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BN2 Master Cylinder

When you adjust both adjusters tight and test the pedal, then come back and test the pedal again,,,, how does it feel? How many times can you keep tightening the adjusters and not lock the drums?
Are the shoes bending to take the arch of the drums?

When you adjust the brakes on the front leave the spanner on the nut pointing straight up. Where is it when you go back. If the spanner has moved. Adjusters are slipping
When I adjust the brakes locked tight, got a very good pedal. If I adjust so the drums will move with friction, pedal not as good. Trying the spanner on the snail cam nut right now and will see what happens. New wheel cylinder not leaking and working good, no leaks with any connections changed on Thursday. I have broken connections on crossover hard brake pipe between front cylinders to see if air there too. I have one connection of the brake pipe coming from the master cylinder to the 4 way on inside of the right frame rail that I cannot budge. Have tried sprays to help with tight/rusted connections and doesn't do any good. I am deathly afraid if I try too hard, i.e. using a big wrench and muscle it, I will break the actual 4 way and then I am really up the creek.

Update,
spanner is not moving so snail adjusters not moving but right front shoes will not stay tightened up.
 
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That's good news. You now know it isn't air in the system. It has to be the front brakes mechanical characteristics. Seems to me the arch between the pad and drum isn't correct. With them just one click from really tight, try pushing hard on the brakes and rolling the car back and forth and see if they loosen up again.
 
Aaaaaah. It has to be it. The threads/hole in the adjuster are gone? Good catch. How is the snail adjuster held tight so it doesn't move?


 
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I GOT BRAKES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Think it was a combo of that one left front wheel cylinder and the adjustment and now have
decent brakes, at least as good as what I had prior to this quest. Everything has now been gone through and probably did
not need to replace the master cylinder but TRW from Moss is a good unit so that's off the list for years to come. I don't have
to double pump or even more, just a decent pedal and the old girl comes to a stop. Might still consider the disc brake
conversion with pound/dollar exchange still good but keep the original front drum brakes for a future steward of this 100M.
But for right now, just going to clean up my garage which has become a EPA Super Fund site with all the spilled brake fluid
over the past few weeks.

A HUGE "Thank you" to Mezy and kodpkd for all of their constant help and to all the others that tried to help me get my brakes
back and working. This is far and away the best Healey forum available and not sure if I would have got through this without
it. If I had a good Brit car repair guy or shop I probably would have taken the Healey to him (or her) but since there is not
one closer than 2 plus hours, struggled through this on my own. Satisfaction on doing it yourself, but my 75 year old knees
and back have not been happy with me ! Anyway, thanks again y'all !
Mike
 
Ding Ding Ding Ding! Good job.... Success over wonderful British engineering.
What doesn't kill you makes you stronger.
 
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Well done Big H. Glad you got that all sorted

What's next 😃
Got a noisy valve tappet so might look at that but not going to get into anything serious. Beautiful weather here in coastal South Carolina so going to enjoy getting the Healey some sunshine versus stuck in the garage !
 
Thanks to all. I've been following this thread because we have a BN1 that will need the brakes bled soon.

(I avoided all this on my BN4 by going to all discs and a Datsun tandem MC.)
 
Another thing I found about the front brakes. Moss sells two different front brake cylinders, a 7/8 inch and a 1 inch. The smaller the cylinder the farther it will move and the more power it will have for the same pedal movement. 7/8" would improve the front braking power.
AH spares also sells them.
 
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