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Garage lift, which direction??

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What's the top of the windscreen measure from the floor on the 4?
When its on all fours.
 
Hard to measure at the moment (it is up, that picture was this a.m.) but 46" is about right. Will vary some based on tires, etc.

The ramp it sits on is 68.25" floor to deck. That leaves 49" above the ramp in the pictured position. You need a couple of inches wiggle room as the ramp has to go a bit above the final position to engage & disengage the stops.
 
Geo, Thanks for that and sorry about the Basil thing, was in another place, trying to get storm doors up and keep a check on one of my projects.
I would like to get one of the approved lifts no matter which one it is.
We have been trying to save a bit of money on this and I can see that in not a good idea. I may look into a local dealer that can deliver and install.

Wayne
 
Was wondering the difference in the windshield height difference from the Wedge
What's the width of that beast?
 
Peter,

I am sold on putting a 4-post in my garage. I have plenty of ceiling height. My one question is the garage door. I had a guy come over yesterday and he said I should use a LiftMaster Elite 3800 garage door opener.

I think all I need to do is have someone add a straight piece to my existing door tracks so the door goes up closer to the ceiling. Then, I just need to move the door opener closer to the ceiling.

Did you have to do anything to move your door closer to the ceiling?

Thanks.

Paul
 
Vaark01 said:
...Did you have to do anything to move your door closer to the ceiling?...
Click to expand...

Here's a shot of my garage & door tracks & motor before installing the lift:


Footprint3_zps4945eb18.jpg



To get more clearance I simply raised the motor and shortened the rear hangers, increasing the angle of the door tracks. I didn't actually bend anything, the joint between the right-angle piece and the straight tracks just introduces a slight angle:


JiffyLube_zps3eb0c99d.jpg



In 4+ years of constant use the door has had no problems with that change.

You'll note I also modified the connection between the drive screw track and the top center of the door taking out the 'knee' in that connector. The knee was not really needed on a door with no reinforcing bar (single wide doors usually don't have them).
 
I got a 4 post Eagle lift 12 years ago. Like PeterK I had it delivered to a truck dock and brought it home on our car trailer. My wife and I put it together with an engine hoist. I got an accessory I really use frequently, a bridge jack. It spans the two rails with a little hydraulic jack to lift an axle. 4 post lifts can easily be relocated if necessary. A flat bed truck moved it from one house to another two years ago. There are positive attributes to both types of lifts. I no longer bend over to polish bumpers and wheels.
 
Perry, any chance you could link me to some pictures of your Studebakers? I have been thinking of a 4 post also. There are hours of reading material about lifts at The Garage Journal.
 
Can't help you with the lift decision but an easy way to gain about a foot of overhead room is to install a LiftMaster door opener that mounts at the top side of the door.... picture from their site and you can see the motor mounted in that top right picture. No big bulky motor in the middle of the ceiling with this opener.

8500_Lifestyle.jpg
 
I would really do that change if impacted a lift
My garage bay for the Wedge is 31' long so don't have to worry about the door lift
 
Vaark01 said:
Peter,

Which model did you buy?

Thanks.
Paul
Click to expand...

Hi Paul, Bought it several years ago from asedeals.com (<-- highly recommended, several purchases from them) https://asedeals.com/BendPak-car-parking-lift-HD7.html This is A link but not exactly as mine due to model changes. Mine proudly labeled Made in the USA too. Many lower cost lifts are manufactured in China. I paid around $2200 total with shipping to the closest truck depot.

Mine is 7k 4-post pretty much identical to the HD7 but mine is #SS7000K or something like that.

I purchased two accessory bridges that span the ramps. They are made from 3/8" steel U channel are are VERY heavy. I use bottle jacks and a large motorcycle scissors jack to lift suspension if needed. I also mounted a small 12V winch on the front for pulling vehicle up the ramps. It's a really nice setup for work as well as 2-vehicle storage.

more?
 
Like the idea of the 4 post but don't know if that would really hinder the removal of the motor on the Wedge
 
DNK said:
Like the idea of the 4 post but don't know if that would really hinder the removal of the motor on the Wedge
Click to expand...

I think it would, since you would want to lift the body and leave the front wheels on the ground. Though I suppose if the subframe would fit between the ramps, you might be able to leave the front wheels on the lift and disconnect the track control arms (and steering rack, and front sway bar). You probably should rig up some other support for the front of the body, though, as the struts wouldn't have anything keeping them from splaying out.
 
DNK said:
Sounds like a real pain...
don't it Darrell
Click to expand...

I think so, though perhaps a little less painful than no lift at all. It would be really sweet to be able to roll something under the subframe, while working at a reasonable height, then once everything is disconnected lift the body off. After watching Edd do just that on Wheeler Dealers a few times, I'm really craving a lift myself!
 
For removing the body with a four post lift, what about raising the lift without the car on it then roll the car under the lift. Disconnect the tub from the frame, lower the four post to just above the tub and sling the tub to the lift. then when you lift the hoist it will lift the tub off the frame. you are left with a rolling frame on the ground that you can roll out of the way and then lower the tub onto some rolling dolly for movement to a storage/work area
 
Adrio
For a Wedge you don't remove the body (it's not a frame car)
The engine needs to drop out the bottom on a subframe

Darrell- It's what is stopping me from my engine project.
That,...and no job
 
Adrio said:
For removing the body with a four post lift, what about raising the lift without the car on it then roll the car under the lift. Disconnect the tub from the frame, lower the four post to just above the tub and sling the tub to the lift. then when you lift the hoist it will lift the tub off the frame. you are left with a rolling frame on the ground that you can roll out of the way and then lower the tub onto some rolling dolly for movement to a storage/work area
Click to expand...

I do that. Works great. I use lashing straps around the ramps and can easily adjust them as I lower the tub back on.
 
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