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Remove Crank Nut

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You might not want to heat the nut, for fear of changing the hardness of the metal. Impacts are amazing in how simple they can make a difficult job. Many 1/2 impacts don't have enough force for these types of jobs. A 3/4 or 1 inch impact usually has a lot more power, especially if one has a big enough air supply and a large air hose to feed it with maximum air. (Earlier this week, I removed a couple of wheels from a highway trailer with tandem wheels. They had not been off for a long time, and it took a 1 inch impact with 1600 ft pounds of torque to break the nuts loose. I bought the wrench to knock the bolts loose on crawler pads, and it comes in handy for all kinds of things.)

When replacing the nut with an impact, be careful not to overdo the torque as overtorquing can happen very quickly and the results are not pretty.
 
Granted, it's been a while, but I'm thinking the engine has to be raised to get enough clearance to slide the damper off.

Be sure to post what the final outcome is, so anyone searching in the future will know what ultimately worked for you, and if indeed the engine has to be raised or not.

I wouldn't think that a small amount of heat would affect the temper, and the expansion/contraction may help to loosen the bond. I wouldn't get carried away though, and just stick with the heat obtained with something like an induction tool, or MaPP gas torch, as opposed to an oxygen/acetylene rig.

Good luck!
 
I think you have to raise the engine to get the balancer off even without the nut. I certainly didn't want to go through the 'extra' work, but was advised by a long-time Healey racer that you have to.

Also, while it's off, and if you're not in a hurry, it would be a good idea to get the balancer rebuilt. After all, it probably has 100K+ miles and nearly 50 years on it. I've had balancers come apart--not on a Healey, fortunately--and it ain't pretty. These guys: https://www.damperdudes.net/ did mine. Price was reasonable and turnaround was quick, but they use a silicone rubber so the balancer won't look quite 'original,' but I didn't much care about that.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
I think you have to raise the engine to get the balancer off even without the nut. I certainly didn't want to go through the 'extra' work, but was advised by a long-time Healey racer that you have to.

Also, while it's off, and if you're not in a hurry, it would be a good idea to get the balancer rebuilt. After all, it probably has 100K+ miles and nearly 50 years on it. I've had balancers come apart--not on a Healey, fortunately--and it ain't pretty. These guys: https://www.damperdudes.net/ did mine. Price was reasonable and turnaround was quick, but they use a silicone rubber so the balancer won't look quite 'original,' but I didn't much care about that.
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I recently had my balancer refurbished and removed it without removing the nut & pulley. It was necessary to raise the engine, though not as much as for removing the nut and pulley. Oddly, the screws holding the balancer to the pulley are coarse thread.
 
steveg said:
I recently had my balancer refurbished and removed it without removing the nut & pulley. It was necessary to raise the engine, though not as much as for removing the nut and pulley. Oddly, the screws holding the balancer to the pulley are coarse thread.
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On a 100/6 and earlier 3000s, the damper can be unbolted from the pulley, but I'm thinking the later cars, BJ8s, have an all one (1) piece damper.

Bob, you have a BJ8, can you confirm?
 
Hi Bill,

I believe Randy is correct that the balancer can be separated from the pulley and removed without undoing the crank bolt. Just to make sure, and jog my memory, I checked my BJ8P1 and found the multiple attachment bolts.

Also, I would not suggest the use of a flame to apply heat to the nut. However, if you do, make sure the balancer is removed prior to eliminate any possibility of damage to its rubber. I am still in favor of using an impact wrench and suggest seeing if you can borrow or rent a 3/4" unit.

Let me know if I can help,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Guys, thanks for the additional info. My 1 11/16 wrench just arrived, so I will be working on this over the weekend. My car is a "mid-run" BJ7, and the harmonic balancer does bolt onto the pulley. I don't plan to remove it until I have the nut off. I am not certain yet if I will need to raise the engine. The car is already up on jacks, so it wont be a problem if I have to. I'll let you know what it takes to get it off.

Thanks again
 
Well, starting the work today. After receiving my new 1-11/16" combo wench and trying to put the boxed end on the nut, I can inform that the engine must be jacked up slightly. WIP.
 
I'm at the same step with crankshaft nut removal and need some support. Good access, 3/4 impact and old-school combo wenching have yet to be effective. Leaking front seal, weeping timing chain cover gasket and suspect timing chain tensioner failure, some engine detailing and an excuse to do some challenging work on my early BJ 7, I'm committed to finishing the job myself. This engine has the two piece pulley / harmonic balancer and the two were easily separated. Tab was folded back and the stubborn nut is now soaking in PB blaster. I'll post some pics of the job.

Moss Motor has an on-line tutorial on nut removal. Good advise on TC cover installation - do the final tightening after pulley is in place to allow "centering" - and timing chain tensioner operation. But before all this can be done, this nut has to come off first!

Gonzo
62 BJ 7
 
I once used a chisel and a lead knock-off hammer to loosen the nut. It worked and I only had a small chisel blade cut into the nut.
 
Advise appreciated. No chisel work for this car, just a bigger hammer. Impact wrench I have is 500 ft/lbs, looking into a 700 or 800 to do the job. Redi/speedi sleeve is planned. Have caliper to accurately measure diameter in three areas along worn section for correct sleeve size. This was done previously during engine rebuild in '92. so some "chiseling" will be done to remove the old sleeve but not the nut which is still soaking with a fresh can / dose of PB blaster.

Alternatively, I'm fabricating metal strapping - attached to frame and pulley - to keep engine from rotating for the combo wrench approach. Either way the nut is going to come off today.

Gonzo.
 
Guys, spent the day trying to break the nut free with no success either. Having been spraying the nut with PB Blaster, have not tried to heat the nut.

I did have to raise the engine to get the balancer off, which came off very easily and was in good condition. Built a bracket to lock keep the engine from rotating. Used the combination wrench, which is like 20" long with a cheater bar on top, and pounded it with a baby sledge hammer. No luck. Hitting it so hard I am afraid I will damage the motor mounts.

Plan B, which is to rent an impact wrench, is probably next. Maybe with some heating.

I appreciate all of the suggestions.
 
Larger impact wrenches, whether 3/4" or 1", need a lot more air than a small air line suitable for a 1/2" impact can deliver. To get meaningful capacity out of the large air impacts, a short 3/4" air line (hooked to a big compressor) helps a lot. A big impact can put out close to 2000 foot pounds of force if it has enough air. Breaking something becomes a concern at that point. I like to use them for breaking bolts loose where it doesn't matter if the bolt snaps.

Lately, for driving 10 and 12 inch lag bolts located too far from a good air source to use an air impact, I have been using an electric 1/2" impact. It effortlessly drives these bolts, without first drilling pilot holes, into pine timbers. Skeptical at first, I now have great respect for the electric impacts. All I have is an inexpensive Mastercraft unit, sold by Canadian Tire. An electric impact may be worth a try if you don't have access to a big air impact.
 
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