Randy's pictures, and could not find the answer there.
 

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The shifter receiver on my gearbox was frozen onto the shaft. After lots of soaking with PB Blaster and bolt removal, I used the threaded hole with a bolt and a few washers ( one thick one large enough for the shaft to clear inside ) to act as a puller or extractor as the bolt was turned in. I put a wooden block between the receiver and the side cover. If your receiver was free on the shaft, you only have to get the shaft out of the casing by the bolt.
Bob
 
British_Recovery said:
If your receiver was free on the shaft, you only have to get the shaft out of the casing by the bolt.
Bob
Click to expand...
Bob,

The shifter receiver (lever control) moves quite freely. I just need to get the shaft out of the case.
So I put a bolt into the threaded end, and pull harder?

Patrick
 
I use a slide-hammer with the appropriate sized thread on the end. It'll walk it right out.

Here, I was getting ready to pull the pump body out of the overdrive unit:

IMG_3187.jpg


Making up the correct sized adapter:

IMG_3193.jpg


And success!

IMG_3204.jpg


The shaft in the remote control tower is the same thing, only I'll bet it comes out easier than that pump body!
 
Interesting that there appear to be three (3) halves of the bushing in there; I guess whoever was trying to put that lever in was really having a hard time of it!

attachment.php


By rights, the circlip(s) should be somewhere in the bottom of the gearbox too, unless said guy was trying the fit the lever using only grease to hold the bushing halves to the end of the lever__a sure recipe for disaster if I ever heard one!

Theoretically, yes, you could find only the circlips in some catalog somewhere, but why bother; just buy a new bush. While the side-shift xmsn used the 2/3-piece bronze type, and the later center-shift box used the nylon one, they are completely interchangeable. The nylon one, in my opinion, is easier to coax into its final (correct, as opposed to the bottom of the sump) position.

My advice, after you get that worn piece repaired/replaced, is to fit the lever to the side cover BEFORE you put the side cover back on the box. It's a little tricky to get the interior cover back on, but completely doable__easier than putting the lever and bush into the xmsn! It helps to slacken off the handbrake adjustment__I do this by turning the square-ended brake adjustment fully counter-clockwise__so that you can pull the lever nearly straight up. I also have better luck introducing the cover past the lever (in 1st or reverse gear?) from the LH side of the car, though I do have a smaller diameter Moto-Lita steering wheel; the stock wheel may not allow that (perhaps the adjustable one does, pulled out or pushed in to its extremes...?).

Good luck!
 
Randy,

Any slide hammers have a 1/4-28 threaded end for the shift rod?

Yes, 3 bushing halves. Who knows what happened to the other circlip and the other half. It may have stayed up top and been pulled out at one point. There was a nylon one sometime in the car's recent life too.
No pieces/parts laying in the transmission, though, so I am not to worried.
 
1/4-28 would be a small slide-hammer for sure, but over the years, I just keep making up "the adapters" as I need them. I have about four (4) slide-hammers, of various heft, and I'll bet it wouldn't take a very big one to remove that shaft. See how long of a 1/4-28 bolt you can get locally, and devise a weight to put on it to make your own. A foot (12") of all-thread would be ideal, but NF sizes are harder to find, unless you live near a big city (MI still has a few...) and can go to a specialty bolt/bearing store.

British Recovery's suggestion is good too, but prying requires more effort than tapping; maybe between the two suggestions, you'll come up with what works best for you!

Good luck!
 
Yes, I'm trying to mentally think of what size washers and how many I'll need.

The length of allthread also came to mind. Odds are the Fastenal store has some.
 
No prying involved - start the bolt only a few threads in, with the washers as spacers, stacked so that the large open washer is closest to the casing. Then tighten the bolt to draw out the shaft. Add more spacers as needed.
Bob
 
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