Help me put together a plan for my Bugeye

[drooartz]

Winter is setting in around here, the fun vehicles are all winterized and the snowblower is ready for action -- time to start putting together the plan for my Bugeye. As my shop is not insulated or heated I won't be doing much work until April-ish, so now is the time to lay out how I'm going to proceed -- and time to fit in as many gigs as possible so I can afford everything!

I do have the end game in mind, pretty standard stuff really:

• Disc front brakes
• Supercharged 1275 (only because of altitude: I'm at 5550', good roads go up to 10,000')
• Datsun 5-speed
• Return interior to original red
• Fix body issues - fender beading, few other patches, fill in some holes, repaint in original Old English White
• Rebuild gauges, convert tach to electronic guts
• Restore the BMC factory hardtop that came with the car
• Charcoal grey minilites, or maybe refurbished stock wheels

Basically a stock-appearing car that can attack the pass roads and still cruise at a reasonable speed. Were I Jay Leno I'd have already put my team of skilled people to work... alas I'm not Leno and I have no team.

As for my skill set, mechanical and interior work I can, for the most part, handle myself. Will need to farm out some component rebuilding, but there's lots there that I can put my sweat equity into. Bodywork and paint will need to be handled by a pro; I know my limits.

I never intended to do another deep-in project after all the time I spent on the Tunebug, but this car is a special case for me. I'm already prepared for how upside-down I'm going to be from a financial perspective, and don't care one bit. For me this car is worth it.

So the question is this: what's the best path to proceed? I see two main options:

1. Strip the car down in the spring, plan on a 2-ish year full restoration process, finances depending -- pretty much down to the bare metal.
2. Fix the clutch so it's driveable on the current 948, sort out mechanicals as I go. At some point in the not-too-distant-future have the bodywork handled.

From a budget standpoint I should have enough in the fund to cover the bodywork by spring time, but that would probably drain the fund down. I did plan for this -- the recent motorcycle purchase was in part to make sure I had something fun on hand while the Bugeye was inoperable.

My first inclination is option 1, just dive in and do what needs doing. This option takes the car off the road right away, but ultimately would be done sooner as there'd be less to have to redo -- and I wouldn't have to spend the time/money on fixing the current mechanicals as they'd be removed anyways. If money got tight I could always put off the 1275 and just pop the 948 (with a new clutch) back in to be able to shake down everything else.

So what are your thoughts? Other plans I haven't thought of?

As a reminder, here's the car:

 

[Trevor Jessie]

My suggestion and warning.

I think you should sort all the mechanicals first and get it setup the way you want it. Then focus on the bodywork/interior/etc.

But... I'm following this route and I have yet to do the body work and such because I find it more fun to drive it ugly. My recent collision with a deer didn't phase me. One day with a hammer and a spray bomb and I was back on the road.

 

[aeronca65t]

I'm all for driving them!

Let the next owner fix it up! :highly_amused:

 

[Keith_M]

Drew,
There's no 'right' answer to this. The bugeye is your only LBC now, right? Do you really want to go with option 1 and not have an LBC to drive for 2 (or, realistically more than 2) years? That's the question....

I did a frame-off restoration of my BT7, but I had my '65 Sprite to drive so that I could get my LBC fix when I needed it.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I vote for Mechanicals first and do a rolling restoration. However some of us can do work in the garage of sorts in the winter. 2 years becomes iffy. Right now I'd love to have Bugsy back on the road in 2 years. It's already been 6 months and I've just started working on bodywork. Although I was able to pick up a set of rear backing plates this AM so I've got all of the parts and pieces needed now to convert over to disk brakes. Drive, drive, drive.

 

[drooartz]

If I get solid plan in place there are probably a few things I can be working on over the winter. I've got all the bits for the disc brake conversion (off a parts car) that all need to be cleaned and rebuilt. Those can be worked on in the attached garage that is at least insulated and heatable. If bodywork is first, though, I need to keep my funds available for that.

As for time off the road, that was a big driver behind my recent purchase of another motorcycle (Moto Guzzi V7). Without something to play with on the road I'll get frustrated -- I've been there. It's a good part of the reason I limit myself to one old vehicle at a time, ups the odds that one of the fun vehicles will be working.

 

[Gerard]

Hi Drew,

Being that I am a bit of a perfectionist, my tendency is to go for broke and start from square one. When I started my last Bugeye restoration many years ago, I also purchased a second Bugeye (the pictured race car in my sig) so I would have something to drive. (I knew it was going to be awhile) I won't tell you how many years ago that was. When I got my Morris Minor pickup, if first did a rolling restoration, and when my life settled down a bit, I started a frame off on it. That was several years ago. It's nearly done, but life interruptions have prevented me from finishing either of them. There's good reason for it, but I won't go into that here.

