In addition to a good hoist, you'll need some way to control the angle as you lift the engine & transmission out. I have "made do" with a logging chain through the hoist hook and a big punch to lock the chain in place; but some kind of tilt mechanism makes the job significantly easier.
The engine stand is less critical perhaps, but still a nice thing to have.
I am effectively color-blind as well, since my 56 still has the original harness in it and, as noted, the colors have faded to a uniform brown. But judicious use of a test light will quickly sort things out. If you have one, a powered "buzz box" is even better, but I haven't gotten annoyed enough (yet) to make one.
Rebuilding the TR engine is straight-forward, any decent engine shop should be able to deal with it. The removable wet liners are uncommon, but obvious. And of course you should take them the shop manual, as they may not have the information otherwise (or worse, have it wrong). Still, I feel it is a good idea to have a discussion about what they are, or are not, going to do. "Rebuild" is a rather vague term. Specific topics might include:
1) Line-bore for cam bearings?
2) Hardened valve seats?
3) Valve guides iron or brass
4) Displacement (eg keep original 83mm bore or go up to 86, 87, or 89)
5) Line-bore for crankshaft
6) Balance all moving components
7) Use TR4A (small stem) exhaust valves?
There's lots more, of course, those are just some examples.
For the gearbox, though, it would probably pay to find someone who is familiar with the TR gearbox (especially the early 'crash' box). Shipping to, say, Quantum Mechanics, might prove to be a good investment there. There are some details that the manual doesn't cover, like how to tell the good reproduction synchro rings from the bad ones.