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TR2/3/3A Transmission tunnel gasket?

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J

John_Progess

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My transmission tunnel rests above the floor by about 3/16" all the way around. Do I need some kind of gasket there? What are others doing for some kind of seal? Thanks and have a good day!

John
 
TR4 had a gasket originally, but TR3 did not. You can try using the TR4 gaskets if you want. The TR3 manual mentions "compound" but it's not clear which one.

I just put a bead of silicone caulk, then pull it up with the bolts. The bolts pull the floor up until they meet the tunnel. In some cases, I've substituted longer bolts, so they will reach.
 
I used a TR4 weather seal from TRF on my '60 TR3A.
a few cuts in the weather strip makes it fit well along the floor panels.
However I believe the TR4 firewall Union is different.
the TR3 tunnel/firewall junction is a flush mount requiring several pie shaped cuts in the seal to match the arc.
(the tr4 tunnel slides into the firewall space)

Guy
 
I have been doing what Randall advised for years and it works like a charm. I even go so far as running a small bead around / under the emergency brake boot. I have had to subsequently removed the tunnel and was able to clean up the surfaces quickly to re-install the tunnel and re-caulk. This is a good solution to the problem.

Frank D.........
 
I was about to use the silicone sealer method that Randall and others have suggested when I remembered that I had several yards of black closed cell foam about 3/8" thick. I was going to use it for padding under the vinyl on all the interior panels that I rebuilt but decided that I like the appearance better with just the vinyl, no padding. I figured it wouldn't hurt to try cutting my own sealing strips from the foam and it worked out fine. I checked it to make sure that it was truly closed cell and it would not absorb any water. The gaps were larger in some sections so I was able to double it up. I've got a ton of the foam left over so if you want to try it I'll be glad to send you some, a freebie. It's certainly not doing any good collecting dust in my shop. Here's a couple of pics...

DSC01968a.jpg DSC01972a.jpg

Rick...
 
Rick,
do you know how the material is going to stand up to heat and oil in combination? It may well be better than some of the rubber ones that looked like they melted over time.
Charley
 
Charley...

Good point on the oil, I hadn't tested that. I did consider the effect of heat on the material though. I have a 1000w heat gun that I use for the application and maintenance of the covering on R/C models. I subjected a patch of the material to continuous heat for several minutes with no apparent adverse effects. I don't expect heat to be an issue in this case.

Regarding your point on the oil, I went ahead this afternoon and submerged a patch in motor oil. After about 3 hours it simply wiped away. None was absorbed, nor did the material seem to be effected in any way. I left it in the oil at the shop and will have another look tomorrow.

Rick...
 
The rails are the standard issue from Moss. 801-400 and 801-405. I did have to 'coax' them into shape so they would not bind and move freely for the full range of motion. Also, since the floor pan is not completely flat in that area, I found it necessary to shim the rails with different washer configurations at the various mounting points to keep the bottom section as true as possible.

Rick...
 
Rick,
I would be interested in some of your foam. My gaps seem fairly consistent at about 1/4". I would be glad to pay shipping. Let me know how much and how I can pay you. Thanks and have a good day!

John
 
John...

This one is on me. The folks on this forum have saved me a bundle of time, heart ache, and MONEY so it's pay back time. Just send me a PM with your shipping info including the phone number because FedEx needs it. I've been using FedEx lately because my daughter has launched a 'start-up' with an app that consolidates all parcel tracking and alerts on a smartphone app. FedEx is the carrier in the US that she's currently working with for testing so guess who gets to do some testing. The upside is that I can use this as an excuse to buy all sorts of goodies on line just so I can track them. :smile:

BTW, I left the sample in the oil for 24 hours and there were no ill effects. Also, the thickness is 1/8" rather than the 3/8 I quoted before. I'll send you plenty. It layers and compresses easily. Where I needed multiple layers I used contact cement to hold the layers together during installation. I did not cement it to the floor panel so the tunnel could be removed easily if necessary. One other point. I used the tunnel itself as a template for the curves rather than the floor pan.

Rick...
 
Man your floor pans & tunnel are impressively clean!
FDA approved to use as a dinner plate.
 
CJD said:
Curious about the tunnel. It has a lot fewer bolt holes. Is it the fiberglass tunnel?
Click to expand...

The tunnel is the original. Both floor pans had to be replaced so some of the mounting holes in the tunnel had to be "adjusted" a bit.

Rick...
 
RC64 said:
The tunnel is the original. Both floor pans had to be replaced so some of the mounting holes in the tunnel had to be "adjusted" a bit.

Rick...
Click to expand...

I would have sworn that you were missing a lot of bolt holes in your tunnel. I just went back and reviewed my pics, and you have just the right number. What's the first thing to go with age?? I forget...!
 
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