Currently, I'm working on a Morris Traveller that hasn't been driven for about 8 years. From past experience, here's my plan for it that makes the most sense. (some steps already done or soon to be finished). Some steps will not apply to the Bugeye, but it will give you the idea.

• Clean cooling and fuel systems and get engine running. (done)
• Rebuild, refurbish, paint and upgrade all suspension and brake components. This is something that can be done relatively quickly and keeps the car drivable. (soon to be finished- it would be done by now had FedEx not lost all my new parts I ordered)
• Rebuild secondary engine. (winter months)
• Remove current tired engine with rebuilt engine and 5 speed gearbox (by Spring). Repaint engine bay while the engine is out. Test drive/use car until rebuilt engine and gearbox are ready to go in.
• Complete any necessary bodywork and panel alignment.
• Remove all body panels (doors fenders, bonnet etc.) and have them painted.
• R&R wood framing. Prep, seal and insulate/soundproof interior
• Remove new wood once test fitted and finish/seal.
• Have cab painted
• Install wood and associated body panels.
• Install interior
• install remaining body panels and new/re-chromed chrome fittings.

I feel this approach keep the car mobile as long as possible.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Gerard,

I agree on life interruptions. You can't plan for them. Just as I got started working on Bugsy and ordered Filler and POR-15 and bought 2 engine stands so I can turn Bugsy upside down, I accepted a new job offer on Friday and will start next Monday. My cash flow issue just got fixed unfortunately time got consumed again. Oh well. Positive cash flow is good. I do know after taking a close look at Bugsy this week that he will need to go upside down make sure all of the welds done to the rear bulkhead are finished properly. Some of the panels that were welded in appear to have been only spot welded. I'll be able to flip over and make sure all of the spring mounts are cleaned up and coated with POR-15. The sheet metal on Bugsy II is cleaning up very nicely so far. EvapoRust, SOS Pads, and 100 grit paper followed by 220 is cleaning everything up very well.

 

[Gundy]

If I get solid plan in place there are probably a few things I can be working on over the winter. I've got all the bits for the disc brake conversion (off a parts car) that all need to be cleaned and rebuilt. Those can be worked on in the attached garage that is at least insulated and heatable. If bodywork is first, though, I need to keep my funds available for that.

As for time off the road, that was a big driver behind my recent purchase of another motorcycle (Moto Guzzi V7). Without something to play with on the road I'll get frustrated -- I've been there. It's a good part of the reason I limit myself to one old vehicle at a time, ups the odds that one of the fun vehicles will be working.

Moto Guzzi......(drool)

Drew, if it were me I'd vote for option 2. Paint and body is a long tedious process that just can't be rushed. A plus is that NOT having a re-done body makes mechanical work a bit less stressful.
The mechanical improvements can be done in stages and usually, by themselves, don't eat up road time too bad. Get her where you want her and then shine her up.

OT: I may be buying my FJ40 back ;-)

 

[Gerard]

Gerard,

I agree on life interruptions. You can't plan for them. Just as I got started working on Bugsy and ordered Filler and POR-15 and bought 2 engine stands so I can turn Bugsy upside down, I accepted a new job offer on Friday and will start next Monday. My cash flow issue just got fixed unfortunately time got consumed again. Oh well. Positive cash flow is good. I do know after taking a close look at Bugsy this week that he will need to go upside down make sure all of the welds done to the rear bulkhead are finished properly. Some of the panels that were welded in appear to have been only spot welded. I'll be able to flip over and make sure all of the spring mounts are cleaned up and coated with POR-15. The sheet metal on Bugsy II is cleaning up very nicely so far. EvapoRust, SOS Pads, and 100 grit paper followed by 220 is cleaning everything up very well.

Jim,

Just a suggestion here... (and you probably won't like it)

I know you already purchased the POR15, but my experience in using that and Rust Bullet, I prefer the RB hands down. I even did comparison tests by removing coating after a year, POR showed surface rust even when painted over pristine clean, acid etched metal. It was easy to scratch off clean metal, so maybe best put over rusty metal (??) The RB is barely removable, even with a wire wheel. I did all suspension components, brake parts, floor pans, even wheels with it. I used it for the entire frame of the Morris pickup. The MG 1100 I did with it (which gets regular exposure to weather and driven regularly), even 7 years after looks the same as the day I put it on. The RB is hard as a rock and is very scratch resistant, and also not UV sensitive. The silver color and UV resistance means no top-coating is necessary, though it is paintable. They make a chassis black too, which is high gloss, so can be used where you want a black finish instead of silver. That's my experience anyway.

