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TR2/3/3A Radiator replacement, while I'm in there?

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drooartz

drooartz

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When I bought my TR3A I knew the radiator needed to be replaced. Finally had some time and was able to get the front valance off with the help of a local friend and Triumph guy. I've got a new Wizard radiator and Macy's Garage hurricane fan in hand, and will order new radiator hoses and a new fan belt.

What else should I look at while the car is like this? Car was restored 10ish years ago (quite well) and has been used lightly since. I know I need to work on the brakes (they pull to one side, can't remember though which side), but what else is worth digging into while it's more accessible? I certainly don't want to pull that valence regularly!

On the plus side, sure is nice to work on a restored car. All the bolts just came off. Who knew that could happen?

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I did the same project last year with a new rad and had done the Macy Fan prior to that. I agree with Hamish, perfect time to check your steering box. Also great time for a detailed cleaning of the engine bay. Car looks very good and your parts, bolts, placement shows you are a detail person. Well done.
Frank D….
 
"On the plus side, sure is nice to work on a restored car. All the bolts just came off. Who knew that could happen?"

All the bolts just came off! As a Yorkshireman would say ...

L U X U R Y!

 
Not sure how original you're looking to keep the car, but now would be a good time to go to a thin fan belt if you're ever thinking of doing it.
I'm pretty sure the thin belt conversion can be done pretty simply with new pulleys while you have access to everything on the front of the engine.
IIRC, the thin belt can be changed without too much drama, where the original wide belt is a real bear to do outside of a garage and the ability to lift the engine a bit.
 
NutmegCT said:
"On the plus side, sure is nice to work on a restored car. All the bolts just came off. Who knew that could happen?"

All the bolts just came off! As a Yorkshireman would say ...

L U X U R Y!

Click to expand...
All my bolts came off with some combination of drill, cutting wheel, and bur grinder :cryin:
 
Thanks for the ideas. I'll take a look at the steering box and make sure it's lubed properly. Good idea.

My new radiator has no starting hole -- I'm going for max cooling. For valve adjustment I've always just put the car in 4th gear and rolled it to rotate the engine. Simple enough to do.

I'll look into the thin belt, but I was able to get the fat one off without too much fuss. Doesn't look like that belt would break anytime soon, but it also seems a challenging one to replace with the front of the car on. Triumph doesn't seem to have thought that one all the way through. :unsure:
 
Motor mounts whether you need them yet or not if you have big hands. I struggled for hours replacing them from under the car. When I later took the valence and radiator off, I found one mount bolt loose. The next time the valence came off, and probably any other time in the future, it’s new motor mounts.

Steve
TR2
 
Frank_D said:
I did the same project last year with a new rad and had done the Macy Fan prior to that. I agree with Hamish, perfect time to check your steering box. Also great time for a detailed cleaning of the engine bay. Car looks very good and your parts, bolts, placement shows you are a detail person. Well done.
Frank D….
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Sometimes I think I'm the slowest, most pedantic mechanic out there. :smile: I've learned that my middle-aged brain is not great at remembering, so I make a lot of notes. I'm also returning to the Triumph world after many years on the BMC side, so I have to learn all the little nuances. Fun stuff, keeps the brain active.
 
I hate electric AM fans. A tr3 has a marginal amount of watts to spare and this is IMHO
not a good idea. I have converted dozens of Tr3's to Tr7 blade fans over the years and it is the
easy ,cheap, and super effective. Why add potential problems in a spot so hard to access???
The risk with an alloy rad and the 13 blade is overcooling if the thermostat is bad/incorrect.
Mad dog
 

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mctriumph said:
I hate electric AM fans. A tr3 has a marginal amount of watts to spare and this is IMHO
not a good idea. I have converted dozens of Tr3's to Tr7 blade fans over the years and it is the
easy ,cheap, and super effective. Why add potential problems in a spot so hard to access???
The risk with an alloy rad and the 13 blade is overcooling if the thermostat is bad/incorrect.
Mad dog
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Do you have a link to the process of fabricating that TR7 fan modification? Are those rubber grommets readily available? Karl
 
Congrats, didn’t know you had acquired a ‘3. Good call on motor mounts, might check the water pump while you’re there, generator wiring, condition of silentblocs. TRF offers a Delrin version of them from Joe Alexander.

+1 on the Mark Macy fan.
 
I just finished putting in my new Wizard. Looking forward to not overheating if I happen to get in traffic.

A puller fan is more effective than a pusher, and also accessible if necessary without removing the apron. If you get a puller you will need to remove the fan extension and add a fan extension delete kit.
 
TFB said:
if you don't have the fiber board air directing piece behind the the grill,,I forget proper name, now would be good time to install.
tom
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I do have the fiberboard air ducting, it was already installed.

karls59tr said:
That yellow fan looks like a TR6 fan. Was it mounted backwards to gain clearance?
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No idea — I assume that was installed when the car was restored. It will be replaced with the Macy’s Garage hurricane fan. That’s an improved mechanical fan, I’m not switching to an electric fan at this point.

mrv8q said:
Congrats, didn’t know you had acquired a ‘3. Good call on motor mounts, might check the water pump while you’re there, generator wiring, condition of silentblocs. TRF offers a Delrin version of them from Joe Alexander.

+1 on the Mark Macy fan.
Click to expand...
What is a silentbloc? Learning all sorts of new things with this TR3 that’s for sure.

I did look at the motor mounts in the car, and they look new. I don’t think this car has a lot of miles on it since the restoration was done, so I’m likely going to leave those alone. I’ll take a closer look before I do the parts order just to be sure.
 
Those are the pivoting bushings that attach the steering drag link to the gearbox arm on one side and the idler arm on the other. When they wear out they will cause all kinds of steering play.
 
Snowkilts said:
I just finished putting in my new Wizard. Looking forward to not overheating if I happen to get in traffic.

A puller fan is more effective than a pusher, and also accessible if necessary without removing the apron. If you get a puller you will need to remove the fan extension and add a fan extension delete kit.
Click to expand...

Edit: this refers to an electric fan, obviously. Do not remove the fan extension if you are just changing to a different mechanical fan.
 
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