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Replacing engine ID tag

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Nelson

Nelson

Jedi Warrior
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My original engine ID was removed and lost a long time ago. I have no idea how or when it happened. I just received a new tag from Clarke Spares. The original rivets are now flush with the surface of the area where the plate mounts. I thought it would be a simple matter to just drill them out and pop in the new rivets. Not so. They told me that the rivets are hardened and suggested that I use a punch to drive them down and then use Locktite on the new shortened rivets. One of the old rivets went down almost 1/8 inch and the other likes where it is. Other than using JB Weld to fasten the plate is there a way to deepen the existing rivet locations?
 
Did you try to drive them down after the engine was good and hot?
 
No, I haven't tried that. Actually I will have to wait a bit to try that. I'm in the process of reinstalling the engine after having had it out for a while. I just installed Gerard's oil seal setup and I'm still connecting the bits and pieces back onto the engine with it back in the car. Don't ask me how much fun it was putting the radiator back in.
 
BTDT - MOWOGS needed with toughened little hands.
 
Nelson,

I happen to have a block with the rivets removed, and the rivets intact, The depth of the hole is pretty much the same length of the rivet. It's not going anywhere if you trying to drive them in. They are a bear to drill out. You will need an appropriate bit to drill them out.

Unfortunately, people tend to grind or chisel off the heads, not knowing the correct way to remove them. All that needs to be done is to cut a screw slot in the head, then use a regular screwdriver to twist them out. They have a twist on the shank, so they will come out like a screw.

At this point, other than drilling, the only other option is to get a Dremel, carbide burr. I have a small one that I have used more than once to handle broken off hardened bolts. The 3rd from the left is what I have in mind. Here's an Amazon link, but you can find them individually at a Lowes.

Gerard

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-8-Piec...F8&qid=1372787026&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+burr

41lSeIh9nlL._SX385_.jpg
 
Thanks Gerard. That Dremel tool has been one super handy tool. I have the proper rivets from Clarke so once I get the old ones pulverized I'll be able to do a proper install. At least I don't have to have the tag installed to run the engine. Now I need to get under the car and put the clutch slave back on.
 
Nelson

IS there a way to cut some sort of slot...No how about a LH Drill Bit / Easy Out. Once you start LH Drilling it may just spins it's way out of there.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Nelson

IS there a way to cut some sort of slot...No how about a LH Drill Bit / Easy Out. Once you start LH Drilling it may just spins it's way out of there.
Click to expand...

An EZ-out is conceptually an option, and considered mentioning it, but the hole and the size of the EZ-out would have to be so small, that I think the force needed to extract the stub would likely break the tool. Same with the drill bit... you might get lucky, but if it catches, it'll break the tip. Either scenario leaves you with a bigger problem.
 
I broke an EZ Out trying to extract a bolt from a Water Heater Element. Ever try to drill an EZ Out. NFW! Ended up replacing the water heater.
 
JB Weld?
 
You may even be able to fake the appearance of rivets
 
Gerard said:
Nelson,

I happen to have a block with the rivets removed, and the rivets intact, The depth of the hole is pretty much the same length of the rivet. It's not going anywhere if you trying to drive them in. They are a bear to drill out. You will need an appropriate bit to drill them out.

Unfortunately, people tend to grind or chisel off the heads, not knowing the correct way to remove them. All that needs to be done is to cut a screw slot in the head, then use a regular screwdriver to twist them out. They have a twist on the shank, so they will come out like a screw.

At this point, other than drilling, the only other option is to get a Dremel, carbide burr. I have a small one that I have used more than once to handle broken off hardened bolts. The 3rd from the left is what I have in mind. Here's an Amazon link, but you can find them individually at a Lowes.

Gerard

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-8-Piec...F8&qid=1372787026&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+burr

View attachment 27967
Click to expand...
Engine rebuilders commonly chisel them off so if you want to save the engine identity you should remove the plate before it goes to the shop.
I've had good luck using a small vise grip with good jaw's.

Kurt.
 
EZ-out's are designed to rotate a broken bolt. These rivets have very steep "threads" (spiral spline is more like it). The only way they come out is nearly straight up.

I haven't tried with one of these rivets, but I have had good luck with a small MIG spot on broken fasteners. As opposed to most other things, it will stick to hardened metal.

It helps to shield the block from the MIG weld with a piece of sheet metal with a hole, through which you weld to the rivet.
 
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