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TR2/3/3A What spare parts do you carry?

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glemon said:
I have never seen a wooden hanger used to as a muffler hanger, but an old metal clothes hanger works quite well, pliable enough to be bent by hand, strong enough to do the job, not a bad thing to have in the boot.
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I prefer "baling" wire. Much easier to bend and can store in a roll. Not as strong of course, but you can use multiple strands.

I agree, 2000 miles is awfully short. My TR3 is usually still running fine at 5000 miles and I think the last set I took out (which were still running OK but getting a little hard to start) had closer to 10k on them.

I did have an Audi that wanted new points every 3-4k, but it was tuned quite a bit higher from the factory than a stock TR. 10.2:1 compression, hemispherical combustion chambers, cross-flow head and factory tubular 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. Something like 115 hp from 1.7 liters and still met US emissions (for 1971). Doggone impressive for carb & points.
 
TexasKnucklehead said:
generator. I've had 2 issues with generator bushings (maybe I keep the belt too tight) and was glad I had one on my last trip.
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I had problems with locally rebuilt generators failing in a short time frame (specifically the rear bush) until I rebuilt the last ones myself for my car and my wife's car and made sure the rear bush was oiled properly before installation. Just my experience from way too many years ago with the local shops and of course YMMV.

Scott
 
And don't forget to oil it again from time to time. The book calls for a "few drops" every 6000 miles.
 
Hagerty's with their 100 mile flat bed tow package....and a cell phone. Of course the usual distributor, condenser, points rotor and associated tools. A cooler full of beer and a lawn chair while waiting for the truck. Do most people use the stock jack or a hydraulic bottle jack? I need a jack anyway, since my car came without one. I have been using the scissor jack from my Jetta.
 
I also carry the stock jack, and I've used it several times. But I don't bother with the square of plywood, as I've almost never needed the extra support, and I'm sure I could find something that would do, if I did. If all else fails, the tool I carry to remove the hubcaps (a modified, short flat pry bar) would probably work.

I never did get the stock ratchet, though, so I use a 3/8" drive ratchet combined with a suitable Whitworth socket.
 
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