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Free up my engine

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aaronf30

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I've got an engine that hasn't been moved for 20 years. I am thinking of taking off the head assembly and having it rebuilt with unleaded valves while I free it up using wd 40 and such. Does this sounds like good idea and what is the best way to free it?
 
My TR3 had been idle for over 30 years (but wasn't frozen either AFAIK). I gave each cylinder a healthy dose of PB Blaster (much better penetrating oil than WD-40, IMO) and let it sit overnight, then dumped some motor oil in each cylinder and spun the engine with the starter (plugs still out) until the oil pressure came up. Put the plugs back in and started trying to make it run. It wound up needed new points & condenser, plus the fuel system was gummed up (so I fed it with a spare electric pump from a can for the first test firing). That was spring of 2009, and I even drove it to work today.

At about $1/tank for Redline Lead Substitute, I figure the valve seat inserts can wait until I'm ready to rebuild the rest of the engine.
 
If you do pull the head for the valve seat inserts, make sure that you use something to hold down the cylinder liners before you turn the engine, or they might get dislodged.

BTW, when posting, mention what car you're talking about. I had to look at your profile to see what it was. The later six cylinder engines don't have wet liners, so my advice would not apply. You could also put your car's description in your signature. Which reminds me, I should probably edit my own signature, as it's left over from the previous forum and didn't translate well.
 
In the past what I have done is drain out the old oil put the plug back in and pull the spark plugs--- then I get a few gallons of oil and fill the engine until the oil comes out the plug holes. This oils everything the chain crank, cam, ect. Then turn it over by hand for a week or so--- on and off. After that, I drain that oil out and put the normal amount in with a new filter and try and start it.
 
I have a friend that purchased a TR3 project that has be dormant for at least 20 years. The engine has been rebuilt, but never started. Since the cam&lifters depend on splash&mist for lubrication (and won't receive any for maybe a min. after starting), I have encouraged him to remove the lifters and apply fresh assembly lube to the cam. I figured the old lube might have disappeared and the extra effort is better than taking a chance on ruining the cam. I have also suggested spinning the oil pump with a drill motor before starting. Overkill?
Berry
 
sp53 said:
-- then I get a few gallons of oil and fill the engine until the oil comes out the plug holes.
Click to expand...

Gotta ask...how many gallons of oil does it take to fill a tractor motor?

In my younger days we would pull the old cars behind the Massey-ferguson, popping the clutch to free the motor, till it started. Worked like a charm...till we did it to the one with water in the intake. That one didn't turn out well, but then it only cost $50.
 
When he talks about lubing the chain, I think more like 5 or 6 gallons...as in filling the entire engine. Should work , just a lot of oil!
 
CJD said:
When he talks about lubing the chain, I think more like 5 or 6 gallons...as in filling the entire engine. Should work , just a lot of oil!
Click to expand...

Probably need to plug the dipstick hole with something more than the dipstick. Also if you have a road draft tube, that would need to be plugged.

If you were just filling the cylinders, it would be more like 1 liter, on average the pistons would be halfway between TDC and BDC. Plus a bit for the combustion chamber volumes.
 
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I was wondering why no one responded to this until i realize i didnt subscribe.....Okay so tonight i will take the plugs out and fill it with PB blaster. I'd rather not screw up the sleeves and have more problems then i started. I have tried electrical yet so i guess its as good as time as any to try the starter.
 
Just to make sure i do this right. Does it matter if i put the diesel through the oil filler cap or through the spark plug holes? Do i want to fill it until it comes out the spark plug holes? Sorry i dont want to screw this up!
 
I wouldn't use diesel fuel at all; but the idea would be to put some in through the spark plug holes (not fill until it comes out the hole) so it will seep down past the rings and hopefully loosen them up. Be sure to spin it with the plugs out afterwards, so that any excess will get thrown harmlessly out the plug hole rather than taking a chance on hydrolocking the motor.

But a can of PBB is only around $8 and is much better at both penetrating rust and lubricating than diesel fuel. If you can't afford $8, I'd suggest you've chosen the wrong hobby :single_eye:
 
After much testing it has been revealed that nothing works better than acetone/ATF mixed.Thats CORRECT
no other product tested could beat this old stand by.That said, some early 2liters have a 4 ring piston. If it has set long enough for rust
to get between 3 and 4 on any one piston, you can cut to the chase and get out the 8lb sledge......its toast.
MD(mad dog)
 
MDCanaday said:
After much testing it has been revealed that nothing works better than acetone/ATF mixed.Thats CORRECT
no other product tested could beat this old stand by.
Click to expand...
However, that test is highly suspect in my opinion. For one thing, acetone/ATF quickly separates back into it's component parts, which makes it useless for long-term soaking of the joint to be penetrated.

And the test only compared the torque required to turn a bolt, NOT whether it could be turned at all without breaking. I can generate all the torque I need, I'm more interested in not breaking things than having them fall apart.

In my personal tests, "weasel pee" (as the acetone/ATF mixture is known) is only slightly better than the regular kind.
 
WP_20130307_003.jpgOKay so this rust if actually from the oil cap and me hitting it with a mallet a few times . SO its not actually on the rockers down there. I sprayed a ton of pb blaster down the plug holes as well. I guess my question is how do i proceed from here.

Should I drain the oil completely. Fill it to the max for a few days , drain it again , fill with new oil and try and turn it over

now that i put pb blaster in should i try turning it over with the starter and then doing my oil flushes?

or something else.
 
I'd pop the cover and remove that crud...if it were my engine.

I also think you may be over thinking this. Spray a little of one, or all, of the oils mentioned above in the plug holes, and then see if the motor will turn. If it does, Change the oil and try to start it. If it doesn't, well, then we have to start thinking hard!
 
CJD said:
I'd pop the cover and remove that crud...if it were my engine.
Click to expand...
What he said! Get that crud (whatever it is) out of there first; don't take a chance on it getting circulated through the engine!

Doesn't look good to me. If things look as bad with the cover off as I think they will, then there is no point in trying to start or even turn the engine. Just tear it down now and maybe you'll be able to save some of the components.
 
Looks pretty rough to me as well. Have you pulled the valve cover? With an engine that looks that bad I pull the valve cover and using a big rubber mallet, bang on each valve to see if its stuck or not. That tells me real quick if I'm spending any more time with trying to turn it over or start.

Marv
 
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