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Installing flip front kit, what's easiest way to secure back of bonnet for driving?

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RickB said:
I was wondering about that, what about the ones that sit on the tops of the inner fenders - would they be helpful too?
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Be careful with those. If your hinges are slightly low, those will cause little bulges in your bonnet. If your hinged are high, they will never touch. best just to leave them off.
 
RickB said:
Guys, please take a look here and tell me what you think of these bits:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Bon...Bugeye-Sprite-MK1-1958-1961-New-/231204713897

Looks like decent stuff, Ebay makes it easy enough to return stuff if it isn't as advertised.
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There are a lot of bonnet gaskets out there that are too thick. I currently have a brand new one that was in the 10+ year old spares that came with my car that is too thick. I would take Jim's advice and call MacGregors, I still need to do the same.
 
Search hood lock on ebay and you'll find abunch of what looks like the locks on coke machines, with posts. I have one in each lower fender and the post is out of sight behind the interior panel
 
David_Doan said:
Be careful with those. If your hinges are slightly low, those will cause little bulges in your bonnet. If your hinged are high, they will never touch. best just to leave them off.
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Now that you mention it, David, my first BE had those bumper's and a front tilt bonnet. Also had the hood bulges you are talking about!

Kurt.
 
I think I tried 3 vendors for the bonnet seal on my BE, all too thick. I ended up making a jig, and cutting one down. It takes real patience to fit a bonnet on a BE, but it can be done, right Bill? CIMG0451.jpg
Scott in CA
 
Hi I have a MG Lenham LeMans Midget which has a William and Pritchard flip front bonnet. The sides of the bonnet (hood) are secured by Triumph Spitfire latches.
 
Rick,

A couple updates.

1. The place Jim talks about in Canada has a website that you can order from - https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com.

2. I found the set of latches that I ordered from McMaster-Carr that Jim recommended. Now that I have found the leather straps, I'm going to use them instead.

If you're interested in the latches, I will drop them in the mail on Monday. If you like them, we can work something out, otherwise just send them back. PM or email your address if you want them.
 
Thanks David, but my latches arrived today.
 
Rick,

let er me know what you think now that you have seen them. Now I wonder if I can use front tilt with locking rods for Bugsy II?
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Rick,

let er me know what you think now that you have seen them. Now I wonder if I can use front tilt with locking rods for Bugsy II?
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Jim,

If you use the locking rod as a pivot, the splash pan will hit the frame legs when the is only about 3/4 open. Even if you prop it open that way, you will have very limited access to the engine bay and working in there will be very cumbersome. It really defeats the entire purpose of reversing the hinge. The alternative is to notch the splash pan to clear the frame legs. Not a worthwhile pursuit in my opinion considering the easy and inexpensive (and reversible) alternatives. (yes, I mean my hinge kit) I did this on my first Bugeye back in the 60's and was never happy with the results.

DSCN0186sml.jpgnotchedPan.jpg
 
Gerard,

you ou just solved a mystery of why the bonnet for Bugsy I that I got from a friend was bitched that way. So us it possible to use your hinge kit and still use the locking rods. I don't think there is room and back of bonnet would but be very well secured.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Gerard,

you ou just solved a mystery of why the bonnet for Bugsy I that I got from a friend was bitched that way. So us it possible to use your hinge kit and still use the locking rods. I don't think there is room and back of bonnet would but be very well secured.
Click to expand...

You mean to relocate the locking mechanism to the other end? You probably could, but unless you could figure out a way to rig true handle from under the dash, you'd have it sticking out of the top of the bonnet.
 
Tks
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Gerard,

you ou just solved a mystery of why the bonnet for Bugsy I that I got from a friend was bitched that way. So us it possible to use your hinge kit and still use the locking rods. I don't think there is room and back of bonnet would but be very well secured.
Click to expand...

You could use a later bonnet latch at the back actuated by a cable. That's been done before.

I am going to try to devise a double hinge for the front of a later spridget so that I can fold the bonnet forward over the bumper. To unlatch you will lift and pull forward. Got the idea from a mention on this forum.

Kurt.
 
Other than Spitfire latches, the best method I have seen for locking a front hinge bonnet was using spring bolts from inside the footwells on each side. The bolts are mounted inside threw the footwell panel on each side and connect to a receiver welded onto the lower portion of the rear bonnet. A little bit of a pain to unlatch as both sides must be unlatched. Nothing shows from outside.
Scott in CA
 
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