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TR2/3/3A Fuel line heat shield

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Randall, I'm interested in your ideas for a filter housing to use TR6 elements. Could you provide more detail? The TR6 elements are quite large, I believe about 7 inches in diameter. Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
Well, I've not actually made any measurements, so I may be off-base here. But I think that by offsetting where it mounts to the carbs, a filter housing similar to that used by TR6 could be made to fit a TR3. The housing would have to sit up and to the rear.
https://trf.zeni.net/TR6bluebook/45.php?s_wt=1024&s_ht=640

Or, another possibility that I've heard mentioned might be to cut into the inner fender, and get fresh air from the wheel well.
 
Thanks Randall? BTW, I see Rock Auto and O'Reilly's carry WIX brand of TR6 air filters. They are pretty much in the same price range as Moss.
Regards,
Bob
 
Lukens said:
attachment.php

Been a while, but I believe I simply swapped the float lids (with floats attached). I should add that I've never had a problem with "vapor lock".
As for the filters: https://www.englishparts.com/produc...ml?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla
Click to expand...

Just off hand...it looks like this is the only arrangement that would logically work with these carbs. Just swapping the bowl tops wouldn't work. Likewise, I don't think it would be practical to try it on the stock H6's, unless you plugged and tapped the bowl fittings...or ran a couple more feet of rubber hose.
 
FWIW:

regarding Bob's original post:

warmed my car up for 30min. At idle, to take a laser readings on my metal tube fuel line:
note: my current fuel line location is not the standard location, but it is probably hotter( in one location) than standard, located right behind the thermo. Housing.

temp. Gauge reading 185++ ( about 1/2 way from the 5 to the next mark.) (normal for mine)
my tube comes off a pressure regulator on driver side wheel well, not parallel to the engine block:
registered 100 degrees at tube/hose junction.
behind thermostat sender: approx. 160-170 (I use a make shift thermal sleeve of split fuel line)
opposite side of thermo housing: 155-165

just for the sake of measuring:
Forward bowl cover tube housing: 100
top of "u" tube: 95
middle of "u": 95. ( I have a carb heat shield in place)

also, I found I had to put a shield between the manifold & the FL to get an "accurate" reading.
& when my puller was operating, I found it also drove the heat up artificially.

it's about 88 degrees in the garage & the hood was up & open the whole time(fwiw)

......can an you tell I'm bored today?
 

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In the past, dealing with vapor lock, I learned that the brand and grade of gasoline makes a huge difference. One time I used clear fuel line to see what was going on. At only 105 degrees I could watch a bubble appear in the fuel line...seemingly out of nowhere...and expand to the point there was no visible fuel left in the line. At that point I confirmed I was dealing with vapor lock. Guy, the temps you are showing on your IR thermometer are significantly above the temperature I visually confirmed I was getting vapor lock.

In that particular incident, it turned out, there was nothing at all wrong with the fuel line configuration or engine. That year it was abnormally high temperature for early May. I deduced that the oil companies had mixed their gasoline for lower temperatures, not predicting temps to reach 30 degrees above average. A tank of big oil-company premium fixed the vapor lock that time around.

I have heard all kinds of rumors about how the oil companies "do" or "don't" mix for predicted temperatures. I can't comment on any of that...but I can say that the gasoline mix has a definitive influence on vapor lock.
 
I have heard all kinds of rumors about how the oil companies "do" or "don't" mix for predicted temperatures. I can't comment on any of that...but I can say that the gasoline mix has a definitive influence on vapor lock.
Click to expand...

thx for mentioning that.
i hadn't even considered that aspect of vapor lock.
though with oil this cheap, once again, makes you wonder why they continue with the ethanol blending.
one would think all the complexities of the blending process would cost more than straight refining.
 
GTP1960 said:
thx for mentioning that.
i hadn't even considered that aspect of vapor lock.
though with oil this cheap, once again, makes you wonder why they continue with the ethanol blending.
one would think all the complexities of the blending process would cost more than straight refining.
Click to expand...

