• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Rad for 56TR3

Share this page

mgedit

mgedit

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Just getting ready lo pull my rad to have it checked and possibly recored. Came across this vendor and wondered if anyone had any experience with them. Have sent an email asking for additional details but this seems like a reasonable price if quality is good. Looks like this is copper rad with crank hole. What are experiences with having rad recored compared to new rad in copper or aluminum? Cheers, Mike

https://empirebritishcar.corecommerce.com/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-TR4-RADIATOR-400412-p2139.html
 
That is pretty cheap. I had my original recored and though I forget the exact amount, it was certainly more than that.
 
ISTR that's about what I paid to have mine recored a couple of years ago. However, I've been told since then that the core they used before is NLA and that they would have to order a custom-made core today. He thought the cost would be comparable, but wouldn't know for sure unless I actually ordered one.

I was told that having the crank hole cuts cooling capacity by about 10%. They just block off the tubes above and below the hole, so that section of the radiator doesn't do much for cooling. For me, it was an easy decision to leave it out.

FWIW, I also had them reinforce where the extension meets the main tank. I've always had trouble with that joint cracking and leaking (partly no doubt because I don't support the extension while removing a hot radiator cap). They laid a length of 1/8" soft copper "refrigeration" tubing into the joint and soldered it to both the tank and extension. Although I've not had trouble with the upper hose fitting, I had them do it as well, just as extra insurance. Seems to be working so far. The repair is almost unnoticeable, unless you look closely.

DSCF0027_crop.jpg~original
 
Thanks for the feedback. Good suggestions for reinforcements too. Cheers, Mike
 
Where are these people located?

That does sound awful "Inexpensive"?!?!?!?!?

Russ
 
According to info in link I posted:

Empire British
5775 Venture Park Dr.
Kalamazoo, MI. 49009

Cheers, Mike
 
Well I doubt if the upper and lower tanks are made the same with the rounded corners and made out of brass, unless I missed something. The last one I had done, they rodded out the channels on an original radiator for 185.00 and it was the best radiator I had for cooling. I used a yellow fan with that radiator and the engine stayed cool. I am not sure if the original radiators had more channels for cooling or what, but that set worked well.
 
Apparently they moved from Ohio to MI within the past year or so
https://web.archive.org/web/20130908111302/https://empirebritishcarparts.com/Contact-Us-5.html

Nothing wrong with that, of course, just another point of information.

From the photo, it appears that they even reproduced the horizontal fins instead of the zig-zag fins used on modern radiators. The copper color inside the fins also makes it appear that the fins, at least, are copper/brass. Not likely IMO that they would go to all that effort to reproduce the original, and use aluminum for the tanks. But of course that still doesn't prove anything.

8339.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 8339.jpg
    8339.jpg
    113.7 KB · Views: 101
Got a prompt email reply from Empire British Car with no answer as to materials but rather that the radiators are out of stock at present. Tom
 
Tom. You did better than me. I got no reply to my email. Thanks for letting us know. Cheers, Mike
 
Mike - After my front end prang a year ago, the body shop replaced my radiator with a new one for my 1958 TR3A marked "Made in China" on the shipping carton. It came with the crank hole from Moss in New Jersey. It has been in my TR for the past 1700 miles with no overheating problems. Up here in Canada, we don't need to worry about 10% extra cooling. I have a Kenlowe 12" diameter fan installed as a pusher and during this past summer, I never had an over-heating problem and never had to turn on the electric fan all summer.

I have been very satisfied with it. The repair shop had it shipped to Montreal by US Parcel Post to save on customs brokerage fees etc. as charged by - for example - UPS.

Cheers

Don
 
Don Elliott said:
Mike - After my front end prang a year ago, the body shop replaced my radiator with a new one for my 1958 TR3A marked "Made in China" on the shipping carton. It came with the crank hole from Moss in New Jersey. It has been in my TR for the past 1700 miles with no overheating problems. Up here in Canada, we don't need to worry about 10% extra cooling. I have a Kenlowe 12" diameter fan installed as a pusher and during this past summer, I never had an over-heating problem and never had to turn on the electric fan all summer.

I have been very satisfied with it. The repair shop had it shipped to Montreal by US Parcel Post to save on customs brokerage fees etc. as charged by - for example - UPS.

Cheers

Don
Click to expand...

hey Don,

a couple of questions regarding Chinese radiators;
is it aluminum?- ( my mechanic feels like aluminum is the only way to go if you have overheating problems)
is it painted? ( will painting it effect cooling by holding heat in)

I purchased a Chinese aluminum/with Ele. Pusher fan, radiator(no crank hole) on eBay for about $400., though I haven't received it yet.

I am dealing with overheating in my 1960 tr3A daily driver.
"correct" is now taking a back seat to functional!

Best regards,
Guy
 
My new radiator was painted black. It came in a very strong cardboard box. It is not aluminium. My only overheating problems happened in stop-and-go heavy traffic and that's why I installed the electric fan in 1992. Since then, I have driven 113,000 miles in my TR - and the only time I needed the fan on was if there was a blockage on the highway due to road repairs or waiting at bridge congestion.

In SC, I imagine you suffer hotter weather than we do up here.

If you spray paint a steel rad, make sure the paint is not too thick. This will reduce the heat transfer between the cooler air rushing through and removing the heat from the over-painted fins.
 
It looks to be the same that Moss sells . Its a good part and made like the original . I had no issues as far as fitting or performance and ran one in my TR3 with no problems . $375 is a good price , right around Moss' wholesale.
 
Back
Top