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TR2/3/3A The Stator tube...Looking for the thread on the best way to cut the slot in a new stainless steel tube? Tried the Search option with no luck?

karls59tr

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Does anyone know how I can locate it? How would a person hold the stator in place and what tool to use? I'm also interested in the thread on welding small tack welds on the stainless steel to hold the 2 lantern shape spacers from moving. On the old original stator it looks like small raised indents were just chiseled in place to hold them? Guess trying that with stainless would not work because of it's hardness. Is there another way besides welding to accomplish this?Any help most appreciated. Karl
 

Photobucket defiled all the pictures, but I think you can make out how I did it.
 

Photobucket defiled all the pictures, but I think you can make out how I did it.
Thanks John I have read that the slot is supposed to be 1/16" wide? Would it matter if it was 1/8" wide or would that not mate up with the dimples on the trafficater tube? I haven't looked into it yet but I think a dremel cutting wheel would probably be 1/8". Guess I'll need something that will cut stainless steel as well. I dont want to screw up the slot at this point. :unsure:
 
Does anyone know how I can locate it? How would a person hold the stator in place and what tool to use? I'm also interested in the thread on welding small tack welds on the stainless steel to hold the 2 lantern shape spacers from moving. On the old original stator it looks like small raised indents were just chiseled in place to hold them? Guess trying that with stainless would not work because of it's hardness. Is there another way besides welding to accomplish this?Any help most appreciated. Karl
Found this link
 
I don't think 1/8" would make a huge difference. It might allow the trafficator to move back and forth a few degrees.
 
I believe Macy’s Garage sells both versions of the stator tube. I think he had them on eBay a while back.
 
Hi Karl I used some rubber plumbing piece I found at a hardware store for the Chinese lanterns. Cutting the slit, I used a cutting wheel about a 1/16 to 1/8 wide. You should be able to put the trafficker matting up piece to look at the fit as you go. In addition, I found some stainless tubing the correct size at a commercial truck hydraulic shop, cheap, so if you make a mistake try finding some there. Cut the slot first and then the length.

Steve
 
Hi Karl I used some rubber plumbing piece I found at a hardware store for the Chinese lanterns. Cutting the slit, I used a cutting wheel about a 1/16 to 1/8 wide. You should be able to put the trafficker matting up piece to look at the fit as you go. In addition, I found some stainless tubing the correct size at a commercial truck hydraulic shop, cheap, so if you make a mistake try finding some there. Cut the slot first and then the length.

Steve
Hi Steve What do the rubber plumbing pieces you used look like? Did they work as well as the Chinese lanterns? What would keep the rubber pieces from moving up or down the stator tube? Karl
 
The lanterns basically stop the stator tube from rattling inside steering column. What I found was some rubber pieces that had the same outside diameter of the stator tube and the inside diameter of the steering column. The rubber pieces were round and slid on tight.

The lanterns had those little crimps on the stator to keep the lanterns sliding down. I use some duct tape strips on the both sides of stator tube to hold the rubber in place, not classy but it worked.

The Chinese lanterns would be best, but at the time I did not have any.

I am sure there are many other ways to hold the tube still, so go with the flow.

Steve
 
The lanterns basically stop the stator tube from rattling inside steering column. What I found was some rubber pieces that had the same outside diameter of the stator tube and the inside diameter of the steering column. The rubber pieces were round and slid on tight.

The lanterns had those little crimps on the stator to keep the lanterns sliding down. I use some duct tape strips on the both sides of stator tube to hold the rubber in place, not classy but it worked.

The Chinese lanterns would be best, but at the time I did not have any.

I am sure there are many other ways to hold the tube still, so go with the flow.

Steve
I'm trying to avoid having to spot weld crimps on the stainless steel to keep the lanterns from moving. I wonder if rubber O rings would work? Karl
 
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