But then we'd be putting corn farmers out of business, like the war engine, we can't stop war because it would make unemployment rise. Weird "logic" in this world. Stupid politicians (with ownership in the oil biz I'm sure) at their best.

Hey, is that ethanol from non-GMO corn?
 
CJD said:
In the past, dealing with vapor lock, I learned that the brand and grade of gasoline makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...
Certainly true at one time; but I don't believe it is any more. The EPA now has very tight controls on what can be sold for automobile fuel, including both seasonal and regional variations that must be followed.

There were several justifications for adding ethanol; IMHO none of them really apply now. But as with so many government functions, there is a "ratchet effect" : once they've done something, it is very difficult to get them to stop.

Besides, in spite of the many advances in extracting petroleum from the earth (eg fracking, economical processing of oil shale, etc), we are bound to run short eventually. The more we know about alternative fuels when that happens, the better. It makes sense to me to be at least somewhat prepared for that day, unlike the oil shortages we went through in the 40s, 70s & 80s.
 
Besides, in spite of the many advances in extracting petroleum from the earth (eg fracking, economical processing of oil shale, etc), we are bound to run short eventually. The more we know about alternative fuels when that happens, the better. It makes sense to me to be at least somewhat prepared for that day, unlike the oil shortages we went through in the 40s, 70s & 80s.
Click to expand...

I'm all for that, every time I'm in bumper to bumper going thru Atlanta or some other big place, I wonder how long it can possibly last.
i may have this wrong:, but back in the early to mid 90's when we were really getting fired up(no pun intended) about alternative fuel sources, focusing on wind , solar & hydrogen fuel cells mostly; I read the govt appointed and funded the big oil boys to spear head the research...........isn't that like the wolves guarding the sheep?
 
At the risk of sounding political (which I definately am not) I'd probably prefer the "big oil boys" to the EPA.
 
Mike62TR3 said:
I picked this one up recently to install on my TR3A. The folks at Alexander Racing Enterprise were helpful. Check out https://www.the-vintage-racer.com/i...buretor-components/product/33-tr3-heat-shield

Mike E. 62 TR3A
Click to expand...

Mike - thanks for the link. Please let us know what difference the shield makes. I'm interested also in the website quotation "This will improve performance as it indirectly increases horsepower by deflecting manifold heat away from the fuel bowls."

Thanks.
Tom
 
I bought one of those heat shields from ARE (via TRF). No way it would fit with the linkage on my 56 TR3 without some hacking of the shield. I left it off as I was more interested in getting the car back on the road. Cheers, Mike
 
I was getting a stumble coming off idle on really hot days after sitting at a stoplight (long stop lights here).

Looking around the lumber room I saw I had a length of roof flashing left over from a project:

1-13-1.jpg


Made that into a heat shield for the TR4. No idea how much horse power I gained but it possibly lessened the stumble (did a couple of other things at the same time and since).
 
mgedit said:
I bought one of those heat shields from ARE (via TRF). No way it would fit with the linkage on my 56 TR3 without some hacking of the shield. I left it off as I was more interested in getting the car back on the road. Cheers, Mike
Click to expand...


i had a issue with the front linkage with the one i bought. They worked with me immediately to cure it.

i will let you know next week if it works out. did you give them a call?

Mike E. 62 TR3
 
Yes, I called and spoke to them, but did not hear back. Right now not interested in installing. Will call again if I decide to add to my car. Cheers, Mike
 
MIke, the 1st version of the TR3 heat shield needed some redesign/alteration. Joe Alexander of ARE will either give you the details on how to modify it or most likely offer to swap yours out. Just a very minor alteration to clear the linkage. Joe is a great guy.

mgedit said:
Yes, I called and spoke to them, but did not hear back. Right now not interested in installing. Will call again if I decide to add to my car. Cheers, Mike
Click to expand...
 
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