Yep! However I don't have to face finding another windscreen frame.
I have a technical question though. I'm still faced with drilling out the stanchion and the tenon plate. I have a multi speed bench drill so I can set them up in a vice but what speed should I use for the safest drilling. Fast or would slow be better?
Speed shouldn't be all that critical. I checked a couple of charts for maximum speed, and they come out around 2000-3000 rpm for a 1/4" bit in brass (200 sfpm). But going slower should be no problem.
If you have a bit that is a little dull, that would be better than a brand new one. The stanchions are brass (unless you have the uber-rare aluminum ones) and a sharp bit will have more of a tendency to grab and bind in the soft brass.
However, rather than spread the DPO-ism, what I would do is make up a repair piece to go in the hole. Start with an ordinary 1/4 bolt, then drill & tap through the center for the original bolt size. Cut it to length, then use a bolt & nut to install it in the hole with Loctite. Wait for the Loctite to set before proceeding with it. (To hold the bolt while cutting, use a Dremel & cutoff wheel to cut through the corner of a suitable nut; then clamp the split nut in a vise to grip the threads without damaging them.)
Another problem, though, at least on my early frame, those are NOT 10-32 holes, but 2 BA (as someone already suggested). Since Moss shows only one bolt for early/late, I think the later holes are 2 BA as well.
2 BA is 31-3/4 tpi, almost but not quite 32 tpi, plus about .005" smaller than 10-32. Hard to tell the difference (I used digital calipers & a 10X loupe). So my guess is that the holes got damaged in the first place by someone forcing 10-32 screws into them.