TR2/3/3A Problem with Hub Removal

[Talon]

Hi All! I'm new here, and also pretty new to serious mechanical work on my TR-3A. I kept a bunch of junker cars going in my youth, and I rebuilt a Triumph motorcycle engine 30 years ago, but I'm not what you would call experienced at major work. But I have decided to tackle a noise that is probably a broken gear in the differential.

Problem: I am trying to remove the hubs so I can pull out the rear axle assembly. After taking off the brake drum, the manual says to remove a washer and a tapered collar. It also says that if you put a screwdriver in a cut in "the ring," the collar will expand and come off. So it says.

I can't see a washer. Could have been forgotten by a previous owner. But I also can't see where the "tapered collar" comes off the axle. It looks like one solid piece. And I have fiddled with a screwdriver in the "cut" that I think they mean, but short of prying the **** out of it and bending metal, I can't see or feel what they mean. It seems like one solid chunk, although I do expect things to stick together after 50 years. I've tried penetrating oil and some cautious tapping with a wooden mallet, but no go.

Attached is a photo of the situation, with my screwdriver pointing to the "cut in the ring" -- I think. (It's a huge file, but came out very small at this point ....)

This is not an auspicious start to the project. Any suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks. Talon.

 

[horizon]

Okay Talon

You need to remove the bolts (6 ?) that thread into the hub from the back side of the hub. The hub and a axle will slide out together. To separate the hub from the axle can be a difficult. Very Large press and lots of heat. You can go to Moss Motors web site and find an exploded view of the hub /axle assembly.

good luck

 

[TR3driver]

First of all, I suspect you're reading the wrong part of the manual. That's the later "Girling" axle (so-called because it has Girling brakes, not because Girling made the axle). Those hubs are mounted with "locking" tapers that take God's own specially-made puller to get them off without ruining everything (and sometimes not even then).

If you just want to service the diff, then it is much easier to remove the 6 bolts behind the brake plate, and slide the halfshaft out with the hub & bearing housing still attached to it. Keep track of the shims, they are important (although you'll want to check the clearances anyway when you reassemble). If you don't want to disassemble the hydraulics, then use one of the bolts plus a nut that you'll have to supply, to hold the brake backing plate in place. As you can see, I also put a piece of plastic over the end, to help keep crud out of the axle tube:



(click on the thumbnail to enlarge, this works for your post as well).

PS, might not be obvious : there are locktabs on those 6 bolts that you'll need to turn back before trying to remove them. Best practice is to replace the locktabs every time, but I find that cleaning the threads and adding a drop of Loctite works for me.

PPS, here is an article on how to build one version of the puller. Reportedly works quite well, but I've not tried it myself. Instead, I machined some heavy press plates to fit the hubs exactly and so far anyway, they've always come apart for me. Using heat on critical suspension components scares me, so I do it cold.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2...OTY1LTljNzEtZDMyNjM5OWFkZTQ4/edit?usp=sharing

 

[TRopic6]

What Randall said. A while back I took apart a 3A diff that was headed to the scrapyard. I need the center part for a TR6 diff rebuild and saved the half shafts as spares for my 3A. This forum has saved me countless hours of frustration, so here is a shot of what you will be puling out. The pencil is pointing to one of the 6 bolts Randall is referring to. Hope it helps - Good Luck!

Jeff
2x TR6
59 TR-3A & 63 TR-4

 

[PeterK]

And .. when you get it apart is the time to also check your wheel studs. If any need replacement, now is the time and post another subject for help if any are broken. They are not simply hammered in place as in other cars.

 

[Talon]

Thanks, guys! That all helps immensely.

I thought I might be dealing with a different type of hub, but the manual seemed to say that if you have wire wheels you have the other kind. I should have trusted my instincts a bit more.

No matter, I think I'm set to continue for the time being.

I am truly impressed by the generosity and quality of advice that I see in this forum. Reminds me of Benjamin Franklin: "We must all hand together or we shall surely all hang separately."

Ken

 

[TR3driver]

I thought I might be dealing with a different type of hub, but the manual seemed to say that if you have wire wheels you have the other kind.

That was true with the early axle. But with the later 'Girling' setup, the hubs are the same (except for the studs) and there is an adapter used to mount wire wheels.

Check for the "Supplement for TR3 models" in the back of the workshop manual. If you don't have one, you need to find a later edition.

 

[Talon]

Ah, now I understand. Thanks again. Time to get a newer manual, I guess.

From the picture, it looks like the "adapter" for mounting wire wheels is a hacksaw! Whatever.

 

[Mark]

It may have been noted by another respondent but there is a taper pin. My neighbor had an early TR4 and he neglected to note the taper pin. Unfortunately he used a burly gear puller on the hub and dished it. I don't know if he ever got that hub off. Ever. He ended up drilling the taper pin and attempted to yank it out that way.

 

[TR3driver]

Where is there a taper pin? I've taken several TR4 rear hubs apart, and never found a taper pin (or even the remains of one). The axle itself ends in a locking taper, which mates to a taper inside the hub; but the only pin involved is the cotter pin that locks the nut in place. There is a key in the joint, but it doesn't taper.