 

[nomad]

I'm for mechanical work first as well but since its not hard to remove the bonnet which pretty much removes any body parts you are likely to damage paint first might not be as bad as most cars.

Actually a good warm place to work would be my first step!

Kurt.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Gerard
never heard of that product. Since I have not picked up from paint supply shop yet...

 

[JPSmit]

Drew, realizing there might be a financial stretch (a big one) can you send strip the body and send it off? And then use the winter to rebuild/ refresh in the garage. Even if you leave the engine till next winter to fully rebuild, at least then you should be driving in 2014 not 2015.

 

[Gerard]

Gerard
never heard of that product. Since I have not picked up from paint supply shop yet...

Some pro paint shops carry it. Otherwise:

https://www.rustbullet.com/?source=adwords&gclid=CIW4tqDvzroCFSEV7AodYR8AzQ

Check it out before you decide.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Thanks Gerard.

 

[smaceng]

From what I hear, you want to do everything necessary to have a fantastic BE with all the right upgrades. Your build is very similar to mine......old English white with a red interior.....1275.....Datsun 5-speed....disc brakes.....upgrades electrical....etc. I say go all in, strip the body...send it out for repair and paint....meanwhile....start collecting parts and figuring out all the vendor and parts to use. I would use Gerard's 5-speed conversion....brake and gas lines from Fed Hill.....VTO wheels (if you want to upgrade) from Hap....engine stuff APT.....AH Spares has great quality stuff....most difficult parts to find....green turn signal light...windshield washer pump....windshield washer bottle...Cheers...have fun! Scott in CA

 

[bug_sixty]

Add a 3.7 or 3.9 hogs head to the list

 

[drooartz]

Actually a good warm place to work would be my first step!

That's on the schedule for next summer, just couldn't get it all done this year.

Currently, I'm working on a Morris Traveller that hasn't been driven for about 8 years. From past experience, here's my plan for it that makes the most sense. (some steps already done or soon to be finished). Some steps will not apply to the Bugeye, but it will give you the idea.

Thanks for that list, Gerard. Very helpful to see how you approached the work.

Moto Guzzi......(drool)

OT: I may be buying my FJ40 back ;-)

50 yards into the test ride and I knew I was going to buy it. Can't say I'm surprised the FJ40 may be coming back to you... they're hard to stay away from. I still think about the last one I sold off, really wish I could have kept it.

 

[drooartz]

Drew, realizing there might be a financial stretch (a big one) can you send strip the body and send it off?

That may still be my plan, though not quite yet. Already too cold to work out there, and I don't have a good way to get the car to a shop to get a quote. If I go the full resto route, it'll be in the spring.

From what I hear, you want to do everything necessary to have a fantastic BE with all the right upgrades. Your build is very similar to mine.... I say go all in, strip the body...send it out for repair and paint....meanwhile....start collecting parts and figuring out all the vendor and parts to use.

Very similar indeed! I'm certainly not going down a very unique path, but there is a reason that setup is popular -- I'll be very excited when I'm on the other side and driving.

Add a 3.7 or 3.9 hogs head to the list

I've got a 3.90 on hand if I want it, though it's not in the current plan. Had one on the Tunebug (with a ribcase) and was never all that happy with the gearing in the terrain I drive in -- lots of mountain passes even on the freeways. Currently thinking the 5-speed and 4.22 would be the setup, but if I do supercharge the different torque band might change that.

 

[drooartz]

Thanks all for the ideas, this conversation is very helpful.

I'll add that I'm less concerned about not being able to drive right away (right away = over the next 3 years realistically) than I am about picking the plan that gets me through the restoration in the most successful manner so I can enjoy many years of driving. I do have the Guzzi to play with in the interim.

One benefit of the driving-restoration is that I can focus on one system at a time. Keeps the car more in one piece, takes up less space, and there are less parts to get mixed up. Remove, restore, replace, move on to next system. Downside is that at some point much of that has to be re-removed for final bodywork. Still, it's not an inconsequential upside.

A benefit of the going-in-deep method is that right now I've probably got enough cash saved to cover the bodywork and paint, which is likely to be the biggest single expense. Much of the mechanical work can be done in stages as the cash comes in (other than the clutch the car does run okay) but the bodywork requires that single large expenditure. Going the mechanical-first route will eat that cash pile down, and it may take some time to replenish enough to have the bodywork cost again.