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TR2/3/3A TR3 Tropic Fan

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TR3driver said:
Just curious, has anyone tried using an aftermarket fan, like the Flex-a-Lite series? Or adding a fan shroud to the stock mechanical fan? A shroud supposedly increases the fan efficiency a lot, while not costing much in the way of power.
Click to expand...

Way back when I first got my TR4A (1981 or so), it shed two blades from the stock fan. I replaced it with a plastic 4-blade universal fan from Pep Boys, it had much more pitch than the stock, but was supposed to flatten out as revs increased. Never had overheating problems, and this was in Bakersfield, CA. And I never knew that there should be a shroud in front of the radiator until much later.
 
Hi Bob, The car was on the road this past spring and has gone close to 3000 miles.
The fan is clear of the radiator which was re-cored with no crank hole. I used the thin pulley kit from RevingtonTR and the fan extension and TR6 fan from another supplier. I'll have to look those up. Below is the best image I could find.

SWC_1182.jpg
 
Thanks croz! I was wondering if you might have gone with the special shorter fan extension. BTW, that is a nice looking engine!! Thanks for the picture!
Regards,
Bob
 
The shopping list:
[FONT=&quot]TR6 Fan – Rimmer Bros.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Thin Belt Conversion – Revington TR[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Uprated water pump 6 blade curved – Moss 835-071[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Fan conversion kit (shorter hub extension) – Moss 837-525
[/FONT]

Below is the finished car at VanDusen ABFM in 2013:

DSCN7361.jpg


 
Croz,
Thanks for the finished car pic.
My 3A was built the same day as yours & was the same colour & trim.
I'm curious about your luggage rack..Do you utilize it without the
hold-down clamps?
Frank
My 3_4.jpg
 
Hi There Frank,

I was at a show not too long ago where a gent had that OEM style luggage rack.

His problem was that the "Clamps" on the "Rear Deck Lid" were too thick & would not fit nicely between the "Boot Lid & Rear Apron". So; He took the clamps off & "Drilled" a couple of holes into the Boot Lid & was very secure. It looked good as well.

I don`t know how well those "Suction Cups" hold things down without the "Clamps"??

I`m looking for a good used one should anyone here have one For Sale.

Regards, Russ
 
toysrrus said:
...His problem was that the "Clamps" on the "Rear Deck Lid" were too thick & would not fit nicely between the "Boot Lid & Rear Apron". So; He took the clamps off & "Drilled" a couple of holes into the Boot Lid & was very secure. It looked good as well.

I don`t know how well those "Suction Cups" hold things down without the "Clamps"??
Click to expand...

I believe those rubber feet are too stiff & shallow to be effective as suction cups to hold the back end all by itself. I went so far as to fit a disk of sheet metal on the bottom of them then some very soft cotton fleece under that to protect the paint -- but then my paint is clear coat which shows any abrasion.

Running bolts into those rear legs would solve the problem but also sort of defeat the idea of this rack. If the boot lid is aligned those clamps will have just enough room (I cover the inside portion with some electrical tape). I do mount them inboard of the two rear legs as the lip of the boot lid is not bowed there -- perhaps there is less clearance if they are mounted further out where the lid bows a bit.

TR3LuggageRack_zps2a808236.jpg


I prefer the look of the car w/o the rack but it is indispensable for a long trip -- so the ability to remove it was important to me.
 
Russ, I don't think those suction cups were designed for that purpose. I have one of those luggage racks on my car and I think they were used as a buffer to help support the luggage rack with weight on it. My rubber cups started to fall to pieces from age. I used one to make a cast with plaster of paris and made some new ones using silicone. They have held up really well over the years. I did mine in white silicone.
 
As far as the luggage rack goes .... I didn't like the clamps either. They work well but gouge the surrounding paint.
I welded a ss bolt to the bottom of the each rack leg.
Then drilled holes through the rubber cups and set a small ss washer inside.
Drill holes through the boot lid and fasten with a ss washer and nut, seal with a dab of silicone. You could use one of those washers that have rubber on one side.
There is no strain on the lid or rack as the lid is raised or lowered, the hinges end up on the same plane as the mounting points.
 
I met a TR3B (I think it was a B) owner at the Day of Triumph this summer who had an engineer design him a pretty cool one off unique clamp to hold down his luggage rack. I asked him if once I get my luggage rack if he minded if I copied it, he didn't. He told me it wasn't cheap, but I love the look of it. He had this made because he didn't want the marks that the OEM clamps leave or didn't want to drill his boot.

I keep getting a file too large error when I try to post the pic, so here is the URL: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2838/10982927585_9957f8fcb9.jpg
 
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