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Gerard
Luke Skywalker
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Fred, those are shims to align the crank pulley to the cam pulley. It would have nothing to do with your leak.
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Front engine oil leak
- Thread starter TulsaFred
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Fred, those are shims to align the crank pulley to the cam pulley. It would have nothing to do with your leak.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
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I can believe they got it wrong in under a minute. The bolts he is using are NOT the right ones at all. While the bottoming out issue is correct, late 1098 and all 1275 blocks (the one he is demonstrating is a 1275), use countersunk socket head screws. The reason being that a hex head bolt will fowl the dual row chain sprocket. Try dry fitting your timing gears using hex help bolts if you doubt it. Hex bolts are used on early engines with the single row sprocket. He issuing a single row sprocket for some reason, so it's not an issue in this demonstration. I don't know what that front plate if from as the ears for the motor mounts are missing. Apparently, that's a Mini block, indicated by no flange at the rear of the crank. I thoought those still used a double row chain, but with the tensioner, I guess they went back to single row.
As a side note, the dial indictor should be placed in the center of the piston, not the edge, and since there is some dwell at the top of the stroke, you need to roll a few degrees before and after TDC to find true TDC. :grumpy:
It you have a double row chain, which you should, you can see how close the chain is to your front plate. There is no way it would clear the hex head bolts.
OP
TulsaFred
Jedi Warrior
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Yes, the allen screws I have turn out to be correct/original, however, the issue he discussed in the video is definitely my issue.
Turns out those two screws were slightly loose, either due to vibration or perhaps I didn't torque them up correctly prior to assembly.
I tested it with some thin 3 in 1 oil. I put the oil in the little area between the sump drain holes. In a minute or two it leaked through exactly as before. Then I wiped dry and tightened the two screws. Tested with the oil again and seems like that was it. Very minimal leak after sitting 10 min. I torqued them up some more and that seemed to stop it completely.
I wonder if I need to pull off the front plate now? Maybe I should just put on thread locker and tighten the screws as much as possible with the allen wrench. I may also add a little RTV in that space between the drain holes.
Turns out those two screws were slightly loose, either due to vibration or perhaps I didn't torque them up correctly prior to assembly.
I tested it with some thin 3 in 1 oil. I put the oil in the little area between the sump drain holes. In a minute or two it leaked through exactly as before. Then I wiped dry and tightened the two screws. Tested with the oil again and seems like that was it. Very minimal leak after sitting 10 min. I torqued them up some more and that seemed to stop it completely.
I wonder if I need to pull off the front plate now? Maybe I should just put on thread locker and tighten the screws as much as possible with the allen wrench. I may also add a little RTV in that space between the drain holes.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
Offline
I think you'll be fine tightening them down, but I would clean the threads well and use some thread locker on them. If you could loosen the plate a little and get some sealant in there with a palette knife, that probably wouldn't hurt, but you may be OK anyway.
OP
TulsaFred
Jedi Warrior
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SD Bugeye: That's how mine acted. See the photos I posted. If the screws do not draw the plate up tight, the leak traces down the back of the front plate over that inch or so of plate located at 6 o'clock. It then collects at the the bottom of the plate which is flush with the bottom of the timing chain cover. Then it drips from there.
OP
TulsaFred
Jedi Warrior
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Yes, it only dripped after I turned it off.
What was happening was that after the engine shut off, the oil drained down and settled in the bottom of the timing cover. That little bit that didn't drain back through the drain holes had to sit against the area long enough to slowly seep through. When it was running I suspect the flow prevented it from sitting against the spot.
What was happening was that after the engine shut off, the oil drained down and settled in the bottom of the timing cover. That little bit that didn't drain back through the drain holes had to sit against the area long enough to slowly seep through. When it was running I suspect the flow prevented it from sitting against the spot.
SD Bugeye
Jedi Warrior
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Well it looks like I'm set for a project now.
but at least now it sounds like you have found the source of the issue.
That and the mystery of my ability to only pull 3.5 gallons from my gas tank. After an aggressive romp with my buddy tying to chase me around some corners guessing the pickup tube is slammed sideways. I now have some things to fix.
but at least now it sounds like you have found the source of the issue.
That and the mystery of my ability to only pull 3.5 gallons from my gas tank. After an aggressive romp with my buddy tying to chase me around some corners guessing the pickup tube is slammed sideways. I now have some things to fix.
OP
TulsaFred
Jedi Warrior
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